DIY for Elka stage 1 +R?

[Ryblueyez]

Does anyone know of a do it yourself or step by step for installing the Elka Stage 1+R on a Spyder RT-S? I bought my shocks used from a member on here and an new to mechanics and the spyder world lol.

 

[CyncySpyder]

Teddy would like to Welcome you to the SpyderHood & he dug this up for you

Teddy likes to remind ppl that the SEARCH ENGINE is our friend, and using it, he found the following installation thread (Compliments of SteveMac) for you and hope that it helps :2thumbs:

 

[Ryblueyez]

Teddy likes to remind ppl that the SEARCH ENGINE is our friend, and using it, he found the following installation thread (Compliments of SteveMac) for you and hope that it helps :2thumbs:

Teddy's installation link was an invalid Web address lol

 

[Bob Denman]

Popping the shocks out is not really all that tough of a job (I managed to do it with almost NO bloodshed! :shocked
First; you'll need some 15mm wrenches or sockets. Getting to the bottom shock mount bolts is easy; I used a 1/2"drive socket on one side, and an open end wrench on the other.
The top is a bit "tight" I used a 3/8" drive up there, and a bit snorter, more compact open-end wrench.
Get the nuts off the ends of the bolts first...
Then; jack the bike up so that the wheels are JUST off the ground...
Supporting the wheel with your knees,feet, or a friend's helping hands; get the bolt out of the lower mount. I used a rubber mallet for a bit of persuasion...
The top one should be nice and easy to pull out now...
Your OEM shock is now rattling around in there like the metal ball in a pinball machine... wiggle it around until you can figure out the best way to get it out of there... It'll come out; it just takes getting your tongue just right... nojoke
The springs on the OEMs are at the top. When you mount the Elkas; the springs will be at the bottom.. :lecturef_smilie: this is VERY important!
Get them stuffed up in where the shocks should be ( A bit of a wrestling match...), and get the top bolt through...
Now... get the lower mount and lower end of the shock lined up (This is when having a friend to help is really useful!), and slip the bott through
Get your nuts in order... tighten them up; re-check them! and you're ready for the road! :thumbup:

 

[CyncySpyder]

My bad = = = = here ya go - Again, compliments of SteveMac

Teddy's installation link was an invalid Web address lol

[h=2]

Elka Shocks Install[/h]

I purchased the Elka front shocks for my 2010 RT (Thanks Len in Cowtown and John from Elka) and I installed them yesterday. The install is very easy if you have some patience with the two top mount bolts. Having the right tools makes all the difference. Here is my rundown on the install.

1. Spoke with John at Elka. Gave him my weight and my wife since I rYde two-up at least half the time. He recommend the 325# spring setup (yes, I am a big boy...)
2. The shocks arrived packaged very well. The instructions leave a bit to be desired, there wasn't Spyder specific instructions, but there really isn't much you can mess up (unless you install upside down!)
3. I also had the shock guards to install, so I had to remove the pre-load adjuster to do so. Simply loosen the set screw on the adjuster with the allen wrench supplied with your shocks, Then use the adjustment tool (also supplied) to back off the nut. Be sure you measure your spring compression before removing the nut, so you can set your pre-load the same upon re-install. I inserted a large phillips screwdriver into the mounting hole to keep the shock from spinning while I removed and reinstalled the pre-load adjuster.
4. I installed the new pre-load adjuster cap with the three bolt holes (used to affix the shock guard) and re-tightened the adjuster ring. My shocks were set to a compression of 9". I kept that setting.
5. When re-installing the pre-load, I made sure my Elkas mounting holes top and bottom were facing the same direction, I also made sure the valve for the gas charge pointed up, and that my shock guards were installed so that when I bolted the shocks on, the guard came up through the A-Frame, protecting the shock shaft from rocks and debris. Do a trial fit and you will see how they need to be installed, or see pics below.
6. After installing the shock guard and re-tensioning the pre-load, you are ready to begin installation.
7. You will need a 3/8" ratchet (longer for leverage if you have it) with a 15mm shallow well socket and a 15mm combination wrench. These tools and a floor jack is really all you need.
8. Jack up the Spyder to relieve some tension. Remove the 15mm retaining bolts from top and bottom. You may find that you need to raise/lower the Spyder to find the point at which the bolts can be removed by hand. Don't try to beat them out with a hammer! Just find the sweet spot by raising or lowering your jack and the bolts will slip out by hand easily. If you have to tap them, be sure to finger tighten the nut onto the bolt and tap with a dead blow hammer if you have one. The old shocks will slip out through the A-Frame after the bolts have been removed.
9. Install the Elkas making sure the damping knob is on the bottom. You should be able to see in the pics below how they should mount.
10. Tighten all bolts to specified torque (I used mechanics feel) since I didn't have a torque wrench and then lower Jack. You will notice right away that your Spyder sits a bit higher (depending upon your preload)
11. Adjust the damping knobs on the bottom to the same setting on each shock, reading your manual for clockwise counter-clockwise settings. There is no magic setting, just set to your preference as long as both are the same. I tried the extremes of most-least rebound (you have approximately 50 clicks of adjustment to play with) I finally settled on the highest rebound setting backed off 20 clicks. Again nothing magic, just ended up being the setting that felt the best to me. I took rough, curvy roads and stopped frequently to adjust the knobs. Very easy.

I hope these steps help you install your Elkas. I test rode mine several miles yesterday and a much longer two-up rYde today. The change in rYde was SIGNIFICANT. And significant in a very good way. I highly recommend the shocks, especially if you have a 2010 RT like mine.


Enjoy the rYde!

​

 

[Bob Denman]

Was Teddy playing with the Weblinks again???

 

[Ryblueyez]

Popping the shocks out is not really all that tough of a job (I managed to do it with almost NO bloodshed! :shocked
First; you'll need some 15mm wrenches or sockets. Getting to the bottom shock mount bolts is easy; I used a 1/2"drive socket on one side, and an open end wrench on the other.
The top is a bit "tight" I used a 3/8" drive up there, and a bit snorter, more compact open-end wrench.
Get the nuts off the ends of the bolts first...
Then; jack the bike up so that the wheels are JUST off the ground...
Supporting the wheel with your knees,feet, or a friend's helping hands; get the bolt out of the lower mount. I used a rubber mallet for a bit of persuasion...
The top one should be nice and easy to pull out now...
Your OEM shock is now rattling around in there like the metal ball in a pinball machine... wiggle it around until you can figure out the best way to get it out of there... It'll come out; it just takes getting your tongue just right... nojoke
The springs on the OEMs are at the top. When you mount the Elkas; the springs will be at the bottom.. :lecturef_smilie: this is VERY important!
Get them stuffed up in where the shocks should be ( A bit of a wrestling match...), and get the top bolt through...
Now... get the lower mount and lower end of the shock lined up (This is when having a friend to help is really useful!), and slip the bott through
Get your nuts in order... tighten them up; re-check them! and you're ready for the road! :thumbup:

I'm hoping to try and install these today. Are there any tips or tricks as far as adjusting them? I bought them used from a member on here and I just want to make sure I get the proper adjustments

 

[Bob Denman]

You'll have two adjustments available: Preload, and rebound damping...
YOu'll need to ride the bike a bit, once you've put them on. This'll give you a chance to formulate some opinions on what; if anything, needs changing.
Preload...
There's a knurled ring around the top of the spring "pocket". Using that to lengthen the spring, will make the suspension softer. I found that about three full turns on it is worth 1/4" inch of preload. Measure the Spring length before you start twisting stuff... it'll make it easier to get back to where you started, should the need arise...
Rebound...
You might want to PM SteveMac about that; he's whiz with them, and mine were so good, that I never ever had to touch that little knob... pps: