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Dealership said don’t use 8mm spark plug wires
- Thread starter Stridersr7
- Start date
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Recommendation
If you don't believe what Ron just said ( and I said in post #14 ) I don't think anything anyone will say can convince you :dontknow: ..................but then if you are one of the many people who don't read all the posts in a Thread ....there is only one cure for that ........ Mike :thumbup:
Little Blue
SpyderLovers Ambassador
Thermal Paste
Most 'NAPA' parts stores have the Thermal Paste in stock. :thumbup: You can order it on line from various sources by the way.:lecturef_smilie:
Most 'NAPA' parts stores have the Thermal Paste in stock. :thumbup: You can order it on line from various sources by the way.:lecturef_smilie:
GearHd
New member
I have no clue what you're talking about. I'm not disputing that you need the thermal paste, I was merely asking for a supplier or brand of thermal paste. I did read all the comments, you need to read all the WORDS.
I see now that BajaRon's kits include the paste so I'd be all set seeing I'll just order the kit from him when I'm ready.
GearHd
New member
And thank you for that, it actually answers my question. I'll look there.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
CLEAR MEANINGS
You asked for a " recommendation ", my understanding of that word isn't " WHERE DO YOU BUY THIS STUFF " . When a person talks in CODE :lecturef_smilie: ...it's hard to figure out what they are saying :dontknow: ..........Mike :thumbup:
BajaRon
Well-known member
You can get it on line, at some automotive parts stores and pretty much any place that sells electronics or computer gear.
Even Wal-Mart sells it!
I get a great deal on the small packets I include because I purchase several hundred at a time. So I am able to include this with my spark plug kits without adding much to the total cost.
If you get yours from one of these suggested locations you will most likely get much more than you need. So be very sparing with it. A very thin cote of Thermal Paste on all but the last 2 threads (at the electrode end, is all you need. It's not 'A Little Is Good so More Must Be Better' thing!
Sorry to make such a big deal about such a simple thing. Just a lot of misunderstanding out there on this subject.
Good Luck!
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GearHd
New member
You can get it on line, at some automotive parts stores and pretty much any place that sells electronics or computer gear.
Even Wal-Mart sells it!
You'll most likely get much more than you need so be very sparing with it. A very thin cote of Thermal Paste on all but the last 2 threads (at the electrode end, is all you need. It's not 'A Little Is Good so More Must Be Better' thing!
Sorry to make such a big deal about such a simple thing. Just a lot of misunderstanding out there on this subject.
Good Luck!
Excellent reply, thank you! I didn't realise that your kits included the stuff and I fully plan on buying the stuff from you. I won't really need the stuff until the end of this season when I anticipate hitting that 14k mile mark. Thanks again.
Yazz
MOgang Member
When I first got my GS/RS, stock with the dual Two Bros, it had impressive back-fires on deceleration. I put the juice box in and the back-fires stopped.
It's up to you what you do, ride it for a while and decide if you want to put the juice box back in. My mechanic told me to let the engine breath, install a K&N filter.
The Juice Box is a O2 sensor that replaces the OEM O2 sensor on the rear of the exhaust pipes.
https://www.amazon.com/Two-Brothers-Racing-001-283-Controller/dp/B009L90V1E
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BajaRon
Well-known member
:thumbup:
Not a problem. I know I am a vendor but I try hard to educate and not push my stuff. Where anyone gets their gear is 100% their own business. If I can help someone get it right the 1st time that's the most important thing. Whether they get it from me or somewhere else.
And, in the interest of ...
:bdh:
... here is some more interesting information on the subject.
This first video is just for demonstration purposes. It is a Rotax promotional to get you to purchase an account. I'm not trying to push their service here. But the video does make a very good point in regards to this Thermal Paste or Heat Transfer issue.
Listen carefully to his last words. As his voice fades out he is saying that the thermal paste helps keep the spark plug within it's engineered heat range. Very important!
This 2nd video gives a pretty good demonstration of what you're actually trying to achieve with the Thermal Paste application. This guy is (I think) overly conservative. I would get the thermal paste within 2 threads of the electrode. The idea being NOT to get any ON the electrode.
Not trying to beat anyone up with all of this. Just putting information out there so everyone can make an informed decision. No one knows it all. But together, with everyone pitching in what they do know. We can make life better for all of us!
Have a Great Day everyone!
Not a problem. I know I am a vendor but I try hard to educate and not push my stuff. Where anyone gets their gear is 100% their own business. If I can help someone get it right the 1st time that's the most important thing. Whether they get it from me or somewhere else.
And, in the interest of ...
:bdh:
... here is some more interesting information on the subject.
This first video is just for demonstration purposes. It is a Rotax promotional to get you to purchase an account. I'm not trying to push their service here. But the video does make a very good point in regards to this Thermal Paste or Heat Transfer issue.
Listen carefully to his last words. As his voice fades out he is saying that the thermal paste helps keep the spark plug within it's engineered heat range. Very important!
This 2nd video gives a pretty good demonstration of what you're actually trying to achieve with the Thermal Paste application. This guy is (I think) overly conservative. I would get the thermal paste within 2 threads of the electrode. The idea being NOT to get any ON the electrode.
Not trying to beat anyone up with all of this. Just putting information out there so everyone can make an informed decision. No one knows it all. But together, with everyone pitching in what they do know. We can make life better for all of us!
Have a Great Day everyone!
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Very good info. Thanks!
jroberts650
New member
I actually made my own plug wires and they work great. My local Autozone had a set of Accel 8mm plug wires on clearance that I picked up for $20. Got home and cut 2 wires the length of the stock ones and crimped the ends on. Works great. Seems to run better too. They look identical to BajaRons
BajaRon
Well-known member
Look into the wire you are using before going this route. Not to say it won't work. But most of the wire kits that you find are simply glorified OEM wires. They look just like my wire sets on the outside (because they may be). But they are very different where it counts (the part you can't see).
In other words. If the wire has a carbon core center conductor, they are really no better than the OEM wires in many respects. A better OEM version, perhaps. But you still have the primary issue. The problematic carbon core.
Carbon core wires are made with compressed graphite (like in your pencil). Fragile and typically 1,500 ohm's of power robbing resistance per foot. Add about 5,000 ohm's of resistance in the spark plug and that's a lot of power loss!
Compare this to the 50 ohm's of resistance per foot in helically wound, solid core wires that I use. A lot more voltage reaches the spark plug and the solid wire core does not break down. It's easier on your coils as well. Though coils are not a big failure item on the Spyder.
Helically wound wires are a lot more expensive to make and that's why manufacturers send their vehicles out with carbon core wires. Carbon core is cheap and will do the job for awhile. Still, I think my wire kits are competitively priced with the OEM sets from BRP.
BRP OEM wire sets will typically last between 15k & 25k. My wire sets will go at least 50k and many have gone much further.
Like many things. Spark plug wires seem simple. But in reality. The difference can be great and it's hidden where you can't see it.
There are a lot of great articles about this on the Internet. Here is one. If you want to skip the details and get to the crux of the matter. Scroll down to Spark Plug Wire Anatomy
and then scroll down to 'Finally, there’s the core.' just a few more lines down.
Happy Reading!
http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/10/09/how-to-choose-spark-plug-wires-for-your-vehicle/
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Easy Rider
New member
Carbon wires were originally designed to cut down on RFI from the wires.
IF.....you use AM radio or CB a lot, you might not be happy changing to solid wires.
Ben Burped
New member
Good Point
Ron, Do you use a CB or listen to AM radio on your Spyder ? I anticipate that any form of radio isn't listened to on Ron's Spyder unless it comes from his phone. Ron ? Truth or dare time. Share with all of us.
Ron, Do you use a CB or listen to AM radio on your Spyder ? I anticipate that any form of radio isn't listened to on Ron's Spyder unless it comes from his phone. Ron ? Truth or dare time. Share with all of us.
BajaRon
Well-known member
There are solid core wires, and then there are solid core wires. This opens up a whole new aspect of ignition wires, but it is worth addressing.
In the olden days all ignition wires were pretty much like any other electrical wire. After all. You just needed to get an electrical charge from one place to another. The best way to do this was with a solid metal core (usually copper) surrounded by an insulator to keep it from shorting out. This worked really well until they started putting radios in cars. (AM, is very susceptible to electrical noise). So the engineers went looking for a solution.
Electromagnetic Interference (EMI) sometimes called Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) (which is simply EMI within the radio bandwidth) is naturally generated when a spark plug system is fired. You are essentially creating a very loud electromagnetic transmitter.
Later, car computers came along which can be even more susceptible to EMI than a radio, and the problem got worse. Manufacturers, looking for a good, cheap solution, settled on carbon core wires. Enough spark arrived at the spark plug to do the job, and the EMI issue was solved through very high electrical resistance.
Still, a solid metal core wire was much superior to the carbon core wire in every way except for the EMI issues. So, how to get back to the advantages of a solid, metal core wire without the EMI issues? This is where Spiral or Hectically Wound ignition wire comes in. By taking a very small solid copper alloy wire and winding it tightly around a special center material, then surrounding it with special shielding. All the advantages of a solid, metal core wire could be achieved and EMI could be reduced to levels even lower than produced by carbon core wires.
Though this wire is more expensive to make. It lasts at least twice as long, delivers much more electrical energy to the spark plug, and the EMI suppression is at least as good as a carbon core wire.
So, no worries with the right kind of 'Solid Core' wires. In fact. Some have gone to these solid core wires to resolve radio or computer issues.
I do not listen to the radio or use a CB on my Spyder. But I can tell you that I have a lot of customers using my wire who do. Maybe one of them will reply.
The manufacturers of the wire I use in my kits claims that EMI will be less than with OEM carbon core wires. If my wire kits were creating EMI issues there is no doubt I woudl have heard about it long ago. I've been selling these wire kits since 2008.
All good questions though. It's important to know as much about a product as you can to avoid getting something you won't be happy with.
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RudyB
New member
BajaRon
Well-known member
If the demand were high enough I might start carrying these! :roflblack:
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