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Does anyone know a easy way of removing the ECU on a 2013 STS?
- Thread starter jgroove
- Start date
If your ST's ECU is in basically the same place as my 2013 RT's is, then just Cut the air box & trunking outta there nojoke (a demo saw or sawzall will work well, and give you a LOT of satisfaction too! 
hyea: ) Then when it comes time to button it all up again, simply install your newly acquired JT's Spyder Store Round Air Filter and enjoy!! :2thumbs: ( https://spyderstore.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=50 )
Not only will doing this make accessing the ECU possible, but you'll also end up with better airflow around & over the engine (which helps even more with the 'hot seat' issues than the 2014 Upgrade Panel improvements. :clap: ) but you'll also get better air flow INTO the engine, and that teamed with the ECU Upgrade and a Cat Delete can really make your V-Twin the Spyder power plant it SHOULD have been in your Spyder from the start, and it's still all within the 'proven reliable' parameters that it actually IS when fitted to some other machines! :thumbup:
hyea: ) Then when it comes time to button it all up again, simply install your newly acquired JT's Spyder Store Round Air Filter and enjoy!! :2thumbs: ( https://spyderstore.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=50 )Not only will doing this make accessing the ECU possible, but you'll also end up with better airflow around & over the engine (which helps even more with the 'hot seat' issues than the 2014 Upgrade Panel improvements. :clap: ) but you'll also get better air flow INTO the engine, and that teamed with the ECU Upgrade and a Cat Delete can really make your V-Twin the Spyder power plant it SHOULD have been in your Spyder from the start, and it's still all within the 'proven reliable' parameters that it actually IS when fitted to some other machines! :thumbup:
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I had to completely remove the air trunking across the front of the engine and the 'expansion air-box' thingie (highly technical term that one!!? :dontknow: ) on the LHS before I could remove the machine screws holding the ECU to the frame - IIRC the screws were about 40mm long and the gap remaining between the trunking/exp box & the ECU was only 20mm at best..... so that trunking & air box hadta come completely out. The ECU was almost certainly mounted onto the frame BEFORE the engine & air intake assy was inserted!! And to get the air intake/trunking out, because of how the whole lot is connected, the top of the air cleaner cover & the flexible snout that connects the air cleaner to the trunking & air box hadta come off too!! All that entailed either completely removing the engine & fuel tank, etc; or removing the headlights, undoing the dash/cowling assy behind it, and then lifting & raising the whole head/dash assy from the headlight brackets on up out of the way..... :yikes:
I suspect that the 2013 ECU's are a 'little' harder than most to get out (the 2012's aren't really all that much easier, but from 2014 on, they're basically a PoP!
) because of the frame, mounting positions, & assembly process changes that were made to cater for the 1330 Triple engine size/configuration changes before BRP realised that engine wasn't going to be ready in time so they just jammed the V-Twin engine assy, complete with it's air intake trunking etc back in any old how..... but only once all the loom, ECU & everything else ancillary to that had already been fitted up to the frame..... making some things (like the ECU!) damned near impossible to access &/or remove/replace in the process!! :gaah:
At the time, I swore I'd never try removing a 2013 Spyder ECU again, altho once my hands had largely recovered from the resulting surgery (No, I'm not joking!! I DID say 'resulting surgery'!! :shocked: ) I've done a couple of others using the demo saw method. (What can I say?! I am a bit of a tenacious bugga & obviously also into pain....
) It's just a whole lot quicker, cleaner, and far less traumatic in the long run to use a demo saw, as well as being just a little cathartic!! hyea: Bit messy tho, lotsa black 'placcy dust' left to clean up (but shop air works well!) and you hafta be very careful NOT to touch anything that's not gonna be thrown away!! :shocked:
Good Luck - and be very careful where you put your hands in there - whichever removal approach you decide to use! :thumbup:
I suspect that the 2013 ECU's are a 'little' harder than most to get out (the 2012's aren't really all that much easier, but from 2014 on, they're basically a PoP!
) because of the frame, mounting positions, & assembly process changes that were made to cater for the 1330 Triple engine size/configuration changes before BRP realised that engine wasn't going to be ready in time so they just jammed the V-Twin engine assy, complete with it's air intake trunking etc back in any old how..... but only once all the loom, ECU & everything else ancillary to that had already been fitted up to the frame..... making some things (like the ECU!) damned near impossible to access &/or remove/replace in the process!! :gaah: At the time, I swore I'd never try removing a 2013 Spyder ECU again, altho once my hands had largely recovered from the resulting surgery (No, I'm not joking!! I DID say 'resulting surgery'!! :shocked: ) I've done a couple of others using the demo saw method. (What can I say?! I am a bit of a tenacious bugga & obviously also into pain....
) It's just a whole lot quicker, cleaner, and far less traumatic in the long run to use a demo saw, as well as being just a little cathartic!! hyea: Bit messy tho, lotsa black 'placcy dust' left to clean up (but shop air works well!) and you hafta be very careful NOT to touch anything that's not gonna be thrown away!! :shocked:Good Luck - and be very careful where you put your hands in there - whichever removal approach you decide to use! :thumbup:
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Haven't got an ST handy to confirm, nor a pic of either a standard ST or a standard RT with air intake trunking & ECU in situ for that matter.....
But on my 2013 RT, if you stand in front of the Spyder facing the open frunk, then remove the black cover below the headlight in front of your Right hand (on what would be the Ryder's LEFT hand side) so that you expose the 'remote battery terminal' block under the headlight; the ECU is immediately below & behind that, bolted on to the back of the transverse frame rail that the top of frunk is secured to. The 3 machine screws holding the ECU onto that frame rail are facing forward, towards you at the front of the Spyder, with their heads protruding towards the rear of the Spyder into the very small gap between the frame rail and the air trunking & expansion box..... and in 2 out of the 3, those machine screws that are about 40mm long are close to twice as long as the gap available to unscrew them in to.... AND you have to do this unscrewing into a 'too small of a gap' while working around, under, and behind the remote battery terminal block as well!! :banghead:
So while I'm not 100% sure the ST is identical to the RT in this, I believe it is at least very similar, and in that case, the air intake trunking and expansion box has to come out in order for those 3 screws to be removed. And THAT's where all the troubles begin!! :gaah:
Edit: RT Pics added:-
pic 1 = facing RT Frunk, showing black cover on right that needs to be removed.
pic 2 = after cover removal, looking in to the space below the headlight with 'remote battery terminal' block visible - Red terminal with '+' symbol & extra wire connected on the Left, earth pin on the Right. If you look thru the slot immediately below that Red 'pig-tail' wire, you can see the 'back' (which is actually facing the front of the Spyder:shocked
of where the ECU is bolted in..... but you can't access anything thru there!! :banghead:
But on my 2013 RT, if you stand in front of the Spyder facing the open frunk, then remove the black cover below the headlight in front of your Right hand (on what would be the Ryder's LEFT hand side) so that you expose the 'remote battery terminal' block under the headlight; the ECU is immediately below & behind that, bolted on to the back of the transverse frame rail that the top of frunk is secured to. The 3 machine screws holding the ECU onto that frame rail are facing forward, towards you at the front of the Spyder, with their heads protruding towards the rear of the Spyder into the very small gap between the frame rail and the air trunking & expansion box..... and in 2 out of the 3, those machine screws that are about 40mm long are close to twice as long as the gap available to unscrew them in to.... AND you have to do this unscrewing into a 'too small of a gap' while working around, under, and behind the remote battery terminal block as well!! :banghead:
So while I'm not 100% sure the ST is identical to the RT in this, I believe it is at least very similar, and in that case, the air intake trunking and expansion box has to come out in order for those 3 screws to be removed. And THAT's where all the troubles begin!! :gaah:
Edit: RT Pics added:-
pic 1 = facing RT Frunk, showing black cover on right that needs to be removed.
pic 2 = after cover removal, looking in to the space below the headlight with 'remote battery terminal' block visible - Red terminal with '+' symbol & extra wire connected on the Left, earth pin on the Right. If you look thru the slot immediately below that Red 'pig-tail' wire, you can see the 'back' (which is actually facing the front of the Spyder:shocked
of where the ECU is bolted in..... but you can't access anything thru there!! :banghead:Attachments
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It is kind of difficult to get a pic because it is located behind so much stuff. If you take a look at the pic above the ecu is located directly on the other side of the black panel. You will have to remove the left side panels to access it but what makes it difficult is the gigantic air box that is in the way.
Sent you a fairly long PM Sampi - those I've found have been in the same place as 'shown' above, but as you can 'see' (or can't! ) they are pretty hard to see unless you can really get in there!! :gaah:
Look for the big fat bundle of wiring, which may be easier to find if you can look in, up, and forwards from down low & behind the LH Front wheel! (Got a hoist? :dontknow: ) That red cap you can see in my earlier pic is a good 4-6" above & about 2-3" forward of the top of the ECU, which is bolted forwards onto the back of the outer frame cross piece the block with the red cap is mounted onto - and the ECU itself is about a 6"×4"×1" rectangular block mounted with the 6" width across top bit lying horizontal, so when you are looking up & in from below, you are looking for two bundles of wires plugged into a 6" wide black block..... hard to describe; harder to envision; very hard to actually see.... & possibly bloody hard to get at too!! :dontknow: Sorry!pps:
Just bring it over here & I'll give you a hand - we'll sort it, I promise!! :thumbup: Oh, hang on..... no International travel! . :banghead:
) they are pretty hard to see unless you can really get in there!! :gaah:Look for the big fat bundle of wiring, which may be easier to find if you can look in, up, and forwards from down low & behind the LH Front wheel! (Got a hoist? :dontknow: ) That red cap you can see in my earlier pic is a good 4-6" above & about 2-3" forward of the top of the ECU, which is bolted forwards onto the back of the outer frame cross piece the block with the red cap is mounted onto - and the ECU itself is about a 6"×4"×1" rectangular block mounted with the 6" width across top bit lying horizontal, so when you are looking up & in from below, you are looking for two bundles of wires plugged into a 6" wide black block..... hard to describe; harder to envision; very hard to actually see.... & possibly bloody hard to get at too!! :dontknow: Sorry!
pps:Just bring it over here & I'll give you a hand - we'll sort it, I promise!! :thumbup: Oh, hang on..... no International travel!
. :banghead:
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Have you looked at a " Fiche' " from cheapcycleparts ..... it should show that and all the parts surrounding it ..... Mike :thumbup:
Sampi1099
New member
Sent you a fairly long PM Sampi - those I've found have been in the same place as 'shown' above, but as you can 'see' (or can't!
Look for the big fat bundle of wiring, which may be easier to find if you can look in, up, and forwards from down low & behind the LH Front wheel! (Got a hoist? :dontknow: ) That red cap you can see in my earlier pic is a good 4-6" above & about 2-3" forward of the top of the ECU, which is bolted forwards onto the back of the outer frame cross piece the block with the red cap is mounted onto - and the ECU itself is about a 6"×4"×1" rectangular block mounted with the 6" width across top bit lying horizontal, so when you are looking up & in from below, you are looking for two bundles of wires plugged into a 6" wide black block..... hard to describe; harder to envision; very hard to actually see.... & possibly bloody hard to get at too!! :dontknow: Sorry!
Just bring it over here & I'll give you a hand - we'll sort it, I promise!! :thumbup: Oh, hang on..... no International travel!
Got it Peter and i found it and its out getting ready to ship for reflash. I just ordered my new JT'S airbox and goodbye to the large stock box and all.
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