Considering a new exhaust?...read this!! Aftermarket exhaust problem solved!!

[Pete Denzer]

Just installed Hindle muffler during first oil change. Disconnected battery during lube and pipe job, reattached and allowed to idle 15 minutes, let cool for 15 minutes, checked torque on pipe collar and mount, rode home in rain. Runs perfectly, though the sound level is quite a shock until you get used to it. No popping or backfires. Seems to be running cooler. Idle was initially 50 to 100 rpms higher, now about the same as OEM, 1250-1350 rpms when fully warmed. Engine is definitely more responsive, snappier response and auto downshift is more pronounced. Curious to see if mileage improves; it should, as it's theoretically more efficient. The debate on whether or not to disconnect ECU is moot; why not just do it to make sure -- it certainly won't hurt.

 

[ptoemmes]

In the "other forum" there are also a couple of threads on - generally - air/fuel and it was stated by someone with a lot of experience with the Rotax (in general) that disconnecting the power for 20+ minutes clears the "block learn" tables.

I dunno I am only the piano player not the piano tuner - it's hard enough to join threads in one forum - try doing so across forums :gaah:

Maybe we can get Lamonster to fix his ECU like he did his GPS so we can see what's going on inside.

 

[mjw930]

The debate on whether or not to disconnect ECU is moot; why not just do it to make sure -- it certainly won't hurt.

Sure, it won't hurt and I wasn't trying to start a debate. I'm an engineer and as such I tend to like to know why I'm doing something. Also, if that something has no effect then I tend to not do it. I'm just anal that way hyea:

BTW, just pop the 40 AMP main fuse, it's a lot easier than removing the tupperware and achieves the same effect of removing power to the system that supports the ECM.

I still contend that based on the wiring diagrams all power is removed from the ECM when the ignition switch is turned off and as such it's highly unlikely (as in zero percent probability) that any tables are cleared within the ECM when power is removed.

 

[ptoemmes]

It is still certainly worth any effort you - or anyone else -c an shed on what is goign on.

I work in SW tech but not signal processing or process control and yet it still is of intense interest.

Is it possible the ECU is an off the shelf unit as is so much else on the Spyder?

Thanks,

Pete

 

[MSC954]

Okay here goes. I was wrong. I was wrong for listening to my dealer insted of YOU GUYS. I recently installed the Two Bros Dual exhaust. I went for look. It was a bit too loud so I put the tips in and its good now. What was really disappointing was it ran really rough and cough at slow speed starts and gearing down at a stop. It was obvious it wasnt running right so I called my dealer. They asked me to bring it in. Meanwhile, Magic Man told me to disconnect the battery to power down the ECU so it would pick up the new exhaust and adjust to it. I have also ready MANY threads on here that say to do just that!!! When I called my dealer they said that wouldnt help and to bring it in. So I listened like a trusting consumer does. They put their super duper Spyder mechanic on my bike yesterday and he also did the upgrade on my parking brake. The brake works great but after about an hour in the waiting room they tell me there is nothing they can do about the factory settings of the ECU. they hooked it to the diagnostic computer and everything is working "fine". All my friends who ride called "bull---" on that diagnosis!!:yikes:

So today I am getting ready to ride and decided to take on the prokect of disconnecting the battery. It took me about 10 mins to do this and I let the bike sit for about 20 mins while i wiped it down for my ride. Put it back together and started it up. WOW. It started at 2000 RPMS...idled up to 4500 rpms...then leveled off at 3000rpms. I let it idle about 12 mins. Interesting huh?...Why would it do that if the computer is set and cant be changed? I am no mechanic but not stupid!! It seemed like it was getting hot so I did and oh crap and turned it off after 12 mins. Let it cool down and started it again....1500 rpms perfect and no choking...idled fine. Took it for a spin around the block and OMG you guys were right. I am going to make a visit to my dealer tomorrow and recommend they join our website!!! Fortunately they worked with my bike yesterday and didnt charge me a penny. They wasted my time and theirs however when a simple battery disconnect would have done the trick!!:spyder:Sorry for the long post but me thinks everyone out there considering an aftermarket exhaust could benefit by hearing my story!!

I had the same problem on one of these bikes, I disconnected the battery just like you did but when I started it back up it didnt rev up like you said yours did, it went to 1400 rpms and stayed there. I took it for a ride and it runs like total crap, it spits and sputers at 3850- 4150 rpms and back fires out of the exhaust like crazy when you down shift it, its the SE5 model. Any ideas on what this could be. It has the 2Bros twin can exhaust and the 2Bros juice box. Thanks

 

[Babymoose]

Do you have a leak at the 'Y' collector. I put high temp sealant on my Hindle where it joins the original pipes and it seems to help.

 

[bone crusher]

Just installed Hindle muffler during first oil change. Disconnected battery during lube and pipe job, reattached and allowed to idle 15 minutes, let cool for 15 minutes, checked torque on pipe collar and mount, rode home in rain. Runs perfectly, though the sound level is quite a shock until you get used to it. No popping or backfires. Seems to be running cooler. Idle was initially 50 to 100 rpms higher, now about the same as OEM, 1250-1350 rpms when fully warmed. Engine is definitely more responsive, snappier response and auto downshift is more pronounced. Curious to see if mileage improves; it should, as it's theoretically more efficient. The debate on whether or not to disconnect ECU is moot; why not just do it to make sure -- it certainly won't hurt.

No need...you bike is configured for the hindle...it's a great pipe...