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Do I just keep pumping with Speed Bleeders until the line fills up?

awinship

New member
I installed speed bleeders today and when I went to bleed the left front brake the brake pedal went all the way to the bottom, no pressure.
Do I just keep pumping till the line fills up?
I watched a video on speed bleeders but I can't reach the guy on his youtube channel. Advise would be appreciated.
 
I put them on my RT last season and they are great. I ordered with the hose and bag and have those hooked up before I open the bleeder.
Just make sure the reservoir under the seat don't empty and you start sucking air into the line, so keep adding fluid in the reservoir as you pump the line. Keep pumping until you see only air-free brake fluid coming from the bleeder. Then tighten it closed and do the other calipers.
 
I installed speed bleeders today and when I went to bleed the left front brake the brake pedal went all the way to the bottom, no pressure.
Do I just keep pumping till the line fills up?
I watched a video on speed bleeders but I can't reach the guy on his youtube channel. Advise would be appreciated.
Well, you should have got some fluid out of it when you pumped it, and you would, yes, keep pumping until you get clear fluid or all the air out of that line!! Just make sure you don't run the reservoir dry! The nice part of the speed bleeders is that you just pump, and the check valve will prevent any air from backing into the line.
 
My experience with Speed Bleeders is not good. They have a coating on the threads to help seal against fluid leakage while bleeding and I find it hard to tell when I have fully closed the bleeder.

I do LIKE the bag and hose they sell for about $6. If you use the stock bleeders with this hose and bag, you can just elevate the bag so the hose is above the bleeder, open the bleeder, and pump away. No air can go back DOWN the hose and you just pump until the fluid is clear, then close the bleeder.
 
I'm confused.

I've bled brakes on my 2014 RSS following the service manual procedure. There is no mention of speed bleeders nor opening and closing the bleeder at the bottom of each stroke. The fluid bled as expected by just pumping the brake pedal, with no fluid returning on the upstroke. In the video you can see fluid rising in the container with no air entering the hose.

20250217_143818.jpg

brake bleeding procedure.jpg

 
You probably have normal type of bleeders like most calipers.
Speedbleeders are smart bleeders that you can buy and replace your standard bleeders with. Here you see the smart thing about them, you can open them a little and not worry about air getting in when you have taken the foot of the pedal.

Hope this was helpful !
View attachment 211893Picture's borrowed from Speebleeders homepage.
 
I'm confused.

I've bleed brakes on my 2014 RSS following the service manual procedure. There is no mention of speed bleeders nor opening and closing the bleeder at the bottom of each stroke. The fluid bled as expected by just pumping the brake pedal, with no fluid returning on the upstroke. In the video you can see fluid rising in the container with no air entering the hose.

Hi Dick,

Sorry, but you missed the 3rd NOTE where it says 'Do not release brake pedal until bleeder has been closed.' This is so air isn't sucked back in through a std. bleed nipple when you release the pedal. This is where Speed Bleeders differ from std. bleed nipples... they have a non-return valve built into them to prevent air being sucked back in.

So, bleeding procedure once an overflow tube and container is fitted to the nipple & the brake fluid reservoir is topped-up is:

For a std. bleed nipple: open nipple 1/2 turn - depress the brake pedal & observe for air bubbles in the overflow tube - hold the pedal down - tighten the nipple - release the brake pedal. Repeat until no air is observed in the overflow tube and ensure you finish the bleed by tightening the nipple after a brake pedal depression & hold.

For a Speed Bleeders: open nipple 1/2 turn - depress the brake pedal & observe for air bubbles in the overflow tube - release the brake pedal. Repeat until no air is observed in the overflow tube and ensure you finish the bleed by tightening the nipple.

Hope this helps.

brake bleeding procedure.jpg
 
I did not miss that. So the advantage to speed bleeders is that you don't need to do the 3rd step. OK, thanks!
 
Wait - OK, thinking more about this, I have a long hose on the bleed nipple, so only fluid would get sucked back in. But it doesn't. It appears that the bleeder does have a check valve. I do notice using a Might Vac that air bubbles do appear, which I assume is being drawn in past the threads of the loose bleeder. That is why I thought Step 3 was necessary, which it would also be necessary with a speed bleeder, no? Not trying to be difficult, just trying to understand.
 
Wait - OK, thinking more about this, I have a long hose on the bleed nipple, so only fluid would get sucked back in. But it doesn't. It appears that the bleeder does have a check valve. I do notice using a Might Vac that air bubbles do appear, which I assume is being drawn in past the threads of the loose bleeder. That is why I thought Step 3 was necessary, which it would also be necessary with a speed bleeder, no? Not trying to be difficult, just trying to understand.

Any fluid in the hose that may be sucked back as the brake pedal is released could contain air in tiny bubbles you can't see. That's why it's best to close the std. bleed nipple while the pedal is down... to eliminate any chance of that happening. Std. bleed nipples do not have check valves.

Yes, it's theoretically possible for air to be drawn in past the threads (another reason to close a std. bleed nipple with the pedal depressed) but it's unlikely since the threads are a bit like a labyrinth seal & any air coming back into the system will take the path of least resistance... in this case the hole thru' the bleed nipple. A Mity Vac may pull air past the threads, so minimise the chance by only unscrewing the nipple just enough to let fluid through.

Air past the threads is more likely with Speed Bleeders and that's why they have that sealant on the threads... to minimise that chance.
 
Just a little heads up. You need a second person to help with bleeding the brakes. This is for the 'factory bleeers'.

Using the 'Speed Bleeders' you can do the job by yourself.

Just be sure to keep the reservoir full of brake fluid. I hope this clears up some confusion.
 
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