• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Clutch slipping at higher revs.

Insy

Member
Hello from the Rainbow Nation.
The patient : 2009 SE5, K&N filter,02 Modifier, non cat split pipes.
When changing from 1st into 2nd at around 5000 RPM the change is immediate and direct. However when changing from 1st into 2nd at anything higher , I.E. when cranking it, the clutch slips. Same applies through all the gears. I can't say whether the engine temp has anything to do with it as I never give it horns when the engine isn't good and warmed up.
I have read a number of threads on the forum which make mention of oil pressure being a possible culprit and would appreciate feedback / comment from fellow :spyder2: owners who may have experienced / solved this problem.
Wait to hear and you all ride safe.
 
The bike has 6,990 Km on the clock and has BRP XPS oil. Oil last changed at 5,000 Km by local Spyder service agents.
 
Barnett heavy duty clutch springs, frictions & steels from Aprilia Sport 1000S (2007-09) Kit #*306-25-10003*. :D
 
The bike has 6,990 Km on the clock and has BRP XPS oil. Oil last changed at 5,000 Km by local Spyder service agents.


It seems to me it busts BRP's theory or rather their directive, about using only their oil in the SE5.
 
It seems to me it busts BRP's theory or rather their directive, about using only their oil in the SE5.


With the lack of information on why the Clutch is slipping [or not]?
I think it's a little too early to blame the type oil being used.:dontknow:
 
I read in another thread about the clutch springs on an SE5 having to be replaced under warranty because they had weakened, might have your dealer check it out.

john
 
Hello from the Rainbow Nation.
The patient : 2009 SE5, K&N filter,02 Modifier, non cat split pipes.
When changing from 1st into 2nd at around 5000 RPM the change is immediate and direct. However when changing from 1st into 2nd at anything higher , I.E. when cranking it, the clutch slips. Same applies through all the gears. I can't say whether the engine temp has anything to do with it as I never give it horns when the engine isn't good and warmed up.
I have read a number of threads on the forum which make mention of oil pressure being a possible culprit and would appreciate feedback / comment from fellow :spyder2: owners who may have experienced / solved this problem.
Wait to hear and you all ride safe.

Try not being so aggressive and see if it slips. I know it's not "macho" to do so, but the Spyder will abuse you as much as you abuse it.
 
Try not being so aggressive and see if it slips. I know it's not "macho" to do so, but the Spyder will abuse you as much as you abuse it.

I tend to agree here. SE5's were not really made to be bangin' gears like that! At what RPM are you shifting? I have found with our SE5 that if I really want to be aggressive with it I roll off throttle, shift and then get on it again. You have to be very quick about it because the tranny shifts very fast. For some reason it helps relieve some of that hi-speed slip and lag. But really the best solution was just to take it down a notch and shift at a slightly different point in the band where it won't slip. Didn't hurt performance one bit and I know I am saving the clutch that way. Just food for thought. :D
 
I tend to agree here. SE5's were not really made to be bangin' gears like that! At what RPM are you shifting? I have found with our SE5 that if I really want to be aggressive with it I roll off throttle, shift and then get on it again. You have to be very quick about it because the tranny shifts very fast. For some reason it helps relieve some of that hi-speed slip and lag. But really the best solution was just to take it down a notch and shift at a slightly different point in the band where it won't slip. Didn't hurt performance one bit and I know I am saving the clutch that way. Just food for thought. :D
Sorry Bro but I have to strongly disagree here. The SE is made to shift wide open an you should not roll out of the throttle. When the SE first came out all the guys at BRP were telling me that they loved the SE because you could hold it wide open and bang the gears and that made it faster than the SM. I didn't believe them till I tried it myself. The SE is a hotrod tranny and should be shifted like one. His issue is not the oil but most likely there is a plate height issue or a valving issue.
 
Sorry Bro but I have to strongly disagree here. The SE is made to shift wide open an you should not roll out of the throttle. When the SE first came out all the guys at BRP were telling me that they loved the SE because you could hold it wide open and bang the gears and that made it faster than the SM. I didn't believe them till I tried it myself. The SE is a hotrod tranny and should be shifted like one. His issue is not the oil but most likely there is a plate height issue or a valving issue.
I'm on your side. The SE tranny (shifting mechanism) and clutch should be able to outprform the SM, if there is nothing wrong with it.
 
I totally agree that the issue here is not the oil. And in theory you guys are absolutely correct about the SE5; in practice however it doesn't work that way. I love the SE5 and have never had an issue with shifting under most circumstances but on the upshift at high tourque the SE5 just doesn't grab like the SM5. No way does an SE5 beat an SM5 under severe riding conditions. I have one of each and I'll take the SM5 every time. But that is just me and what I decide to put my trust in. It doesn't make me wrong or right, this is just what I have experienced first-hand.
 
I totally agree that the issue here is not the oil. And in theory you guys are absolutely correct about the SE5; in practice however it doesn't work that way. I love the SE5 and have never had an issue with shifting under most circumstances but on the upshift at high tourque the SE5 just doesn't grab like the SM5. No way does an SE5 beat an SM5 under severe riding conditions. I have one of each and I'll take the SM5 every time. But that is just me and what I decide to put my trust in. It doesn't make me wrong or right, this is just what I have experienced first-hand.
I don't really consider this a high torque motor but I have both the SM and SE and my findings are right inline with the techs at BRP. I guess we can agree to disagree. :doorag:
 
I don't really consider this a high torque motor but I have both the SM and SE and my findings are right inline with the techs at BRP. I guess we can agree to disagree. :doorag:

I hear ya Boss. :thumbup: I think I am just biased towards the SM5! :D Again, let me state that I love the SE5 also and at the end of the day when one of these Spyders gets traded for the 2-wheeler of my choice the RS-S with the SE5 will be the one we keep. My Wife absolutely LOVES it so that is what will be!
 
When I rode the SE5 I was pretty impressed with the shifting...... but was wondering if it can catch the rear tire between gears?

I can catch them when I use the clutch-- but not when I shift without the clutch-- which is often!:D
 
Thank you all for the feedback.
As no apparent solution has emerged I have suggested to myself that I go with Lamonsters train of thought.
(I have great faith in Lamonsters opinions which always seem well considered)
"Plate height issue" and "Valving issue" ?
Are these adjustments that can be made or are we talking about major surgery?
Appreciated.
 
Back
Top