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Dan Ward

Daniel Ward

New member
Hello everyone,

I am new to the forum--this is my second post. I have a question regarding my 2014 Spyder RT-S with SE6 trans. I have ridden the Spyder about 2k miles so far. I'm coming off a GL1800 Goldwing. I usually ride 2 up with my wife onboard. I have noticed that on some curves at higher speeds--say 45 to 60mph--that " It feels like the rear of the Spyder is sliding a bit. For instance, if you are going around a left hand curve, the rear wheel is sliding to the right just a little---in other words it's fishtailing out just like a car would (ahh to be young again). It has never has slid out on me ---it just feels like it might. Has anyone noticed this on their Spyder? Is this normal for a Spyder to do this? I realize this is a very subjective question, but I thought I'd throw it out there and see what everyone thought. One of the reasons I ask is I bought the Spyder used and it has a non OEM rear tire. I looked it up and it gets good reviews. It is a Yokohama S Drive tire. Penny for everybody's thoughts

Regards---Dan
 
Welcome. The 1st thing I would check is tire pressure. Try 18-20 psi and see what happens. You likely are over pressure for that tire.
 
Not only can you check your rear tire pressure, check the airbag pressure under the seat. Even though you might have the airbag adjustment button below your handlebars, it can be excessively low. My (new to me) '13 RTL felt loose when I bought it back in '16, eventually found the airbag was below 30 PSI. Used a cordless digital airpump (From Lamonster) and set it at 50lbs. changed the way the bike felt.
 
Sliding feeling

Not only can you check your rear tire pressure, check the airbag pressure under the seat. Even though you might have the airbag adjustment button below your handlebars, it can be excessively low. My (new to me) '13 RTL felt loose when I bought it back in '16, eventually found the airbag was below 30 PSI. Used a cordless digital airpump (From Lamonster) and set it at 50lbs. changed the way the bike felt.
:agree: with both above posters .... An Over-inflated tire is more likely to cause sliding than one that has a lower psi ...... Also on filling the Air Bag ...if you do it manually - like from a compressor be very careful ..... that bag is small and can easily be overfilled and damaged .....................:welcome:............ Mike :thumbup:
 
All of the above....

There you have it....the tire is a good one... but it is a car tire so pressure is one problem as the spyder is a tad lighter. The shock is the other...:thumbup:
But...first of all Welcome to the 🎪 glad you jumped on in...:clap:
 
:welcome:

One thing I noticed on our RT that if the pressure was above about the halfway point on the air ryde indicator, it put the rear end up higher and made it harder to handle on curves. Just another thought...
 
Air Pressure ?

Welcome. The 1st thing I would check is tire pressure. Try 18-20 psi and see what happens. You likely are over pressure for that tire.

Is the air pressure different on the Yokohama tires, than on the BRP Stock tires? I'm looking at car tires for my next change out.
 
:welcome: and :congrats:on your ryde. I have one of them. :yes::yes::yes:

Once you get the tire pressure thing solved--you might try the following when riding the twisties:

Enter a curve at such a speed that you can accelerate rather than needing braking to slow down.

Plant the outside foot on the floorboards. Lean slightly into the curve. Grab the tank with your knees. The "g" forces will diminish considerably. Your passenger should mimic your movements.

You will find that you can exceed posted by 20 mph or so--without "nanny" coming on or getting the feeling its going to slide out.

My line of drive on most curves is from the inside to the outside.
Don't overdrive your skill level. If you are crossing the center line and going into the oncoming lane--you are going to fast.

Hope this helps. :yes:
 
eventually found the airbag was below 30 PSI. Used a cordless digital airpump (From Lamonster) and set it at 50lbs. changed the way the bike felt.

I bet it did. Since the minimum "bag" pressure is around 7 pounds.

Are you SURE that it is designed to operate with a pressure that high ??
 
PSI for Car tires

Is the air pressure different on the Yokohama tires, than on the BRP Stock tires? I'm looking at car tires for my next change out.
Both myself and Peter Aawen recommend 17 to 18 psi in any Auto tire for the rear ...... The fronts will work best at about 15psi ...... An Auto tire is much stronger than the Kenda's, and is designed to carry much more weight ..... So the tires need much less pressure to operate at their best ....wet & dry ................Mike :thumbup:
 
Daniel Ward

I hope I am replying to this thread correctly---I guess if everyone can read it it's ok ?

Anyway---Thanks to all for your input ! It helps a lot. I had 28 lbs of air in the the rear Yokohama tire. I think I must have put what the manual said, but it never occurred to me that it should be lower because it was a car tire. I will check the bladder and adjust to BRP specs being careful not to over inflate. The tire was on the Spyder when I bought it and I did not know it was a non OEM tire until I got it home. I notice other Spyder riders seem to like it, and it looks almost brand new. I just had a 3 wheel laser alignment so I would like to get my use out of it. I need to get everything up to snuff because we are planning a 5000 mile trip this summer. We will be leaving Dayton, Ohio heading west to the Yellowstone area. This is a great forum--Thanks to all---Regards---Dan
 
5000 mile to jellystone

that is a big ride , if you have not looked ahead on this trip , might be able to link up with other spyders along the way , some where other side of Illinois and other stops for rest as you go ... get points of interest , and emergency contacts if needed ... just a thought ( for your 2 cents :yes: )
 
Fuel up when you get a chance....

Usually the Interstates have convenient gas stops, but be wary when crossing Wyoming on I-25 or 70 as the stops can be more than 100 miles apart and your 2013 drinks a little more gas especially at high speeds and/or into the wind. I remember "sweating it" when we didn't fuel at KayCee, WY.... it was a long way to Casper:shocked:. Beautiful country, lots to see in NW Wyoming.:riding:
 
Usually the Interstates have convenient gas stops, but be wary when crossing Wyoming on I-25 or 70 as the stops can be more than 100 miles apart and your 2013 drinks a little more gas especially at high speeds and/or into the wind. I remember "sweating it" when we didn't fuel at KayCee, WY.... it was a long way to Casper:shocked:. Beautiful country, lots to see in NW Wyoming.:riding:

He mentioned that he has a 2014 RTS which should have the 1330 engine so he wouldn't have the same fuel concerns as with the 2013 998 - correct?
 
He mentioned that he has a 2014 RTS which should have the 1330 engine so he wouldn't have the same fuel concerns as with the 2013 998 - correct?

The 1330 should have a 200 mile range with a bit to spare.


WARNING, WARNING, WARNING--YOUR MILEAGE MAY DIFFER. :thumbup:
 
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Yes the 1330 will greatly improve the range on your trip

I dont know where I got the idea of the 2013. One of the great advantages of the 1330 platform when touring:yes:
 
The 1330 should have a 200 mile range with a bit to spare.

Not when crossing Montana or Wyoming at 80 MPH interstate speeds. We started looking for fuel around the 120-150 mile mark. I didn't feel safe going slower because even at 80 MPH in the slow lane I was getting passed by triples doing close to a ton. :yikes:
 
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