Ok, I haven't had my Spyder long so I haven't learned all the bells and whistles yet, but I hear people talking about the digital gas guage being more accurate then the old school guage. I have looked all over the screen and scrolled through the menu and haven't ever seen the digital guage. I have an RT-S. Is it only on certain models? Any hints?
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Digital fuel guage
- Thread starter TFD29
- Start date
paulbrinker
New member
After you first turn the key on and push the mode button, on the sides of your screen the fuel digital fuel gage and temperature gage will flash briefly. The only way to use them is to disconnect the old school gages. I am told that Can-Am is aware of this. In my opinion, when you pay this much for a bike you should not have to disconnect gages to make others work. Enjoy your ride.
SpyderAnn01
Active member
If you disconnect the analog gauges you will get the digital gauges on the display. They are absolutely more accurrate. I do agree that at the price of the RT the gauges should work but I gave up on gas gauges after 3 replacements. You can replace the analog gauges with voltmeters and oil pressure gauges.
There is a thread on how to disconnect the gauges. It is simple to do.
There is a thread on how to disconnect the gauges. It is simple to do.
HedonismBot
New member
Here's the thread to learn how to disconnect:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?17899-Analogue-temp-and-fuel-gagues-disconnect
Remember to turn your handlebars as far to the left or the right before trying to pull out the dash. It really is a very simple procedure. Just read the whole thread and you should be fine.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?17899-Analogue-temp-and-fuel-gagues-disconnect
Remember to turn your handlebars as far to the left or the right before trying to pull out the dash. It really is a very simple procedure. Just read the whole thread and you should be fine.
CyncySpyder
Teddys favorite human
The round analogue gauges are actually considered an Up-Grade Option
I believe on the base RT you don't have the analogue gauges, just blanks in the two pod spaces. On the upper trim levels, you also get the Analogue Gauges which are not very good:lecturef_smilie: hence the reason most of us unplug them and put something more accurate and useful in their places.
As the other poster stated, they will NOT show up on your screen unless you unplug both of the Analogue gauges, then they will show on the LCD with the left side being your Temp. which toggles with your Electonic Suspension readout when you push the adjustment button and the right side will be the more accurate fuel gauge toggling with your Audio Volume display when you make changes to your Audio Volume.
IMHO, they both seem to be much more accurate, but be forwarned, the digital fuel gauge can take time to learn and understand how it works. Meaning, when I first fill up, it will show all the bars being full and will usually stay that way for around 35-50 miles before the first bar goes down, but then once that first bar is gone, the rest start to disappear very quickly, loosing about 1 bar for every 10-20 miles maybe. It has to do with the float-sensor used and the fuel tank being larger at the top and smaller at the bottom, if that makes any sense. We still like it much better than the analogue gauge and we've made good use of the extra dash space & power by installing our Teddy-Cam and also a Ram-Mounted Cup holder:thumbup:
This mod is very easy to do, as all you have to do is remove the 4 bolts holding the dash bezel in place, pull out the bezel exposing the back side of the analogue gauges, and disconnect the BRP wiring harnesses, stuff them back into the hole, put the dash back together and when you next start-up the byke, they should be showing on the Left & Right sides of the LCD:2thumbs:
I believe on the base RT you don't have the analogue gauges, just blanks in the two pod spaces. On the upper trim levels, you also get the Analogue Gauges which are not very good:lecturef_smilie: hence the reason most of us unplug them and put something more accurate and useful in their places.
As the other poster stated, they will NOT show up on your screen unless you unplug both of the Analogue gauges, then they will show on the LCD with the left side being your Temp. which toggles with your Electonic Suspension readout when you push the adjustment button and the right side will be the more accurate fuel gauge toggling with your Audio Volume display when you make changes to your Audio Volume.
IMHO, they both seem to be much more accurate, but be forwarned, the digital fuel gauge can take time to learn and understand how it works. Meaning, when I first fill up, it will show all the bars being full and will usually stay that way for around 35-50 miles before the first bar goes down, but then once that first bar is gone, the rest start to disappear very quickly, loosing about 1 bar for every 10-20 miles maybe. It has to do with the float-sensor used and the fuel tank being larger at the top and smaller at the bottom, if that makes any sense. We still like it much better than the analogue gauge and we've made good use of the extra dash space & power by installing our Teddy-Cam and also a Ram-Mounted Cup holder:thumbup:
This mod is very easy to do, as all you have to do is remove the 4 bolts holding the dash bezel in place, pull out the bezel exposing the back side of the analogue gauges, and disconnect the BRP wiring harnesses, stuff them back into the hole, put the dash back together and when you next start-up the byke, they should be showing on the Left & Right sides of the LCD:2thumbs:
Bob Denman
New member
Soooo... what do we do with all of the space in those pods? Can they be removed completely? Having a couple of "speaker boxes" on the dash with worthless gauges just taking up space just seems...wrong!
CyncySpyder
Teddys favorite human
Yes Bob, they can be removed completely & replaced w/whatever, see pics posted above
When you go to unhook the BRP wiring harnesses from them, there are just two sets of bolts/Nuts that have to be removed and then the gauges slide right out. Many have replaced them with other "Digital" gauges among countless other things, like Teddy had me do. It would be nice if the empty holes were large enough for a set of speakers, but alas, they are not, that I'm aware of. For that, you'd be required to cut out a large enough hole yourself from the black plastic dash bezel and even then, I'm not sure there would be enough room "behind" the bezel (once replaced) to fit the speakers into. At least I haven't seen anyone make this mod yet :shocked:
When you go to unhook the BRP wiring harnesses from them, there are just two sets of bolts/Nuts that have to be removed and then the gauges slide right out. Many have replaced them with other "Digital" gauges among countless other things, like Teddy had me do. It would be nice if the empty holes were large enough for a set of speakers, but alas, they are not, that I'm aware of. For that, you'd be required to cut out a large enough hole yourself from the black plastic dash bezel and even then, I'm not sure there would be enough room "behind" the bezel (once replaced) to fit the speakers into. At least I haven't seen anyone make this mod yet :shocked:
Bob Denman
New member
As long as the entire pod can be removed... :2thumbs:
Thanks Dave!
Thanks Dave!
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
Good information above on the fuel gauge "issue". I have disconnected the gauges on both my RT's (2010 and 2011). It is much more accurate--once you see how they work as Cincy said.
On mine, the low fuel light comes on when there are about 2 bars left, if you ride it until 1 bar is showing it will take about 5 gallons to fill up.
I like the fact that there is no needle to fluctuate all over the place giving you the I am going to run out of gas fears.
My usual rant: BRP should fix this iissue. Better gauges, or add two other gauges that actually work. There was an active thread with more information going yesterday about this subject.
On mine, the low fuel light comes on when there are about 2 bars left, if you ride it until 1 bar is showing it will take about 5 gallons to fill up.
I like the fact that there is no needle to fluctuate all over the place giving you the I am going to run out of gas fears.
My usual rant: BRP should fix this iissue. Better gauges, or add two other gauges that actually work. There was an active thread with more information going yesterday about this subject.
bullant12
New member
All RT's. I have a 2010 A&C and pulled the gauges. Replaced them with a voltmeter and a iPhone RAM mount.
schnauzermom
New member
OMG...
I am 61yrs and a female, after reading prior posts on how to disconnect analog gauges, thought I would give it a try. I DID IT!!! So easy, been wanting to go digital since I got my RT in March. Thanks to you all for sharing your knowledge....this forum is awesome!!
I am 61yrs and a female, after reading prior posts on how to disconnect analog gauges, thought I would give it a try. I DID IT!!! So easy, been wanting to go digital since I got my RT in March. Thanks to you all for sharing your knowledge....this forum is awesome!!
BitSlayer
New member
Here is a post about what I am looking at. I have a couple of questions about them on this post:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?42474-Electrical-and-Oil-Pressure-Gauges
They look nice and would fit my needs well, but the water does concern me.
SpyderBOBA2013RTLimited
New member
So to all on this thread, I have a 2013 RT Limited and right now neither my analog or digital gas gauge work right now, and you say that there is no way that the both should both work at the same time, and that if I want the Digital Gas Gauge to work I have to disconnect the analog gas gauge ? I assumed that both would work on the bike, I also have a analog temp gauge and you say to see that on Digital I would have to disconnect the analog gauge, the analog temp gauge does currently work.
ldpost: . Sorry SBob, but this is a waaaaayyyy old post (last entry before yours, 2012! :shocked: ) so it's extremely unlikely that besides the couple of 'still active' posters who are still around, you'll get a response from the others. It always pays to check the date on the FIRST post in any thread you want to reply to, aaaand then, even if you don't exactly 'read' it all, at least skim thru the responses to see what's been going on since. 
As for your question, yes, to get the digital gauges to work, you must disconnect BOTH the analogue temp & gas gauges before the digital gauges will work - your only OE option is to run both digital gauges, or both of the analogue gauges! :lecturef_smilie: Sorry, but that's the way these things were made!
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SpyderBOBA2013RTLimited
New member
As for your question, yes, to get the digital gauges to work, you must disconnect BOTH the analogue temp & gas gauges before the digital gauges will work - your only OE option is to run both digital gauges, or both of the analogue gauges! :lecturef_smilie: Sorry, but that's the way these things were made!
Ok, thanks so I am really ok with the analog gauges, guess I need to look for threads on why the analog gauge does not register the fuel level , maybe in the sending unit, I wouldn't think there is a fuse to check that controls the analog gauge, but maybe there is .
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