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Compressor blown

Indyron

New member
Just replaced the rear shock compressor on 2013 RT Ltd. Was wondering if heat issue (now fixed) on this model caused premature failure. Thoughts?
 
Hey Ron,

My 2010 compressor started operating noisily by it's 4th year, and in it's 5th it was frequently popping fuses. This spring I replaced it (myself -was a bit of a job but saved a ton of labor), and I'll rebuild the original (new brushes, lube, etc.) so it's ready to swap back in after a few more years go by.

I don't think mine was due to any overheat condition, but maybe just low cost components that are in the unit. It's possible though, that high heat could accelerate wear and reduce its life.

All I know is my machine feels brand new now that the compressor is barely audible. The original one got to be extremely (and embarrassingly) noisy before it got replaced.

Bill


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Doubt it

Has anything to do with heat issue. I just took my 13 RT-S to dealer to have compressor checked as it stopped working. Turns out the height position switch went bad so a new one was ordered. The switch sends power to the compressor to add air or release air so when it's not working you will get the "manually" warning on the dash. The tech wanted to make sure it wasn't the compressor so he took power directly from the battery while bike was running directly to the compressor to see if it would run and it did. Waiting for part now! Definitely wish BRP would have used a better compressor given the amount of money we've all paid. Better yet what if they would've used a compressor strong enough to provide air for the tires in the even of a flat while on the road. Just a thought!
 
Has anything to do with heat issue. I just took my 13 RT-S to dealer to have compressor checked as it stopped working. Turns out the height position switch went bad so a new one was ordered. The switch sends power to the compressor to add air or release air so when it's not working you will get the "manually" warning on the dash. The tech wanted to make sure it wasn't the compressor so he took power directly from the battery while bike was running directly to the compressor to see if it would run and it did. Waiting for part now! Definitely wish BRP would have used a better compressor given the amount of money we've all paid. Better yet what if they would've used a compressor strong enough to provide air for the tires in the even of a flat while on the road. Just a thought!

Air for tire maintenance is a great idea! That would have been a great "WOW" factor if they'd thought of it!


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The BRP compressor is kind of cheap.
If your system is leaking air it causes the compressor to run too much thus burning it out.

Some of us are replacing the stock compressor when it fails to this one.

But before you do, make sure you do not have a leak!
 

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Dealer service tech had RT for a week to diagnose, first switch, several tests, then on phone with BRP. Compressor shot, replaced, $600+ later I'm on the road.
 
Dealer service tech had RT for a week to diagnose, first switch, several tests, then on phone with BRP. Compressor shot, replaced, $600+ later I'm on the road.

To make sure you do not go through this again.
Check the shock pressure via the valve under your seat.
Then when you park 24 hrs later check it again. If it drops more than about 5 PSI you have a leak and it will wear out the pump again.

Bob
 
I just had the problem on my 13 RT Ltd. in my case, the bag developed a leak and compressor got burned out running to much. Make sure you don't have a leak in the bag. If you do you'll end up with a new compressor and bag rather than a bag now.
 
My 2014 RTS with 10,000 miles just got the "manual air setting orange screen today" Will not pump up air bag...I aired it up to 70 pounds manually but as soon as you start the bike it exhausts the air out to around 30 pounds...Dealer said they've been replacing lots of pumps this year...New pump ordered...

It would be nice, if when aired up manually, it would stay air up so you could ride it...Any ideas???

larryd
 
My 2014 RTS with 10,000 miles just got the "manual air setting orange screen today"


My 2014 RTS had its replaced this spring... 15,000 miles. Got very loud for a while when trying to work, got the orange screen as I was headed down the Garden State, then failed. I do not think it is a direct heat issue related to the 2013's -- sounds more like a design/quality issue on the pump.

Thank goodness for the warranty!

Bob
 
My compressor quit on Alaska trip. No compressor available. Dealer bypassed compressor with .15 cent fitting, no more problems and does not loose air. Carry a 12v compressor [$13.95] if for any reason I want to adjust the air through schrade valve under seat. Ride double 99% of time so leave aired up at 80 PSI.
Compressor plugs into battery maintainer plug if needed and good for tires etc.
Roger
 
Same problem

Just got my air compressor replaced on 2014 RTS SE-6 @ 20,000 miles. Fortunate I'm under extended warranty. BRP, do you have a quality control problem with these???
 
My 2014 RTS with 10,000 miles just got the "manual air setting orange screen today" Will not pump up air bag...I aired it up to 70 pounds manually but as soon as you start the bike it exhausts the air out to around 30 pounds...Dealer said they've been replacing lots of pumps this year...New pump ordered...

It would be nice, if when aired up manually, it would stay air up so you could ride it...Any ideas???

larryd
Sounds like you have a leak and may not be the compressor. Check it out and may save you $$$
 
My compressor quit on Alaska trip. No compressor available. Dealer bypassed compressor with .15 cent fitting, no more problems and does not loose air. Carry a 12v compressor [$13.95] if for any reason I want to adjust the air through schrade valve under seat. Ride double 99% of time so leave aired up at 80 PSI.
Compressor plugs into battery maintainer plug if needed and good for tires etc.
Roger

Could you be more specific about this by pass fix??? Did the dealer need to get into the compressor to bypass it or where exactly did this bypass take place???

THANK YOU, larryd
 
Sounds like you have a leak and may not be the compressor. Check it out and may save you $$$

When I manually air it up at the shrader valve it stays aired up until I set on the bike...Then you can hear it exhaust the air...

I'm thinking of unhooking the levelor rod and fastening it in the down or up position and see if it quits exhausting the air till the part arrives...larryd
 
When I manually air it up at the shrader valve it stays aired up until I set on the bike...Then you can hear it exhaust the air...

I'm thinking of unhooking the levelor rod and fastening it in the down or up position and see if it quits exhausting the air till the part arrives...larryd

That is going to be the release manifold. It is electrically controlled and yes the ride height sensor connected to the swing arm tells the system when to release air. While you may have a bad compressor, it also seems you may need buds to adjust the height sensor so it does not let air out.

Bob
 
The BRP compressor is kind of cheap.
If your system is leaking air it causes the compressor to run too much thus burning it out.

Some of us are replacing the stock compressor when it fails to this one.

But before you do, make sure you do not have a leak!

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=134792&d=1469890372
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=134793&d=1469890373

When installing this replacement pump make sure the end of the motor has clearance between it and the bike frame. It is a tight fit but it fits, you also need longer bolts for the motor mounts. One last thing, I had to replace several of the push on air fittings (I really dislike them) so I secured some standard compression fittings for plastic tubing (the ones with the brass ID insert) from Home Depot.

The air compressor can be secured from Amazon.com
 
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When installing this replacement pump make sure the end of the motor has clearance between it and the bike frame. It is a tight fit but it fits, you also need longer bolts for the motor mounts. One last thing, I had to replace several of the push on air fittings (I really dislike them) so I secured some standard compression fittings for plastic tubing (the ones with the brass ID insert) from Home Depot.

Interesting. I have a very slow leak that just recently developed. Tales 2-3 days for the bag pressure to drop to 10 PSI.

I am thinking it's a fitting rather than the bag or the check valve..

Can you give more info on these fittings you used?

Bob
 
Interesting. I have a very slow leak that just recently developed. Tales 2-3 days for the bag pressure to drop to 10 PSI.

I am thinking it's a fitting rather than the bag or the check valve..

Can you give more info on these fittings you used?

Bob

In every Home Depot in the plumbing aisle there is a wall of bagged brass tube fittings, you need a 1/4" OD tube compression fitting X 1/8" MPT (these are the fittings used to connect the plastic water line to your refrigerator) You will notice a 1/2" long by 1/8" dia. brass insert in the package that is to be inserted into the tubing before tightening the compression fitting. It prevents the collapse of the plastic tubing.
 
In every Home Depot in the plumbing aisle there is a wall of bagged brass tube fittings, you need a 1/4" OD tube compression fitting X 1/8" MPT (these are the fittings used to connect the plastic water line to your refrigerator) You will notice a 1/2" long by 1/8" dia. brass insert in the package that is to be inserted into the tubing before tightening the compression fitting. It prevents the collapse of the plastic tubing.

Thank you very much! Great info!

Bob
 
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