Clutch sensor (?) Wiring

[Weave2u]

I installed the risers, which left the wires going to what I guess is a sensor for the clutch very tight when turned full right. Would it be ok to add some wire somewhere along the middle of the run, or has anyone found a routing that works better? Thanks! Sorry, I'm no mechanic, so I'm just guessing it's a clutch sensor.

 

[boborgera]

I installed the risers, which left the wires going to what I guess is a sensor for the clutch very tight when turned full right. Would it be ok to add some wire somewhere along the middle of the run, or has anyone found a routing that works better? Thanks! Sorry, I'm no mechanic, so I'm just guessing it's a clutch sensor.

:dontknow:
Are you sure you cut off all the zip ties that hold it, Some of those ties are hard to find.

 

[Weave2u]

:dontknow:
Are you sure you cut off all the zip ties that hold it, Some of those ties are hard to find.

I thought I had. should it be looser?

 

[boborgera]

I thought I had. should it be looser?

We are talking about the starter engagement switch on the clutch lever ?
If so then If all the ties are cut it should be lose [long] enough.:dontknow:

 

[Firefly]

I thought I had. should it be looser?

You should be able to get enough slack so as not to need to extend the wires--- but it will be close at full right turn--- which is rare that you'll ever turn like that.

If you do need to splice it --- just use good wire and waterproof heat-shrink tubing and you should be fine. I believe all the switch does is not allow you to engage the starter if the clutch lever is out.

 

[Weave2u]

I'll check to see if I loosened it all the way then! Thanks everyone!

 

[Jesse]

clutch sensor wire

I just did mine yesterday and the the wire goes into the hole in the square metal tube and runs forward where it comes out of the tube towards the front of the bike there is a zip tie on the right front (if sitting on bike) of the square metal tube once cut you can pull the clutch wire and there is about 6 inches of extra wire which provides more then enough length. I screwed around with this problem for a good hour before I traced the wire through the tube and cut the right zip tie. It is not easy to reach. Also I did not see anything on the direction about removing the black plastic spacer on the throttle side of the original handle bars between the grey top cover and the throttle switch assembly, at first I left it there and then later realized it should be removed and had to re-cut the handle bar tubing. I then cut down this spacer enough and put in on the new handle bar between the aluminum upright and the throttle switch assembly. I think it make for a cleaner look.

 

[Weave2u]

I just did mine yesterday and the the wire goes into the hole in the square metal tube and runs forward where it comes out of the tube towards the front of the bike there is a zip tie on the right front (if sitting on bike) of the square metal tube once cut you can pull the clutch wire and there is about 6 inches of extra wire which provides more then enough length. I screwed around with this problem for a good hour before I traced the wire through the tube and cut the right zip tie. It is not easy to reach. Also I did not see anything on the direction about removing the black plastic spacer on the throttle side of the original handle bars between the grey top cover and the throttle switch assembly, at first I left it there and then later realized it should be removed and had to re-cut the handle bar tubing. I then cut down this spacer enough and put in on the new handle bar between the aluminum upright and the throttle switch assembly. I think it make for a cleaner look.

Hey I appreciate the info Jesse :thumbup: ! I notice that your risers look different than mine do. I ran the throttle cables through the risers (mine is shaped more like a slot). I'll go back and locate that zip tie!! :spyder:

:f_spider: on!!

 

[Arthur---Mexico]

FIRERFLY'S RECOMMENDATION IS COMPLETELY AN ERROR. Do not try to solder or fasten, in any other way, an extension on any mechanical cable. You have to find a supplier like Barrnet for a longer cable. The outter sheath or tubing has to be increased in length the same amount as the wire in it is. There's no other lower cost way.

 

[Y Rider]

FIRERFLY'S RECOMMENDATION IS COMPLETELY AN ERROR. Do not try to solder or fasten, in any other way, an extension on any mechanical cable. You have to find a supplier like Barrnet for a longer cable. The outter sheath or tubing has to be increased in length the same amount as the wire in it is. There's no other lower cost way.

I believe FireFly was referring to the switch only. Not the clutch cable.

 

[AMTJIM]

Clutch cable?

 

[boborgera]

I believe FireFly was referring to the switch only. Not the clutch cable.

:agree:Switch wire only, NOT clutch cable.:thumbup:

 

[sandrunr1]

I have now installed risers on my :spyder2: and my friends. Mine were the 41/2" easy risers, his were the 3" because he has a 1" riser from dealer already installed. You only have to cut one tie. If you take the top plastic on the right side, and the piece that covers the area near the swing arm, you can reach in, up and near the front where there is a 2" loop with a zip tie. Cut that tie and you can pull all the wire you will need. Worked both times for me and only cut one tie. Good Luck. No pictures. Just have to look.

 

[Weave2u]

Based on Jesse's description, I traced the wires (not cables) into the square tube and, not sure how, I managed to loosen it up and now I have plenty of line, like everyone had said. After all that monkeying around, the insulation tube had pulled away from the top of the lead, near the sensor. I used some black sealant/adhesive and a wire tie to fix that up. Thanks everyone!! :thumbup:

:f_spider: on!!