Coolant mixture: your opinions?

[sabunim5]

Even Cheaper

I just found it here http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...ike-Coolant-And-Antifreeze?PID=3629892&ref=cj for less. Just changed my coolant so I am good for a while, but maybe next time. I'll keep on eye on how you folks fare with the LP. :thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

I just found it here http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...ike-Coolant-And-Antifreeze?PID=3629892&ref=cj for less. Just changed my coolant so I am good for a while, but maybe next time. I'll keep on eye on how you folks fare with the LP. :thumbup:

$17.99 + $7.00 shipping = $24.99 (if you don't have to pay tax). You might get free shipping if you order over $99.00. Then it would be cheaper.

 

[Spyder Tony]

I have ordered this product and it may have more info on the container. If not, I will call LP and see if I can get some answers.
If it is as good as they claim, it will be a big improvement for many.

I personally will be waiting on your findings. Thanks for the tip on completely draining the radiator of old fluid b4 adding the new too!!!

 

[cjackg]

Coolant Flush....

I just spent an hour reading everything I could find about the LP Coolant (not much!) and, even more interesting, how to do a complete coolant flush when changing to a different product...

Just Google "how to do a coolant flush" for some interesting readiing that will make you think twice about this... Yes, I do my own oil/filter changes but this has more twists & turns than any oil change thread...

....but I do have the LP coolant on order and when I receive it this week will consider if I want to jump ahead and give it a try...:yikes:

 

[BajaRon]

I just spent an hour reading everything I could find about the LP Coolant (not much!) and, even more interesting, how to do a complete coolant flush when changing to a different product...

Just Google "how to do a coolant flush" for some interesting readiing that will make you think twice about this... Yes, I do my own oil/filter changes but this has more twists & turns than any oil change thread...

....but I do have the LP coolant on order and when I receive it this week will consider if I want to jump ahead and give it a try...:yikes:

I've done a flush on the Spyder and it isn't all that bad. Not sure what kind of instructions you found but they may not apply (difficulty wise) to the Spyder. I'm sure they did make it sound pretty dire if you didn't do it right though.

 

[rcturner]

My recommendation would be to follow the manufactures requirements. That way, if there is a problem related to cooling, they have nothing to talk about. Also, engines run at a predefined temperature for a reason. Running cooler than it was designed for can sometimes lead to other issues similar to stressing a cold engine. Sensors want to see certain predetermined temps in order to tell the computer when everything is normal and ready to perform.

 

[cjackg]

Ron, how about a few step-by-step notes on easy/best way to do the flush on a spyder...

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[BajaRon]

My recommendation would be to follow the manufactures requirements. That way, if there is a problem related to cooling, they have nothing to talk about. Also, engines run at a predefined temperature for a reason. Running cooler than it was designed for can sometimes lead to other issues similar to stressing a cold engine. Sensors want to see certain predetermined temps in order to tell the computer when everything is normal and ready to perform.

I understand the 'Play it safe' angle. On the other hand, if everyone followed that precept we'd still be walking.

Upgrading the coolant system is probably something that most people do not need to do. But if you're changing your coolant anyway, why not take a look at the alternatives?

Unless you remove the thermostat (not recommended), your Spyder CANNOT run colder than it should. The idea here is to keep your Spyder from running HOTTER than it should (which I would think the manufacturer would also encourage).

Ideally, your engine will always run just above full open on the thermostat. That is not realistic and not all that important, within parameters.

But if you're stuck in stop and go traffic on a very hot day it is possible to strain or even exceed the capabilities of your coolant system. Increasing the efficiency of the coolant really has no down side (mechanically), but may serve to extend the life of your engine and increase dependability.

I'm always looking for a better mouse trap... hyea:

Next up.... A Perpetual motion machine and an infinite power source...

Ron, how about a few step-by-step notes on easy/best way to do the flush on a spyder...

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

I barely have time to change my coolant, much less document the process! :shocked:

And it may be that this formula is compatible with the antifreeze that is already in the Spyder. Once I get my 2 bottles of juice, I'll look into this a little further.

 

[NancysToy]

Next up.... A Perpetual motion machine and an infinite power source...

Hey, take it easy on the perpetual motion machine. I have a patent pending. :roflblack:

 

[bluestratos]

I have run engine ice for years now, you put in 100%, no mixing. Not cheap but it works! You will see much lower temps under all hot conditions. I was getting close to redline at a long light during 90 degree weather. Now it stays well under even in 100 degree temps in stop and go traffic. It takes hard evidence to convince me of anything so I was shocked when it actually worked as stated.

 

[BajaRon]

Hey, take it easy on the perpetual motion machine. I have a patent pending. :roflblack:

Hey! That's great news! I'll just use yours!

And, I'll have more time to work on the IPS (Not Lamonster's)

Then, if I get any spare time. I'm going to start that project on a time travel machine.... Hmmm, maybe I should work on that one FIRST! I could use a few dozen 'Ground Hog Days' hyea:

 

[NancysToy]

Well, I'm still pretty busy perfecting the skyhook, so I have too much to do to collaborate with you on your projects. Spring is coming and I will have to tend my money tree in the garden, too. So many projects, so little time! :roflblack:


We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.

 

[rcturner]

Unless you remove the thermostat (not recommended), your Spyder CANNOT run colder than it should. The idea here is to keep your Spyder from running HOTTER than it should (which I would think the manufacturer would also encourage).

Ideally, your engine will always run just above full open on the thermostat. That is not realistic and not all that important, within parameters.

But if you're stuck in stop and go traffic on a very hot day it is possible to strain or even exceed the capabilities of your coolant system. Increasing the efficiency of the coolant really has no down side (mechanically), but may serve to extend the life of your engine and increase dependability.

I don't disagree with anything you have said. However, as with most things, it only addresses one part of the equation. For those of us in the rural and frozen north, warm up is probably a far bigger issue than sitting in traffic. My 2012 RT will take about 8 or 10 miles for the temp to stabilize. As with all engines, the most damage can be done when it is not up to temp. Anything from the dry start to internal tolerances not being where they should be until the temp stabilized. I suspect that some of the excessive oil consumption reported on this forum could be the direct result of engines being run too hard when not up to temp. Scored pistons and cylinders are probably the most common problem experienced when cold engines are not treated with the proper caution. But, as you have said, everyone should do what they are comfortable with. For me, in my 50 plus years of selling auto parts, truck parts and chemicals as well as working on engines of many types, I have never seen these super coolants really solve anything. If they did, the engineers that designed the product probably would have included them as shipped from the factory. Especially if you have a product like the 2013s that seem to have a major heat problem.

 

[BajaRon]

I don't disagree with anything you have said. However, as with most things, it only addresses one part of the equation. For those of us in the rural and frozen north, warm up is probably a far bigger issue than sitting in traffic. My 2012 RT will take about 8 or 10 miles for the temp to stabilize. As with all engines, the most damage can be done when it is not up to temp. Anything from the dry start to internal tolerances not being where they should be until the temp stabilized. I suspect that some of the excessive oil consumption reported on this forum could be the direct result of engines being run too hard when not up to temp. Scored pistons and cylinders are probably the most common problem experienced when cold engines are not treated with the proper caution. But, as you have said, everyone should do what they are comfortable with. For me, in my 50 plus years of selling auto parts, truck parts and chemicals as well as working on engines of many types, I have never seen these super coolants really solve anything. If they did, the engineers that designed the product probably would have included them as shipped from the factory. Especially if you have a product like the 2013s that seem to have a major heat problem.

Good points. And one reason I run a true Full Synthetic oil. Much better for running cold until you reach operating temperatures. Most of the owners looking for a more efficient cooling system are running in hot to very hot conditions. Someone that never experiences temperatures above 80 or 90 degrees Fahrenheit should be more than good with standard coolant.

There are also the 2013's that get a lot of customer complaint about too much heat on the rider. If you can drop the coolant temperature 10 degrees you're going to drop engine temperatures a fair amount more than that. This could be good news (though not necessarily a complete fix) for these owners.

I also agree that a lot of products are noting more than 'Snake Oil' better designed to remove cash from your pocket than to improve anything.

My only real point is that IF this product increases the cooling system efficiency and IF you have heat issues, then this May be an option that you may want to consider.

Of course, no one should change what they are doing if they are not comfortable with it.

 

[cjackg]

Here it is.... LP Street Bike Coolant & AntiFreeze

Looks like a complete flush is required to use this in an RT.... So, does anyone have any tips for doing the Flush & Fill on an RT ?

 

[cjackg]

Hard to get good Help around here...

Ok, I am done with the RT radiator drain, Flush, and refill with LP Liquid Performance Street Bike Coolant and Antifreeze. Turned out to be pretty easy...

I did not remove the drain plug and instead disconnected the bottom hose to drain. Flushed the system with a gallon of distilled water after I drained it.

Filled it with LP and buttoned it all up and everything looks good...

I'll be heading to Florida next week to spend the month of Feb there and hope to see some improvement in the heat levels. Sure wish I had a water temp gauge on the bike to get actual before/after readings but guess I'll just have to use the seat-of-the-pants approach...:thumbup:

Updated: 3/1/2014.. After spending several weeks ryding in Fla in Feb with temps usually 70--85, I have to say I did not see any measureable improvement in the heat levels. Maybe someone with a more serious heat problem might see more benefite but I cannot see any justification for spending the $$ on this product....

 

[BajaRon]

Ok, I am done with the RT radiator drain, Flush, and refill with LP Liquid Performance Street Bike Coolant and Antifreeze. Turned out to be pretty easy...

I did not remove the drain plug and instead disconnected the bottom hose to drain. Flushed the system with a gallon of distilled water after I drained it.

Filled it with LP and buttoned it all up and everything looks good...

I'll be heading to Florida next week to spend the month of Feb there and hope to see some improvement in the heat levels. Sure wish I had a water temp gauge on the bike to get actual before/after readings but guess I'll just have to use the seat-of-the-pants approach...:thumbup:

It has been awhile since I did my flush and that's pretty much how I remember it. There aren't a lot of nooks, crannies and places for the antifreeze to hide in our Spyder so the process is pretty straight forward.

The main thing is; DO NOT PULL THE DRAIN PLUG! First, it isn't necessary, second, pulling the lower radiator hose is more effective anyway. And, if I remember right, pulling the lower hose is easier than messing with the dangerous drain plug.

Let us know how it goes!

 

[cjackg]

My concern would be with boil-over. Just because your temp gauge says 215 (I know it doesn't because it's just blocks, but humor me), doesn't mean that a 220 coolant isn't boiling. What you aren't factoring in is the temperature of the coolant touching the cylinder wall. If you only have a 5 degree buffer you are probably getting a boil at the coolant to metal surface in some areas.

Right now I'm running a 70% water, 30% coolant with Water Wetter. But I'm going to try something new this year.

I can't recommend this personally, but I'm certainly going to try it. If my research is good, it will give me not only a cooler running engine, it will also protect better against freeze and boil over compared to my current concoction.

Be careful not to use a coolant with abrasives (silicates, etc.)

After spending several weeks ryding in S. Fla in Feb with temps usually 75--85, I have to say I did not see any measureable improvement in the heat levels using LP. Maybe someone with a more serious heat problem might see more benefit but I cannot see any real justification for spending the $$ on this product....
Jack

 

[Craniac]

To the OP "Dat Guy". Say hello to my old stomping grounds for me. I was at MCAGCC at the Com School back in '92-'94. Rode my bicycle all year. I remember one day it was 123 in the shade. Did twenty miles and didn't overheat.

 

[Dat Guy]

To the OP "Dat Guy". Say hello to my old stomping grounds for me. I was at MCAGCC at the Com School back in '92-'94. Rode my bicycle all year. I remember one day it was 123 in the shade. Did twenty miles and didn't overheat.

Drive by there every day. Heading out into the field for two weeks tomorrow too. 123 degrees in August is pretty much the norm!