Has anything to do with heat issue. I just took my 13 RT-S to dealer to have compressor checked as it stopped working. Turns out the height position switch went bad so a new one was ordered. The switch sends power to the compressor to add air or release air so when it's not working you will get the "manually" warning on the dash. The tech wanted to make sure it wasn't the compressor so he took power directly from the battery while bike was running directly to the compressor to see if it would run and it did. Waiting for part now! Definitely wish BRP would have used a better compressor given the amount of money we've all paid. Better yet what if they would've used a compressor strong enough to provide air for the tires in the even of a flat while on the road. Just a thought!
Dealer service tech had RT for a week to diagnose, first switch, several tests, then on phone with BRP. Compressor shot, replaced, $600+ later I'm on the road.
My 2014 RTS with 10,000 miles just got the "manual air setting orange screen today"
Sounds like you have a leak and may not be the compressor. Check it out and may save you $$$My 2014 RTS with 10,000 miles just got the "manual air setting orange screen today" Will not pump up air bag...I aired it up to 70 pounds manually but as soon as you start the bike it exhausts the air out to around 30 pounds...Dealer said they've been replacing lots of pumps this year...New pump ordered...
It would be nice, if when aired up manually, it would stay air up so you could ride it...Any ideas???
larryd
My compressor quit on Alaska trip. No compressor available. Dealer bypassed compressor with .15 cent fitting, no more problems and does not loose air. Carry a 12v compressor [$13.95] if for any reason I want to adjust the air through schrade valve under seat. Ride double 99% of time so leave aired up at 80 PSI.
Compressor plugs into battery maintainer plug if needed and good for tires etc.
Roger
Sounds like you have a leak and may not be the compressor. Check it out and may save you $$$
When I manually air it up at the shrader valve it stays aired up until I set on the bike...Then you can hear it exhaust the air...
I'm thinking of unhooking the levelor rod and fastening it in the down or up position and see if it quits exhausting the air till the part arrives...larryd
The BRP compressor is kind of cheap.
If your system is leaking air it causes the compressor to run too much thus burning it out.
Some of us are replacing the stock compressor when it fails to this one.
But before you do, make sure you do not have a leak!
When installing this replacement pump make sure the end of the motor has clearance between it and the bike frame. It is a tight fit but it fits, you also need longer bolts for the motor mounts. One last thing, I had to replace several of the push on air fittings (I really dislike them) so I secured some standard compression fittings for plastic tubing (the ones with the brass ID insert) from Home Depot.
Interesting. I have a very slow leak that just recently developed. Tales 2-3 days for the bag pressure to drop to 10 PSI.
I am thinking it's a fitting rather than the bag or the check valve..
Can you give more info on these fittings you used?
Bob
In every Home Depot in the plumbing aisle there is a wall of bagged brass tube fittings, you need a 1/4" OD tube compression fitting X 1/8" MPT (these are the fittings used to connect the plastic water line to your refrigerator) You will notice a 1/2" long by 1/8" dia. brass insert in the package that is to be inserted into the tubing before tightening the compression fitting. It prevents the collapse of the plastic tubing.