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Cruise control

prmurat

New member
Just back from the 600 miles service... is this the most expensive bike to work on??? OK I should not have ordered the extra stop light or the 2 fenders light/blinkers... maybe I could have live without my old Zumo 550, but still $1200?????
Just 2 questions: does your cruise control switch off automatically on bumpy roads? my foot is miles away from the brake so I don't get it!
Any other windshield, maybe with a negative curve, a la ST1100, to have less buffering?
Thanks
Philippe
 
$1,200 for a 600 mile service alone is outrageous! If that is all that was done, I'd find another dealer. Typical cost is $250-$300. If you had other work done at the same time, that's a different story. It's all time and materials, and those labor hours add up fast.

I have had a few instances of the cruise kicking off on a rough road, without touching the brake, but it doesn't happen to me often. My theory is that the weight of the pedal makes it jiggle. The Spyder brake sensor is very sensitive. Have someone follow you, and if the brake light blinks in the rough stuff, the brake lever/sensor is your likely cause. If the problem occurs frequently, I'd see your dealer.....or find a smoother road. :D
 
Just back from the 600 miles service... is this the most expensive bike to work on??? OK I should not have ordered the extra stop light or the 2 fenders light/blinkers... maybe I could have live without my old Zumo 550, but still $1200?????
Just 2 questions: does your cruise control switch off automatically on bumpy roads? my foot is miles away from the brake so I don't get it!
Any other windshield, maybe with a negative curve, a la ST1100, to have less buffering?
Thanks
Philippe

Possible that the brake pedal is bouncing also and could affect Cruise Control :dontknow:...


Freebob...:doorag:
 
:doorag:
$1,200 for a 600 mile service alone is outrageous! If that is all that was done, I'd find another dealer. Typical cost is $250-$300. If you had other work done at the same time, that's a different story. It's all time and materials, and those labor hours add up fast.

I have had a few instances of the cruise kicking off on a rough road, without touching the brake, but it doesn't happen to me often. My theory is that the weight of the pedal makes it jiggle. The Spyder brake sensor is very sensitive. Have someone follow you, and if the brake light blinks in the rough stuff, the brake lever/sensor is your likely cause. If the problem occurs frequently, I'd see your dealer.....or find a smoother road. :D

Yes that was my first thought also...You beat me to it...:ohyea:...


Freebob...:doorag:
 
Just back from the 600 miles service... is this the most expensive bike to work on??? OK I should not have ordered the extra stop light or the 2 fenders light/blinkers... maybe I could have live without my old Zumo 550, but still $1200?????
Just 2 questions: does your cruise control switch off automatically on bumpy roads? my foot is miles away from the brake so I don't get it!
Any other windshield, maybe with a negative curve, a la ST1100, to have less buffering?
Thanks
Philippe

My cruise cuts out, too on sharp bumps like road heaves.
 
Just back from the 600 miles service... is this the most expensive bike to work on??? OK I should not have ordered the extra stop light or the 2 fenders light/blinkers... maybe I could have live without my old Zumo 550, but still $1200?????
Just 2 questions: does your cruise control switch off automatically on bumpy roads? my foot is miles away from the brake so I don't get it!
Any other windshield, maybe with a negative curve, a la ST1100, to have less buffering?
Thanks
Philippe

I would have asked beforehand how much on those additions. $1200 is a lot of money for the 600 mile services, but add the labor on the additions, you should have known that it was going to be (a little) high!:yikes: But again... $1200?!?! :gaah: I paid $725 for mine, but I had the fog lights installed at the same time.
 
I am not the smartest bear in the woods, but I had read posts here about many different Spyder "things". One was the prices for the 600 check. When dealing for my RT-S, I asked for pricing and what it included on 600 and 3,000 mile checks, hourly rate, etc.

My dealer said a normal 600 is $220, but "we give a 15% discount to those who buy their Spyders from us." We also give this discount to parts and labor on items you have us install when we assemble your RT.

This is a bad thing. They sucked me in. They gave me a $500 discount card for riding a Spyder demo at the San Antonio motorcycle show along with the 15% discount on my CB, 660 GPS, XM radio, Spyder foot rest and the necessary wiring...and the labor! This discount applies to all future purchases and labor.

What could I say but "Yes!"

:spyder2:
 
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I am not the smartest bear in the woods, but I had read posts here about many different Spyder "things". One was the prices for the 600 check. When dealing for my RT-S, I asked for pricing and what it included on 600 and 3,000 mile checks, hourly rate, etc.

My dealer said a normal 600 is $220, but "we give a 15% discount to those who buy their Spyders from us." We also give this discount to parts and labor on items you have us install when we assemble your RT.

This is a bad thing. They sucked me in. They gave me a $500 discount card for riding a Spyder demo at the San Antonio motorcycle show along with the 15% discount on my CB, 660 GPS, XM radio, Spyder foot rest and the necessary wiring...and the labor! This discount applies to all future purchases and labor.

What could I say but "Yes!"

:spyder2:


:coffee::2excited::clap:.....
 
Wow--$1200 for a 600 mile service does seem way out of line--unless you had extra things done.

No problem with my cruise control kicking off--but I try to avoid bumpy roads. When on them--I ride pretty conservative.
 
As others have said, that price doesn't seem way out of line, it is out of line, depending on what you've had done.

I just took mine in for the 600 mile service, to a VERY expensive dealership with big-city labor rates ($95/hr) and I'm paying $340 for my oil change, break-in inspection, and my state safety inspection.

Thus, there's an obvious disconnect here. :(

FYI, as an aside, I say this as the LEAST MECHANICALLY INCLINED poster on this board: most of the mods, especially the lighting mods, are so easy a caveman can do it.

I installed the ESI/NMN Triple Play, center taillight, fender tips, Brightsides and mirror extensions entirely by myself with nothing more than a little patience and referrals back to this forum. The only problems that I ran into were all ones that I solved with a little trial and error (okay, those mirror extensions ended up being trickier than I had hoped, but nothing a few extra washers didn't solve).

Honestly, had I paid $95 an hour to anyone for installing those lights knowing how easy it all was, I would have been peeved. Seriously, I've had far harder times reprogramming VCRs and setting clock radios.

Now, that doesn't mean that there aren't some mods that you shouldn't outsource. I did the sway-bar install myself, but I had a motorcycle jack, jackstands and an extra pair of hands at a critical moment-- although it wasn't hard, I wouldn't begrudge anyone outsourcing something like that to the dealer.

But I strongly suggest to all new Spyder owners: do your research, read the PDF instructions ahead of time, search on the board and ask questions here, and you'll get through *plenty* of these mods on your own, and save plenty of money (so you can buy even more mods :thumbup:).
 
Just back from the 600 miles service... is this the most expensive bike to work on??? OK I should not have ordered the extra stop light or the 2 fenders light/blinkers... maybe I could have live without my old Zumo 550, but still $1200?????
Just 2 questions: does your cruise control switch off automatically on bumpy roads? my foot is miles away from the brake so I don't get it!
Any other windshield, maybe with a negative curve, a la ST1100, to have less buffering?
Thanks
Philippe

Had my 600 mile service done today. I had no other work done and the bill was $189.00. :2thumbs:
 
Just back from the 600 miles service... is this the most expensive bike to work on??? OK I should not have ordered the extra stop light or the 2 fenders light/blinkers... maybe I could have live without my old Zumo 550, but still $1200?????
Just 2 questions: does your cruise control switch off automatically on bumpy roads? my foot is miles away from the brake so I don't get it!
Any other windshield, maybe with a negative curve, a la ST1100, to have less buffering?
Thanks
Philippe
just got back from my dealer for same problem.I think that they adjusted the brake lite switch.resume works much better now as well as not cutting out when hitting bumps
 
Bouncing Windshield and Cruise Control

Just back from the 600 miles service... is this the most expensive bike to work on??? OK I should not have ordered the extra stop light or the 2 fenders light/blinkers... maybe I could have live without my old Zumo 550, but still $1200?????
Just 2 questions: does your cruise control switch off automatically on bumpy roads? my foot is miles away from the brake so I don't get it!
Any other windshield, maybe with a negative curve, a la ST1100, to have less buffering?
Thanks
Philippe
I only have 250 miles on my 2011 RTS/SE5. I noticed that everytime you hit a bump there is a bit of shaking from the shield. I guess the problem is that it is adjustable and not permenantly attached to the bike. However, the adjustable shield is a real plus. I tried the cruise control yesterday, and it works properly. However, I feel as though I have no control of the RT and actually prefer the feeling of NOT using the cruise. Now if the RT was a bit smoother, I would like it even more. LOL.
Gordon from New Jersey
 
The manual states that any vehicle stability system intervention will cancel the cruise, maybe that is what is happening on the bumpy roads.
 
I read this thread days ago but didn't think I had anything to contribute. HOWEVER, (and correct me if I am wrong).

The cruise control cuts out (in 5th) at about 43 mph. I found this because the road I ryde home on is 45 mph and I use the CC whenever I can. Going up a hill can slow you down to the point where the CC will cancel.

Just something else to be aware of.
 
I read this thread days ago but didn't think I had anything to contribute. HOWEVER, (and correct me if I am wrong).

The cruise control cuts out (in 5th) at about 43 mph. I found this because the road I ryde home on is 45 mph and I use the CC whenever I can. Going up a hill can slow you down to the point where the CC will cancel.

Just something else to be aware of.
The cruise will cut out (or fail to set) whenever the rpm is too low. 45 in 5th is pretty darned low, considering that 70 is about 5,000 rpm in 5th.
 
I read this thread days ago but didn't think I had anything to contribute. HOWEVER, (and correct me if I am wrong).

The cruise control cuts out (in 5th) at about 43 mph. I found this because the road I ryde home on is 45 mph and I use the CC whenever I can. Going up a hill can slow you down to the point where the CC will cancel.

Just something else to be aware of.

Your really lugging the engine. I never shift into 5th until at least 60 or around 5K RPMs in 4th.
 
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