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Did the Newest Software Tweak Fix The Heat on the 2013's?

Dan McNally

New member
I just got back from an 80 mile ride at mostly freeway speeds. Last year, after a ride that far, my glove box would be hot, and if I lifted the seat, the heat coming up from the place where the seat latch is, would be hot enough to burn skin . . . today, it was just warm air! Now, it was only in the high 50's, low 60's for my ride, but this is encouraging!
 
That sounds just like my bike, same issues. I haven't had my update performed yet. Hope I see good results like you are seeing. I was also thinking about deleting the CAT. I only have 1500 miles and I haven't ridden yet this year. LOTS OF DAMN POT HOLES AND LOTS OF ROAD SALT. Hopefully get out this weekend.
 
Jury is still out with me. I did have one day about a week or so ago that it got up into the mid 80s. My ambient temp gauge was reading 100 degrees. (whatever that guage is that reads the temp inside) and I was not experiencing the heat from my corbin gas door like I had before the bulletin was performed. The ole "black torch hole" was still hotter than hell, but the area where you were describing was much cooler to me.

I'm gonna wait though till we get temps in the mid to upper 90s before I really give my seal of approval.

Chris
 
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I'm having similar results...before the service bulletin gas cap way too hot ...now warm to touch....the air around that area is not as hot.....we'll see...I'm keeping a positive attitude....I so want this 2013 ST to run right
 
My 2014 right grille mod has solved my hot foot issue. I do notice the bike runs a little different but temps have not been high enough to say for sure. I solved the gas cap and backbone heat issues ,as well as the glove box, with the added insulation I did I am sure you saw the pics or just go to my album. The BRP foam on the plastic around the cap area really helped. My only worry is what is the heat doing to the plastic and rubber inside the Tupperware. I do not think any software will totally resolve the 2013 issues due to rearranging the guts on a 2014 frame. They should have just waited till the engine was ready before switching frames and component positions IMHO. The 2013 may very well be the ugly duck of the Spyders and I still think BRP should be giving us added incentives to trade up since their engineers failed us.
 
Yes.

We have ridden in the 75-90 degree range the last 2 weeks after having the latest recall and I feel there is an improvement in perceived temps. Also improved consistent operating in low speed 12-20 mph range.
 
I'm having similar results...before the service bulletin gas cap way too hot ...now warm to touch....the air around that area is not as hot.....we'll see...I'm keeping a positive attitude....I so want this 2013 ST to run right

Me, too, Charlyne . . . I really want this baby to work well . . . lots of long trips coming up, with the big one being a ride to Tucson AZ and back, in April of 2015 . . . now that I'm retired, its time to do all the fun things I passed on while working and raising a family!
 
I am really glad to hear some of us are having good results so far. I will be getting my update soon I hope.
 
Yep I'm going to hold all judgment till the summertime temps return, however the bike is running way better now than when it was new. Now to see if my dealer can come up with an answer to why it's puking fuel out the evap canister vent. Dropped it off yesterday and have heard nothing so far.
 
I just got back from an 80 mile ride at mostly freeway speeds. Last year, after a ride that far, my glove box would be hot, and if I lifted the seat, the heat coming up from the place where the seat latch is, would be hot enough to burn skin . . . today, it was just warm air! Now, it was only in the high 50's, low 60's for my ride, but this is encouraging!
I have ridden about 300 miles with the 2013-9 update. My :spyder:seems to me to have more pep, less heat radiation, and less vibration with the installation of a SmoothSpyder belt tensioner. If you have not had the update done, I would highly recommend that you do so. It is free, and it really does make a difference. All it takes is some of your time.
 
Just got my 2013 RT Limited out of winter storage today. Dealer said all the updates were made, and I had them install a fan can and blocking plate. Rode 40 miles at highway speeds with air temps in the high 60's, and the radiant heat under the seat was nothing like I'd ever felt before. I am NOT looking forward to this summer if it continues. So, I came to SpyderLovers and went looking for a thread discussing this issue and I'm hoping I found one. Can anyone tell me if this is something you've experienced, and if you fixed it how you did? Thanks.
 
I just got back from an 80 mile ride at mostly freeway speeds. Last year, after a ride that far, my glove box would be hot, and if I lifted the seat, the heat coming up from the place where the seat latch is, would be hot enough to burn skin . . . today, it was just warm air! Now, it was only in the high 50's, low 60's for my ride, but this is encouraging!

I guess I am the odd man out on this. I never thought the heat was a big deal on my 2013 RT-S but after the update the heat is worse and starting to get painful on the chestnuts. I have heat radiating from under the front of the seat now and the glove box is so hot I won't put my phone or camera in there. Any suggestions?
 
I had the update performed two weeks ago. My Spyder runs much better. It is definitely smoother and feels more peppy. I am always careful when I fill the tank. I took a 200 mile ride yesterday. Temperature was in the upper 70s. My seat was getting uncomfortably hot the last 50 miles and there was considerable heat coming from area between the compartment and the front of the seat. Most of the ride was highway and the temperature gage was in the middle of the scale. I could smell gas as I rode back into town and waited at stop lights. I pulled into the driveway and went inside. I came back out 5 minutes later and there was a puddle under my Spyder. I got down on the ground and there was gas on the end of the vent tube and you could see the gas vapor coming from the vent tube. I got my laser heat gun and took some temperature readings. The seat was 126 degrees. I took the gas cap off and got a reading of 140 inside the gas tank then I got down and checked the catalytic converter and it was 476 degrees. I am convinced that the vapor and gas puddle was caused by the heat and the evap canister being saturated. I am very disappointed.


I will be making an appointment to go back to the dealer to get my canister replaced.
 
I would recommend a canisterectomy (which the dealer is not likely to do) and removing the cat and putting in a y-pipe and replacing the air box with JT's air filter. Just doing the air filter cooled my wife's RT down and we are convinced the cat delete will make it even cooler. The canister system seems to bexa very poor design and have not seen anyone here regret removing it.
 
I've put like 1000 miles on the spyder......after update completed.....the gas cap is cooler....have not had boiling gas or gas smell......temps in low 80's.....waiting for 2014 air-flow panels to arrive....hoping that improves air-intake and cools even more
 
I have ridden about 300 miles with the 2013-9 update. My :spyder:seems to me to have more pep, less heat radiation, and less vibration with the installation of a SmoothSpyder belt tensioner. If you have not had the update done, I would highly recommend that you do so. It is free, and it really does make a difference. All it takes is some of your time.

Where can I find out more about what's in the 2013-9 update?
 
I would recommend a canisterectomy (which the dealer is not likely to do) and removing the cat and putting in a y-pipe and replacing the air box with JT's air filter. Just doing the air filter cooled my wife's RT down and we are convinced the cat delete will make it even cooler. The canister system seems to bexa very poor design and have not seen anyone here regret removing it.
You may be right but when you pay this much you should not have spend a lot more money and time to fix BRP's design flaws. I have ridden several Hondas and never had to do anything except regular maintenance. BRP needs to get it's act together and make this right.
 
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