Coping with limp mode

[Pennyrick]

This topic may be peculiar to 990 models but we’re wondering if it may work on 1330’s as well.

I downloaded the Spyder Do’s and Dont’s thread started by ARtraveller some time ago and gave a copy to my wife to read before she goes anywhere on her new 2020 RT limited. I thought she ought to have a refresher since it has been several years since she drove her 990 RTSE.

After reading it throughly, Penny commented that there is no mention of how to reset the Spyder after experiencing a limp mode. Penny’s 2012 RT limited had a nasty habit of going into limp mode at the worst possible time. Usually on a trip where no dealers were in the area and we were out of cell phone range.

She found that shutting the bike down and leaving it sit for 45-50 minutes and then restarting would often get it out of limp mode. The key was to remove the key and position it at least 100 yards from the Spyder. Apparently there is a computer chip in the key that can “see” the bike unless it is far away.

This worked several times for us with the 2012 models and we wonder if this method still applies to the 1330 models. I thought of adding this to the Do’s and Dont’s list but thought I would check things out with this post. Does it still work?

Pennyrick

 

[ARtraveler]

A small correction: The Do's and Dont's thread was started by Illinois Boy. I have copy/pasted the thread to many new comers as very good information about Spyders.

I am NOT the author of that thread. :bowdown:

 

[Bfromla]

Well there is no clearing active code without buds at dealer. Key trick does help giving computer time to reset & check things that may have only been temporarily there. Is good to note the code & see if there are more
(happens a lot with loose battery connections) you may be able to resolve some issues yourselves, but knowing is part of maintaining & you can be more prepared if happens again.:thumbup: When planning trips good idea to google search dealers along route & have the#& addresses handy with credit card & roadside assistance program. :clap:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

This topic may be peculiar to 990 models but we’re wondering if it may work on 1330’s as well.

I downloaded the Spyder Do’s and Dont’s thread started by ARtraveller some time ago and gave a copy to my wife to read before she goes anywhere on her new 2020 RT limited. I thought she ought to have a refresher since it has been several years since she drove her 990 RTSE.

After reading it throughly, Penny commented that there is no mention of how to reset the Spyder after experiencing a limp mode. Penny’s 2012 RT limited had a nasty habit of going into limp mode at the worst possible time. Usually on a trip where no dealers were in the area and we were out of cell phone range.

She found that shutting the bike down and leaving it sit for 45-50 minutes and then restarting would often get it out of limp mode. The key was to remove the key and position it at least 100 yards from the Spyder. Apparently there is a computer chip in the key that can “see” the bike unless it is far away.

This worked several times for us with the 2012 models and we wonder if this method still applies to the 1330 models. I thought of adding this to the Do’s and Dont’s list but thought I would check things out with this post. Does it still work?

Pennyrick

This has worked for many,many of any model ...... First, identify what code is active ( someone here will tell you how to do it ) ...#2.... stop the engine , remove the key and take it at least 5 feet away for 5 min. ....then re-start and see if the code has cleared .... #3.- if it didn't , stop engine, remove both battery cables, touch the cables together ..... re-connect ( I always put STAR washers on my terminals , they will NEVER loosen by themselves ), and see if this clears the LIMP mode ..... Mike hyea:

 

[Pennyrick]

Thanks for the responses.

It looks like we wasted a lot of time waiting for codes to clear and five feet from the bike is a lot fewer steps than 100 yards away.

Any way it’s good to know it will work on her new RT should the occasion arise. Of course the are a lot more dealers around now than there were when we were touring on our older Spyders.

Blue Knight your explanation is very clear. Will you add it to the Do’s and Dont’s thread?

Pennyrick

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks for the responses.

It looks like we wasted a lot of time waiting for codes to clear and five feet from the bike is a lot fewer steps than 100 yards away.

Any way it’s good to know it will work on her new RT should the occasion arise. Of course the are a lot more dealers around now than there were when we were touring on our older Spyders.

Blue Knight your explanation is very clear. Will you add it to the Do’s and Dont’s thread?

Pennyrick

Thanks, But I can't accomplish that ...... I think one of the Administrators could if they agree with my thoughts ...... PS the " 100 " yards thing was an urban myth kind of thing ...... the transponder for the Key has a very, very limited range ..... in fact after you stop the engine after a ride, remove the key and leave it on the seat, the computer will re-boot in a few minutes. I do this all the time ...... Mike hyea:

 

[SICARIO]

My wife's Ryker 900 went into limp mode a couple times within a week after pick up from the dealer. Once we got it into the dealer, they found the OEM sparks plugs were trashed (no clarification from the dealer). They installed new spark plugs and it seemed to fix the problem.

 

[Pennyrick]

Thanks for the response. I think Blueknight911 covered the topic well and I hope his explanation gets added to the Do’s and Dont’s thread. I understand the need to research dealer locations when planning a trip but some of the places we’ve travelled to are well off the beaten path and a long ways from any CanAm dealer.
Pennyrick

 

[Lew L]

My wife's Ryker 900 went into limp mode a couple times within a week after pick up from the dealer. Once we got it into the dealer, they found the OEM sparks plugs were trashed (no clarification from the dealer). They installed new spark plugs and it seemed to fix the problem.

Sounds like dealer BS to me.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Sounds like dealer BS to me.

:agree: ............. But I prefer " Hooey " :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:.............. PS - Lew,- Sugarbush sent all pass-holders a 1000 word message about what they were going to do to Prevent any health issues .... Well that was last week - My advice is get as much skiing in as you can NOW .... tomorrow things might change. .... PPS my new ski's are K2 Iconic's in 176 cm ..... the reviews I read said they were pretty stiff, but still a turning ski ...... my ability is much improved from last season ...... PPS, last week I met a French Lady at the chair lift, we had a lengthy conversation about our lives and She said 46 yrs ago She made the Canadian " B " team ...... when we started skiing I was surprised I could almost keep up with Her :clap::yes::yes: and we ended up skiing for about 4 hrs. ...... Her husband was over on the Racing Mtn. with the race team they had come down with ....... Mike hyea:

 

[billybovine]

This topic may be peculiar to 990 models but we’re wondering if it may work on 1330’s as well.

I downloaded the Spyder Do’s and Dont’s thread started by ARtraveller some time ago and gave a copy to my wife to read before she goes anywhere on her new 2020 RT limited. I thought she ought to have a refresher since it has been several years since she drove her 990 RTSE.

After reading it throughly, Penny commented that there is no mention of how to reset the Spyder after experiencing a limp mode. Penny’s 2012 RT limited had a nasty habit of going into limp mode at the worst possible time. Usually on a trip where no dealers were in the area and we were out of cell phone range.

She found that shutting the bike down and leaving it sit for 45-50 minutes and then restarting would often get it out of limp mode. The key was to remove the key and position it at least 100 yards from the Spyder. Apparently there is a computer chip in the key that can “see” the bike unless it is far away.

This worked several times for us with the 2012 models and we wonder if this method still applies to the 1330 models. I thought of adding this to the Do’s and Dont’s list but thought I would check things out with this post. Does it still work?

Pennyrick

Limp Mode happens when a fault is detected that could impair safety or cause damage. So to clear the fault. Fix the reason that the fault occured. Clues to what is wrong are what warning lights are on.

It is a commonly repeated myth. That you can fix what is wrong by turning off the ignition for some unexplained amount of time. Removing the key to some unexplained distance away. Why not do the hokey pokey while your at it. That would be just as helpful. What is true that if you turn off the ignition key and wait 30 seconds for the Spyder to do it's shut down sequence. Some faults will change from a active state to occured. So the fault may not come back when the key is turned back on. There is never any reason to remove the key from the ignition to change the state of a fault. The only time there is any communication between the key and DESS module is for a couple seconds after ignition is turned on or when in new key programming mode. Just to recap. To change the state of a fault. Turning the key off for more than 30 seconds, is a waste of time. Of course if the fault is overheating, time will help. Removing the key is just a waste of effort.

If a fault occurs. Retrieve the fault code. Ask someone what the fault could mean and go from there.

 

[Pennyrick]

When BUDDS aren’t available

Limp Mode happens when a fault is detected that could impair safety or cause damage. So to clear the fault. Fix the reason that the fault occured. Clues to what is wrong are what warning lights are on.

It is a commonly repeated myth. That you can fix what is wrong by turning off the ignition for some unexplained amount of time. Removing the key to some unexplained distance away. Why not do the hokey pokey while your at it. That would be just as helpful. What is true that if you turn off the ignition key and wait 30 seconds for the Spyder to do it's shut down sequence. Some faults will change from a active state to occured. So the fault may not come back when the key is turned back on. There is never any reason to remove the key from the ignition to change the state of a fault. The only time there is any communication between the key and DESS module is for a couple seconds after ignition is turned on or when in new key programming mode. Just to recap. To change the state of a fault. Turning the key off for more than 30 seconds, is a waste of time. Of course if the fault is overheating, time will help. Removing the key is just a waste of effort.
If a fault occurs. Retrieve the fault code. Ask someone what the fault could mean and go from ther

I agree with all you say. BUT!

Eight or ten years ago when we travelled extensively on our RT’s it was not possible to find a dealer within a few hours of travel time to help source the fault. Driving Route 12 along the outer banks of South Carolina or riding the Florida coastline through the Apilatchicola National Forest are two vivid examples of where limp mode failures stranded us and, but for knowing how to clear the fault codes and continue our journey we were screwed.

Doing so, may have damaged the Spyder but we didn’t really care at that point. On another trip Penny’s 2012 RT failed us in Damascus, Virginia with the closest Can Am dealer located in Elizabethton, Tennessee. The Spyder and it’s companion trailer were loaded on a flatbed and hauled to that dealer who ultimately shipped it to a dealer in Kodak, Tennessee where the techs sourced the problem to a faulty ignition switch.

Despite all these troubles we still love Spyders or we would not have sprung for the 2020 model. The product and dealer network have both improved.

Pennyrick

 

[billybovine]

I agree with all you say. BUT!

Eight or ten years ago when we travelled extensively on our RT’s it was not possible to find a dealer within a few hours of travel time to help source the fault. Driving Route 12 along the outer banks of South Carolina or riding the Florida coastline through the Apilatchicola National Forest are two vivid examples of where limp mode failures stranded us and, but for knowing how to clear the fault codes and continue our journey we were screwed.

Doing so, may have damaged the Spyder but we didn’t really care at that point. On another trip Penny’s 2012 RT failed us in Damascus, Virginia with the closest Can Am dealer located in Elizabethton, Tennessee. The Spyder and it’s companion trailer were loaded on a flatbed and hauled to that dealer who ultimately shipped it to a dealer in Kodak, Tennessee where the techs sourced the problem to a faulty ignition switch.

Despite all these troubles we still love Spyders or we would not have sprung for the 2020 model. The product and dealer network have both improved.

Pennyrick

There is no way to override a fault code and the Limp Home Mode that may come with that. Not on a Spyder and likely not on any other modern vehicle. You are looking for something that does not exist. When the reason for the fault has been fixed. The fault code will go away on it's own. No need for a dealer to plug in BUDS. There is only one exception to this that I know of is low pressure brake fault. It has to be cleared and again BUDS is not needed. Can be cleared without.

If you retrieve the active fault code when it happens. On your 2020. It is in the menu to get it. Copy the 5 digit alphanumeric code and post it on here. Someone will tell you what it means and maybe it is something you can fix on the road.