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DOES ANYONE KNOW THIS ????

BLUEKNIGHT911

Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
The in-let and out-let size of the 1330 radiators ( for the main rubber hoses ) ..... part numbers I can find, it's the diameter I want ................ and I don't want to pull it off to measure it ( thank you ) .......... Mike :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
Simple

The in-let and out-let size of the 1330 radiators ( for the main rubber hoses ) ..... part numbers I can find, it's the diameter I want ................ and I don't want to pull it off to measure it ( thank you ) .......... Mike :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Measure the outside diameter of the hose. Then use a ruler to measure the wall thickness of the hose. Multiply the wall thickness by 2. Subtract the resulting wall thickness from the outside diameter and you will have the inside diameter.
 
WELLLLLLL NOW THAT YOU MENTION IT

Measure the outside diameter of the hose. Then use a ruler to measure the wall thickness of the hose. Multiply the wall thickness by 2. Subtract the resulting wall thickness from the outside diameter and you will have the inside diameter.
:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ...... Why bother with all that MATH ..... if you have the hose in your hand just measure the diameter of the HOLE :dontknow: .......... I try to operate on the KISS principle, but thanks for the effort :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: ......... Mike :bbq:
 
Don't know. ..!!

I would do like doc said....measure OD, measure hieght x2 of the hose to the neck. Without removing it. My next question is why..? What are you into now..? Need to start working on a mental picture..(we all know why):roflblack:
 
KISS is the way to go

:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ...... Why bother with all that MATH ..... if you have the hose in your hand just measure the diameter of the HOLE :dontknow: .......... I try to operate on the KISS principle, but thanks for the effort :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: ......... Mike :bbq:


The math is simple ( learned it in grade school) that is why I spelled it out for you. You could have answered the question hours ago.
 
:dontknow: Why not visit a stealer & ask, look at a hose they have? No purchase necessary just play dumb:p:2thumbs:
 
WELLLLLLL NOW THAT YOU MENTION IT

:dontknow: Why not visit a stealer & ask, look at a hose they have? No purchase necessary just ask ........ The nearest Dealer is an 85 mile drive round trip .....:banghead: ............. I was hoping someone here would know .... Mike :thumbup:
 
I MUST BE REALLY, REALLY STUPID

Measure the outside diameter of the hose. Then use a ruler to measure the wall thickness of the hose. Multiply the wall thickness by 2. Subtract the resulting wall thickness from the outside diameter and you will have the inside diameter.
:gaah:.... Please explain it to me ..... How can you measure the WALL THICKNESS of the hose ....IF IT'S STILL ATTACHED to the Radiator ...... ?????????????????? ........ Mike :thumbup:
 
PROJECT

I would do like doc said....measure OD, measure hieght x2 of the hose to the neck. Without removing it. My next question is why..? What are you into now..? Need to start working on a mental picture..(we all know why):roflblack:
Sorry but Doc makes no sense.... You can't get that measurement unless you take off the hose .... and if I take off the hose ....I'll JUST MEASURE THE DAMN - HOLE ........................Project plans , I found some super flexible /bendable Heater hose ( like for a car radiator only smaller diameter ) ..... I'm thinking of swapping out the hoses on my 14 RT and using this ..... because it will conduct heat out way better than the thick rubber hoses that are there now ............. Mike :thumbup:
 
:gaah:.... Please explain it to me ..... How can you measure the WALL THICKNESS of the hose ....IF IT'S STILL ATTACHED to the Radiator ...... ?????????????????? ........ Mike [emoji106]
Mike, use the back or long side of the calipers. The point that slides out. (Bottom of the "T") It's designed to measure depth. Slide it down the edge of the hose adjacent to the clamp. [emoji106]
8ab29be05d2d506adae92e05a7fea558.jpg


Or, if there is enough room, slide the calipers down on the radiator neck at the end of the hose?


Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
Project plans , I found some super flexible /bendable Heater hose ( like for a car radiator only smaller diameter ) ..... I'm thinking of swapping out the hoses on my 14 RT and using this ..... because it will conduct heat out way better than the thick rubber hoses that are there now ............. Mike :thumbup:
I think this is a case where reality will lag far behind theory. First I'd be skeptical that the new hose would have a significantly greater heat conductance value. Tie that to a small difference in hose thickness and the conductance won't increase much. Tie that in with the flow rate through the hose, and the heat conductance of the radiator vs. the length of hose, coupled with the fact that much of the hose is in the hot air flow from the radiator, I really the think the net effect on the total heat rejection of the cooling system will be inconsequential. I'd be surprised if the heat rejection by the radiators isn't a thousand times greater than from the surface of the hoses.

Now if you could come up with a system to absolutely control the forward and rearward movement of the rear axle while the nuts are being tightened, then I'd say you're onto something!
 
MEASUREMENT METHOD

Mike, use the back or long side of the calipers. The point that slides out. (Bottom of the "T") It's designed to measure depth. Slide it down the edge of the hose adjacent to the clamp. [emoji106]
8ab29be05d2d506adae92e05a7fea558.jpg


Or, if there is enough room, slide the calipers down on the radiator neck at the end of the hose?


Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
........ Thanks Drew, this makes some sense , however this isn't one of my tools :banghead::banghead::banghead: ...... YET :roflblack: ..... my buddy has one but I can't get up his driveway yet :banghead: ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
PROJECT PLANS

I think this is a case where reality will lag far behind theory. First I'd be skeptical that the new hose would have a significantly greater heat conductance value. Tie that to a small difference in hose thickness and the conductance won't increase much. Tie that in with the flow rate through the hose, and the heat conductance of the radiator vs. the length of hose, coupled with the fact that much of the hose is in the hot air flow from the radiator, I really the think the net effect on the total heat rejection of the cooling system will be inconsequential. I'd be surprised if the heat rejection by the radiators isn't a thousand times greater than from the surface of the hoses.

Now if you could come up with a system to absolutely control the forward and rearward movement of the rear axle while the nuts are being tightened, then I'd say you're onto something!
At this point you are correct - but nothing ventured nothing gained. I have learned that some re-sults occur that at first seem contrary to logic ..... ie making the final drive belt - looser to cancel VIBES - It worked for me :dontknow:. As far as the Hot Radiator Air flowing over the hoses, I think ANY air heated or not is going to have a cooling effect on the thin metal of the new metal hose as opposed to the thick rubber hose ........ Sorry I can't do a link - but E-bay item # 141616562501 is what I'm looking at ( maybe not that color :roflblack: ) ........ Mike :thumbup:
 
At this point you are correct - but nothing ventured nothing gained. I have learned that some re-sults occur that at first seem contrary to logic ..... ie making the final drive belt - looser to cancel VIBES - It worked for me :dontknow:. As far as the Hot Radiator Air flowing over the hoses, I think ANY air heated or not is going to have a cooling effect on the thin metal of the new metal hose as opposed to the thick rubber hose ........ Sorry I can't do a link - but E-bay item # 141616562501 is what I'm looking at ( maybe not that color :roflblack: ) ........ Mike :thumbup:
Thin SS will conduct many, many, times more heat than neoprene so there probably would be a measurable difference as far as heat rejection by the hoses. Keep in mind the thermostat will still keep the water temperature in the engine the same as now. The only benefit I can see is if you are in an area of really high ambient temperatures where the engine, even with thermostat wide open, wants to get hot then the additional cooling from the SS hoses will help. My experience is there is a lot of reserve cooling capacity in the cooling system under normal conditions, even up to 110° ambient. Increasing the capacity doesn't necessarily increase performance, particularly when the performance is controlled well below capacity.
 
water Temps

Thin SS will conduct many, many, times more heat than neoprene so there probably would be a measurable difference as far as heat rejection by the hoses. Keep in mind the thermostat will still keep the water temperature in the engine the same as now. The only benefit I can see is if you are in an area of really high ambient temperatures where the engine, even with thermostat wide open, wants to get hot then the additional cooling from the SS hoses will help. My experience is there is a lot of reserve cooling capacity in the cooling system under normal conditions, even up to 110° ambient. Increasing the capacity doesn't necessarily increase performance, particularly when the performance is controlled well below capacity.
:agree: ..... But recently there was a lot of debate about Water Wetter and other products of that type ...... I pointed out the fact that the Spyder has a Thermostat control etc....... But no-one seemed to get that ...... could be I'm on too many IGNORE lists :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
:agree: ..... But recently there was a lot of debate about Water Wetter and other products of that type ...... I pointed out the fact that the Spyder has a Thermostat control etc....... But no-one seemed to get that ...... could be I'm on too many IGNORE lists :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ..... Mike :thumbup:

Never tried converting rubber hose to metal for the sake of reduced temps. No reason it could not work.

I am in the process of advising my son in law to remove firesleeve wrapped coolant hoses in close proximity to the exhaust on his LS1 powered RX7 and converting to beaded aluminum tubes to prevent hose failure from the heat.

As for water wetter, the product increases the efficency of heat transfer. Using water wetter in a thermostat controlled cooling system may not lower the temps unless the cooling system is not capable to do that, say in a vehicle with radiators that are too small, or a dirt bike with no fans sitting without moving or has mud blocking airflow.

Water Wetter in a properly designed cooling system, that is thermostat controlled does have benefits. The internal surfaces in contact with the coolant may see a more uniform and complete heat transfer that balances temps. Water Wetter enhanced coolant has the ability to transfer heat into the radiators allowing them to work more efficiently. By having a more efficient cooling system, the one key item noticed is the electric fans cycle less while in traffic.

If you consider how most cooling systems are designed, the thermostat is positioned as an outlet to the radiators. However, the cooling system has the ability to bypass the radiators when the thermostat is closed or partially open. While a non Water Wetter system may indicate as an example 200f on a gauge, the Water Wetter enhanced system may also indicate 200f on a gauge. The difference being less water is flowed to the radiators and more is recirculated.

Adding metalic cooling hoses will not increase the coolants efficency, but will increase the cooling system efficency by having more or better thermal transfer capability to cool air. The engines internal means to allow the water to absorb heat will not change by adding metallic hose replacements.

I know clear as mud, but two entirely different processes and criteria to overcome.

As i mentioned Water Wetter in dirt bikes. This application convinced me after my first use, no more coolant coming out the overflow when no air is moving across the radiators.

Mike, if you did increase the cooling systems ability to transfer heat into the air (increased thermal transfer capacity), you might be able to disable one fan, and add a block off panel to one radiator reducing cooling drag to make the Spyder more aerodynamic. That is a lot of inches square of drag.
 
I think this is a case where reality will lag far behind theory. First I'd be skeptical that the new hose would have a significantly greater heat conductance value. Tie that to a small difference in hose thickness and the conductance won't increase much. Tie that in with the flow rate through the hose, and the heat conductance of the radiator vs. the length of hose, coupled with the fact that much of the hose is in the hot air flow from the radiator, I really the think the net effect on the total heat rejection of the cooling system will be inconsequential. I'd be surprised if the heat rejection by the radiators isn't a thousand times greater than from the surface of the hoses.

Now if you could come up with a system to absolutely control the forward and rearward movement of the rear axle while the nuts are being tightened, then I'd say you're onto something!

So what does that come out to in "Dog Years"? :D

​Jack
 
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