Hi all hope you had a good christmas, now i went for a ride about 50 kays, when I got back home I parked in the garage, five minutes later I got back on it to go to the shops, I got about ten metres & it stopped, no warning not playing up at all it just stopped, all the dash lights went off as well, turned the key off & back on again & nothing, no dash lights & the tacho neddle was stuck on 1500 revs & the other neddle was on 5 KPH, I pushed it back into the garage & turned the key back on still the same, but i did notice that the lights over the wheels & at the back where on (no head lights) but still no dash lights, has any body come across this before
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dead spyder
- Thread starter essexboy
- Start date
CyncySpyder
Teddys favorite human
Not the exact same thing, but you may want to check your battery connections. Had a somewhat similar issue, where the Spyder seemed to have plenty of power, but just wouldnt start. I ended up checking the battery connections and found one a bit on the loose side. I ended up having to put a charger on the battery and after a little while, it started up just fine.
There's also the reset trick of turning the key off and on 3X rather quick like. Usually that will reset the computer, clear any faults & bring you back into reality. Resetting the computer however is a double edged sword, as if you need to take it in to the shop & they hook up BUDS, it doesn't retain the error codes in memory, so there wont be anything for them to diagnose from buds.
If you do a search on here, there's also a way to pull up the error codes & make them display on-screen, tho Ive never done that personally.
Hope you get it figured out soon & keep us updated.
There's also the reset trick of turning the key off and on 3X rather quick like. Usually that will reset the computer, clear any faults & bring you back into reality. Resetting the computer however is a double edged sword, as if you need to take it in to the shop & they hook up BUDS, it doesn't retain the error codes in memory, so there wont be anything for them to diagnose from buds.
If you do a search on here, there's also a way to pull up the error codes & make them display on-screen, tho Ive never done that personally.
Hope you get it figured out soon & keep us updated.
Bob Denman
New member
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
If it blows again, you will have to find out why. Sometimes fuses just crap out...but usually there is a cause that needs to be repaired. Which fuse was it?
SpyderDog65
New member
Get a battery tender installed just for piece of mind never have to worry about comming out to go for a ride and it won't start 
)
)Bob Denman
New member
:2thumbs: Glad to hear that is was an easy fix!
wyliec
New member
Scotty,
I was just looking at the poster's mods. Since I'm not familiar with the 'o2 modifier', I'm thinking there is an electrical connection and just maybe that may be a place to look, even if it doesn't blow again.
Like you, I would expect a fuse not to blow without a cause. But, I guess they can crap out like you said.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
The O2 modifier replaces the O2 sensor in the ECM circuit. There are lots of electrical connections on the Spyder, no sense in chasing them until the problem can be pinned down further. Once you know the circuit, you at least know where to start looking. Otherwise it is like searching for one particular blade of grass on a whole football field.
SpyderWolf
New member
:agree:
My problem ended up being linked to the wire for my taillight shorting against the metal rear fender frame. In that case the 10 amp fuse popped as soon as I turned the key on, and you could hear it pop. Knowing what fuse it was helped me track the problem down big time. :thumbup:
wyliec
New member
The O2 modifier replaces the O2 sensor in the ECM circuit. There are lots of electrical connections on the Spyder, no sense in chasing them until the problem can be pinned down further. Once you know the circuit, you at least know where to start looking. Otherwise it is like searching for one particular blade of grass on a whole football field.
I only meant to check the connections that he made, which would be easy enough to do.
SpyderWolf
New member
Thanks! Next time I am in Autozone I will definitely check those out. You are right about that making life a whole lot easier when trying to find the blown fuse. :thumbup:
Motavar
New member
View attachment 9867
Here is what the fuses look like
*Sorry for the small picture. It looks like the forum scaled it down a bit.
Here is what the fuses look like
*Sorry for the small picture. It looks like the forum scaled it down a bit.
SpyderWolf
New member
:2thumbs: Thanks, much appreciated.
I did some looking around to see if i could see anything obvious, what i did find was one of the split pins on the inner stering rod (center of spyder) was pionting down (90 degrees) instead of being bent right back & had rubbed through one of the wires that is conected to i think its the DPS, so i taped it up & zip tied thew wire down, when i went back to the dealer for DPS change they fixed it properly, & i noticed a difference in the steering after the change, a lot easier, thanks again for the help.
SpyderWolf
New member
:congrats:
Glad to hear they got it sorted out for you.
Glad to hear they got it sorted out for you.
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