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Code P0340

gazunni

New member
Hello All

Need some help!

Got a Code P0340 and a limp home mode today. Fortunately was within a few miles of home. Looked up on Spyder Codes and it indicates it is a Crankshaft Position sensor.
The dealer however indicates that Code is a camshaft position sensor.
i have gone through all the posts and some say cam and others say crank, which is correct?
 
It is CAMshaft position sensor. Easy to replace yourself. Located next to oil filter. Pretty common failure. Also check left fuse box fuse F18 and make sure its not blown.
 
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Thanks, I have a 2016 RTS. I don’t see that specific fuse number. What is the fuse description for that F18 fuse?

It is CAMshaft position sensor. Easy to replace yourself. Located next to oil filter. Pretty common failure. Also check left fuse box fuse F18 and make sure its not blown.
 
The camshaft position sensor is abbreviated as CAPS. I think there is a misprint in the manual for the fuse number. It is fuse F8. But I doubt the fuse is blown, because the bike will not run if it is.
 
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My Dad just got the same code on his 2017 RT with just over 3K miles on it. He had it towed to the shop for warranty repair.
 
Just a follow-up. The cam sensor was replaced. The Service manager indicated that he has seen this several times and 90% of the time they find oil in the sensor connection which shorts across the terminals and causes the Code. While it can be replaced yourself, I believe it needs to be hooked up to BUDDS to clear the codes and ensure calibration.
Seems like a part redesign is necessary, or there was a batch of poor quality sensors as many people seem to be having this issue.


Hello All

Need some help!

Got a Code P0340 and a limp home mode today. Fortunately was within a few miles of home. Looked up on Spyder Codes and it indicates it is a Crankshaft Position sensor.
The dealer however indicates that Code is a camshaft position sensor.
i have gone through all the posts and some say cam and others say crank, which is correct?
 
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Had the same issue 3 times on my 2013 RTL. If the computer doesn't know what position the cam is in it retards the timing and the bike goes into limp mode. Sometimes they backfire when decelerating, as mine did. I ponied up the $50 the third time, as by then I was out of the factory warranty and in the BEST warranty, which I think is great. Gonna buy it for my new Spyder as well.
 
I was also in BEST warranty and paid the $50, but they also replaced the seat as it was tearing for the second time at the pointy part where it meets the glove box. Another poor design.

Had the same issue 3 times on my 2013 RTL. If the computer doesn't know what position the cam is in it retards the timing and the bike goes into limp mode. Sometimes they backfire when decelerating, as mine did. I ponied up the $50 the third time, as by then I was out of the factory warranty and in the BEST warranty, which I think is great. Gonna buy it for my new Spyder as well.
 
Camshaft position sensor "Easy to replace yourself"

It is CAMshaft position sensor. Easy to replace yourself. Located next to oil filter. Pretty common failure. Also check left fuse box fuse F18 and make sure its not blown.

Ok Joel, got in there today and got all the way into the loosing of the bolt for the sensor. As they say no guts no glory! Any tips on getting the bolt out without dropping it into the engine and then trying to get the new sensor back in? Just seems like a hole I don't wanna dig! Any pointers or videos on this would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
 
I changed my sensor in a couple minutes.If youre worried about dropping the screw then stuff a rag down into the area below the screw so if you drop it will fall onto the rag.Put oil on o ring to make it slide in easier.
 
Got it!

I changed my sensor in a couple minutes.If you're worried about dropping the screw then stuff a rag down into the area below the screw so if you drop it will fall onto the rag.Put oil on o ring to make it slide in easier.

It too a little longer than a couple of minutes but the rag was used just like you recommended and I left the wire connected until it was out. A long pair of needle nose pliers came in handy too. Then I plugged the wire into the new one before installing and in she went! Definitely tight quarters!
Now just got to take to the dealer to do the BUDS check.

Thanks for the help!
 
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