Doing some Toy Hauler Research - Anyone have any info or experience with these?

[djh3]

Looking at possibly going with a Toy Hauler. Getting close to calling it quits on the job front and relaxing some. We are not looking new, actually, I think I have narrowed it down to a couple of 2015 models. And as luck has it, both are from defunct companies. I think, from the videos and articles I found, that they were built too good and cost more. One is a 32' Evergreen Amped 13' separate garage; the other is a Weekend Warrior 28', but the "garage" area is integral with the living space. So the Spyder would have to be unloaded every time you needed to use that space. The Amped has 5500 gen and other it the 4000. Both are trailers and just inside my 2500 Ram tow capabilities.
Anyone have info or experience with these? The Amped does have 1 slide in living room and no slide on the Weekend Warrior. Issues with slides could give a fellow nightmares.

 

[jchadwi]

While I do not have any personal experience with transporting a Spyder in a toy hauler, I know two people who do. Both have toy hauler travel trailers and they still must use additional ramps in addition to the trailer's ramp door to load/unload their Spyders. The angle on the ramp door is too steep to avoid scraping the nose and hanging up on the reverse actuator bracket. You might want to do a test loading before purchase.

 

[djh3]

I will have to look again, but I believe both; I am looking at having a "beaver tail" type entry, so its sloped at the ramp which should help.

 

[Cobranut]

Many toy-hauler trailers seem to sit quite high, likely because of the holding tanks underneath.
Even with a beavertail, the short ramp door is quite steep, and would likely cause difficulty with a Spyder.

My 28' InTech ICON race trailer is much lower, and has an additional 4' ramp extension on the door. It works great for very low cars and the Spyder.
I plan to haul the Spyder ahead of my racecar, or my Focus if just sightseeing, as I tow with my diesel pusher coach.

 

[Metalman]

I had a toy hauler, pull behind type hitch. We didn't keep it very long because we found that it was not comfortable to spend time in it since it didn't have the amenities that our previous motorhome had. As was mentioned, the ramp was quite steep and I damaged the coolant overflow tank on my Goldwing. I have pulled motorcycles in an enclosed trailer for well over 60,000 miles, using a motorhome. And wouldn't go back to a toy hauler.

 

[djh3]

Approach angle is something I had considered. May have to think of different approach. Maybe back it in vs forward.

 

[Wmoater]

Approach angle with any toy hauler on the market is not a problem. The transition you need to worry about with ramp to bed! I don’t care how steep the ramp is that can be fixed in 5 minutes of work. I have loaded Spyders in my 38’ Fuzion, 24’ work and play and a Rouge that is literally the tallest toy hauler on the market hundreds of times. I have even done it in a Millennium Class G all with no problems. All you need is to make a mini lifting blocks for your rear tires on the truck. Take 4-6 2x10 pieces of wood about 18 inches long. Nail or screw them together. Then cut an angle on the front and back. Place the blocks in front of each rear wheel on the truck and drive up onto them. Raising the rear of the truck 6-8 inches will drop the rear of the toy hauler by over a foot. On my 38’ it’s about 2 feet of drop. Again the ramp angle is not your problem by doing this. If the door is even short your Spyder will go up fine. The transition going from ramp to inside needs to be watched. I’ve seen several bottoms, pipes, and brakes ripped off. An easy transition fix is to screw a 2x4 onto e-track. Run an e-track across the floor just inside the door like little tracks or ramps. When the front tires of the Spyder contact the 2x4, it raises it enough and the center is not raised for the rear giving you a better transition. The etrack can then be used for strapping it down.