compress piston on 2008 rs

[tbjohnson10]

was changing out the back tire on my byke today. While the wheel was off, the brakes pedal was pushed and the piston is pushing the two brake pads together--how do I compress the piston so there is room to fit the rotor between the pads? it seems the newer bykes have notches to fit pliers in to twist it back in, but mine does not have those. thanks

 

[UtahPete]

was changing out the back tire on my byke today. While the wheel was off, the brakes pedal was pushed and the piston is pushing the two brake pads together--how do I compress the piston so there is room to fit the rotor between the pads? it seems the newer bykes have notches to fit pliers in to twist it back in, but mine does not have those. thanks

Hi, I notice you're new to the forum. Welcome.

I think the secret to getting help with something like this is to have a descriptive thread title. Yours is a little ambiguous. I suggest something like "Need help with rear brakes on 2008 RS". If you do that (post a new thread) please be sure to pull this one. Thanks.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

was changing out the back tire on my byke today. While the wheel was off, the brakes pedal was pushed and the piston is pushing the two brake pads together--how do I compress the piston so there is room to fit the rotor between the pads? it seems the newer bykes have notches to fit pliers in to twist it back in, but mine does not have those. thanks

It doesn’t twist. Since you have an early RS/GS, this series of videos may help you for all kinds of things. Rear brake info is video #10.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ntufun-Style-Updated-Version&highlight=brakes

 

[tbjohnson10]

thank you, the videos should be of great help.Now if I could just get the "brake failure" message to go away. Just popped up last week, after I had been on vacation and hadnt ryden the byke for 10 days.

Brake pads all have life still in them,
Fluid has been topped off in both reservoirs,
all 3 lines have been bled,
no leaking break fluid on the garage floor
--brakes are still working like they have since I bought it 6 weeks ago.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

thank you, the videos should be of great help.Now if I could just get the "brake failure" message to go away. Just popped up last week, after I had been on vacation and hadnt ryden the byke for 10 days.

Brake pads all have life still in them,
Fluid has been topped off in both reservoirs,
all 3 lines have been bled,
no leaking break fluid on the garage floor
--brakes are still working like they have since I bought it 6 weeks ago.

Knowing what the code is will help, but I’m not knowledgeable on how to do that on an 08. You could try a search for that. Somebody knows. However, in the chance that the brake failure was due to picking up the low pressure switch, due to a soft pedal, try this....

Turn the key on and wait until it fully boots up.
Press down HARD on the brake pedal and hold it.
Turn the key off and wait until it completely shuts down. Wait 30 seconds just to be sure.
Only then release the brake pedal.
The fault should be cleared the next power up. If not try again.

Of course, do this after you get everything put back together.

 

[tbjohnson10]

sorry forgot to put that in my previous post--code is 1282 (there will be an "O C " before the 1282, not sure if that makes a difference)

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

sorry forgot to put that in my previous post--code is 1282 (there will be an "O C " before the 1282, not sure if that makes a difference)

Well, that would be C1282 and the procedure above should clear it as long as all of the work that you did corrected the original problem. If so, bleeding the lines would have been the fix, I would think. If you search the forum for C1282 you'll find all kinds of stuff on that so I won't repeat it here. If you've corrected the problem and you get that reset procedure to work, you should be good to go. After you turn the key on and wait for the system to boot up, you might also have to push the Mode switch and get past the safety card screen, too. Sometimes that is required. If your hearing is good, you might hear two clicks when you push hard on the pedal. The first one is the regular brake light switch. The second is the low pressure switch. But, if your pedal is now nice and firm, the pedal won't travel that far to the second switch. The computer will see adequate pressure and reset the brake failure and code. Good luck, and by the way, if you're so inclined, repair manuals for these things are out there for around 20 bucks on CD or for download. If you're a DIY'er they help a lot. Google is your friend for that.