• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Dealer service calls for new rear tire & brake pads - does this sound right?

Trick idea someone else here mentioned. If you are towing a trailer carry a handheld laser temp gun with you and check the tires and hubs frequently for excessive heat build up. Hot hubs/tires will preempt a failure.

Even better are the FOBO tire pressure checkers ..... to me they make waaaaaaaaaay more sense on a trailer than a Spyder ..... On a Spyder if you get a flat your going to realize it a long time before a trailer tire ....just sayin ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
I swapped out my OEM brake pads at about the 9k mile mark for EBC HH pads. My OEM's were still about 50%, but like others, one side was wearing faster than the other. YMMV ...
 
I swapped out my OEM brake pads at about the 9k mile mark for EBC HH pads. My OEM's were still about 50%, but like others, one side was wearing faster than the other. YMMV ...

That is what my front left is doing right now at 7k , I found it while inspecting during my Quatrac install. Didn't really expect to have to do it so soon.

And it is only 1 pad that is getting thin. Hopefully the ones from Lamonster will wear more even.

If they don't I just may spring for the rotors next time and change them out as well.
 
BajaRon has told me that brake pads should be changed when they get to 1mm, although they can be changed earlier if the owner prefers.
 
That is what my front left is doing right now at 7k , I found it while inspecting during my Quatrac install. Didn't really expect to have to do it so soon.

And it is only 1 pad that is getting thin. Hopefully the ones from Lamonster will wear more even.

If they don't I just may spring for the rotors next time and change them out as well.

Well better Pads should last longer .... However your pad wear issue sounds like something isn't right about thefact that they arn't wearing evenly. like the pins need cleaning and lubing. .... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:
 
You do realize that " trailer tires " generally speaking are either 8" or 12" wheels .... this means they may be travelling 3 X's as much per mile than an Auto tire ..... I think that's why they wear out faster ..... Mike :thumbup:

Without getting too off topic, from my experience, it's not the tread via distance that wears out the "average" travel trailer first but the walls of the tire giving out (especially if it's sitting in place weeks and months at a time). It's not too uncommon to see tire trailers with "like new" treads blowing out on the highway because the side walls gave out. In my "stupid years" of camping in a trailer I focused too much on the tread/mileage and not the age of the tire itself (me going one year too long on tires that "looked good" put plenty of damage to my camping trailer when the sidewall blew).

You're right though Mike, if you travel with a travel trailer constantly those smaller tires will "travel" more than an average auto tire. Plenty of factors here to consider and you definitely know more about tires than me. My point here was simply that a Spyder sitting on a tire going nowhere for months may have good tread...but all that sitting and aging of a tire isn't good either. The original owner of this Spyder only went an average of 3000 miles in 3 years on the Spyder (an average of only 1000 miles a year) with the second owner putting an additional 5000 miles on the same tires in the last year and a half. I personally would be worried about the age of the tire and replace them despite what the tread looked like (others may not and that's fine too).
 
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Without getting too off topic, from my experience, it's not the tread via distance that wears out the "average" travel trailer first but the walls of the tire giving out (especially if it's sitting in place weeks and months at a time). It's not too uncommon to see tire trailers with "like new" treads blowing out on the highway because the side walls gave out. In my "stupid years" of camping in a trailer I focused too much on the tread/mileage and not the age of the tire itself (me going one year too long on tires that "looked good" put plenty of damage to my camping trailer when the sidewall blew).

You're right though Mike, if you travel with a travel trailer constantly those smaller tires will "travel" more than an average auto tire. Plenty of factors here to consider and you definitely know more about tires than me. My point here was simply that a Spyder sitting on a tire going nowhere for months may have good tread...but all that sitting and aging of a tire isn't good either. The original owner of this Spyder only went an average of 3000 miles in 3 years on the Spyder (an average of only 1000 miles a year) with the second owner putting an additional 5000 miles on the same tires in the last year and a half. I personally would be worried about the age of the tire and replace them despite what the tread looked like (others may not and that's fine too).

A wiser man than I , told me to always cover tires on veh's that are exposed to the sun and not used frequently .... also to jack up each a bit to take the weight off so they don't " flat spot " ...... I have a collection of " cinder blocks " way cheaper than " jack stands " ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 
Well better Pads should last longer .... However your pad wear issue sounds like something isn't right about thefact that they arn't wearing evenly. like the pins need cleaning and lubing. .... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

Yep, fully agree. Pads came in today, will do the full cleaning/lube when I change them.
 
Thank you everyone for the information and advice. I picked up my Spyder on Saturday and the rear tire was worn down to the wear Indicator in the center. I ordered a new tire from tirerack,205/60R-15 Vredestein Quatrac. Already spoke with local shop they will mount tire for me as long as bring them just the tire and rim. They will not touch the spyder, which is fine.

The rear breaks will need to be done at the end of the summer. Based on everyone's advice, I ordered the retract tool and rear break pads from BajaRon.

Thank you again,
Tec/Todd
 
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Thank you everyone for the information and advice. I picked up my Spyder on Saturday and the rear tire was worn down to the wear Indicator in the center. I ordered a new tire from tirerack,205/60R-15 Vredestein Quatrac. Already spoke with local shop they will mount tire for me as long as bring them just the tire and rim. They will not touch the spyder, which is fine.

The rear breaks will need to be done at the end of the summer. Based on everyone's advice, I ordered the retract tool and rear break pads from BajaRon.

Thank you again,
Tec/Todd

I just checked your orig. post ..... 8000 mi. .... Unless you like to throw money away ( :gaah: ) ..... I would check those pads by swinging down the caliper assembly ( not difficult ) ....OEM pads have a WEAR line cut into them .... so it's easy to tell the amount of wear..... I got 30,000 mi. out of my OEM pads ( rear ), but they were toast .... Ron will tell you ... folks underestimate Pad wear by quite a bit .... they toss perfectly good Pads ..... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:
 
That is what my front left is doing right now at 7k , I found it while inspecting during my Quatrac install. Didn't really expect to have to do it so soon.

And it is only 1 pad that is getting thin. Hopefully the ones from Lamonster will wear more even.

If they don't I just may spring for the rotors next time and change them out as well.

Same with my 2020RT but at 10K miles. There was less than a mm left on one pad on the LH front set but the RH side was 2 & 3 mm. Glad I changed the tires when I did. I went with the top of the line EBC pad as replacements.
 
Thank you Mike! I will take a look when I have the tire off to see what I have left for life on the pads. Worst case I have new pads for when I need to change them.
 
Thank you Mike! I will take a look when I have the tire off to see what I have left for life on the pads. Worst case I have new pads for when I need to change them.

:thumbup::thumbup: .... If the Pads arn't wearing almost evenly, then dis-assemble and clean / polish the mounting pins .... because one isn't moving as well as the other ....JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:
 
:thumbup::thumbup: .... If the Pads arn't wearing almost evenly, then dis-assemble and clean / polish the mounting pins .... because one isn't moving as well as the other ....JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

Thank you Mike! I appreciate all good info. I will definitely look at all that when I get the tire off. Thank you:2thumbs::bowdown:
 
I have a 2017 F3 limited that I just sent in for it's yearly service. I am the 2nd owner of the Spyder, I bought in August of 2020 with 3000 miles on it. I have 8000 on it now and they are telling me I need to replace the rear tire. Does that seem right?

They also said the break pads are at half the life and they are usually replaced at the sametime as the tire. If I do not do the breaks now then I will need to do them in another 3k miles or so.


Also he will only put kenda tire on that is all he has. I am thinking of putting car tires on based on what I read here on the forums but they will not do that.

Just curious what other people think, is it possible for tire to be worn out at 8k miles? I did not take a good look at the tire before I dropped it off.
Brake pads should last at least 20000miles the oem tire hard to say mine lasted 12500 miles if you had a car tire 30000miles plus
 
The tires are old and should be replaced no matter what their milages is. I have almost 8k on mine and they are still good for another 3-4k. The brake pads sound like half worn so they don't need replacing. Car tires are for cars as they weigh more than twice what a Spyder weighs. Put another Kenda OEM on or try and get the new Kenda Kanines. We ride a one-of-a-kind vehicle and unfortunately there is not a lot of choices for tires. If there were Bridgestones or Metzler's they would cost just as much as they are motorcycle tires. MC tires use a softer rubber compound and just cost more.
 
The tires are old and should be replaced no matter what their milages is. I have almost 8k on mine and they are still good for another 3-4k. The brake pads sound like half worn so they don't need replacing. Car tires are for cars as they weigh more than twice what a Spyder weighs. Put another Kenda OEM on or try and get the new Kenda Kanines. We ride a one-of-a-kind vehicle and unfortunately there is not a lot of choices for tires. If there were Bridgestones or Metzler's they would cost just as much as they are motorcycle tires. MC tires use a softer rubber compound and just cost more.

True about the compounds used in MC tires and the weight of a car vs a Spyder, but Kendas aren't MC tires at all and just like car tires run at an appropriate pressure for the load will work equally as well under a lightweight sports car or a much heavier station wagon, fitting a car tire onto the car rims that our Spyders are fitted with and running them at an appropriate pressure for the lighter load, a car tire will work for your Spyder too. :thumbup:

As for the compounds & construction, Kenda tires & all their clones are in no way at all a motorcycle tire :lecturef_smilie: They are constructed just like every other car tire &, they use similar compounds to those used by many 'Sport/Touring' car tires & very much unlike most MC tires; the only real differences between Kendas/clones being that they use steel & poly threads that are about 1/3 lighter/weaker than those used in most car tires and they have this 'not standard or recognised by anyone/anywhere else' label on the side saying 'For special motorcycle use only' or similar in an attempt to lessen Kenda/BRP's liability if someone runs one of those tires under a car! :shocked:

So just to sum it all up for anyone interested - the Kendas & their clones have a car tire bead, they use (softish) car tire tread compounds, they have car tire tread layers, they have car tire construction; and besides that dodgy label, their lighter construction, and their appalling defect rate, they are for all intents and purposes, a lightweight car tire! :thumbup: Add to that, here in Oz some tire retailers are now becoming aware/being warned of their potential liability if they fit anything BUT a car tire onto the Spyder's 'J' type CAR rims, because that label the OEM Kenda's run is not recognised in the International Standard and that Standard and our Aust ADR's & various State's legislation expressly prohibits the fitting of anything BUT a CAR TIRE onto a 'J' type CAR RIM - and as mentioned earlier, our Spyders & Rykers run those 'J' type Car rims.... :rolleyes:
 
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The tires are old and should be replaced no matter what their milages is. I have almost 8k on mine and they are still good for another 3-4k. The brake pads sound like half worn so they don't need replacing. Car tires are for cars as they weigh more than twice what a Spyder weighs. Put another Kenda OEM on or try and get the new Kenda Kanines. We ride a one-of-a-kind vehicle and unfortunately there is not a lot of choices for tires. If there were Bridgestones or Metzler's they would cost just as much as they are motorcycle tires. MC tires use a softer rubber compound and just cost more.
:agree: with what Peter just wrote ( He likes to type:roflblack:) .... especially about the " J " beads and wheel rims. I might not have added my comments had I read Peter's post .....
Your logic / reasoning about using Auto tires is NOT founded in science. ( PS, Bridgestone also makes Auto tires ). I'd be surprised if the weight difference was 6 lbs for ALL three tires. On a veh. that weighs 1200 + lbs. I'm not concerned about 6 lbs.. Also you MUST use at least 28 lbs. PSI for the KENDA rear tire to make it SAFE to use, IMHO that's ridiculous. Folks here have been successfully using Auto tires since 09 ( and that's when I began advocating their use ). If you like Kenda's - fine, but there are better alternatives ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
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