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Clutch Fluid Issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter arntufun
  • Start date Start date
A

arntufun

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I have a slight leak where the plunger pushes in when you pull the clutch lever in. It's not alot but enough to see a speck appear on my yellow top cover every now and then. I know brake fluid is not good for the paint and I need to get this fixed.

Here is a couple of questions for people that would know about the workings of a clutch. Thank for your help in advance. I might have more questions depending on the answers I get from you.



1. Is this part a wear item not covered under warranty ?
2. Do I need to replace the whole fluid reservoir or can that plunger seal be rebuilt ?
3. Is that plunger something that can be tightened to stop the seepage ?



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Sorry not a lot of help but what the hay .Simple fix for your clutch problem. Get a RT Auto, no more seepage and it will make Holly happy ! :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:
 
I have a slight leak where the plunger pushes in when you pull the clutch lever in. It's not alot but enough to see a speck appear on my yellow top cover every now and then. I know brake fluid is not good for the paint and I need to get this fixed.

Here is a couple of questions for people that would know about the workings of a clutch. Thank for your help in advance. I might have more questions depending on the answers I get from you.



1. Is this part a wear item not covered under warranty ?
2. Do I need to replace the whole fluid reservoir or can that plunger seal be rebuilt ?
3. Is that plunger something that can be tightened to stop the seepage ?

Without putting too much effort into this, (all used up on the mysterious Throttle Box Knob issue) here is my best, 2 cents worth, guesses.


1. Is this part a wear item not covered under warranty ? Yes, this is a wear item not covered under warranty
2. Do I need to replace the whole fluid reservoir or can that plunger seal be rebuilt ? I'd say an o-ring is all you'd need as long as the shaft is not damaged, but probably not available seperately from BRP. I couldn't find the MC in the BRP parts listing but it's not the 1st time I've not been able to find something there. I'm sure the dealer would know.
3. Is that plunger something that can be tightened to stop the seepage ? No.

Short answer, you're probably going to need the whole assembly. Longer answer is you may be able to find the O-Ring and replace it even if BRP does not sell it seperately.

Your last ray of hope is that you may be able to reduce the flow of brake fluid by adjusting the knob at the bottom of the Throttle Box! :roflblack:
 
Ok, I found the clutch MC in the BRP parts listing. Silly me! I was looking under 'Clutch Assembly'. Why would ANYONE look there? Of course the clutch MC is listed under 'Engine 1 - SM5 Manual'. How could I not have realized this!? I am really losing it these days!

But moving on....

It shows part #707000381 for $98.49 and there is 1 available! You get the lever, reservoir housing, plunger, O-Ring, etc., assembled (I'm sure).

Or, if you could find the O-Ring you'd be good for about $0.50!
 
You know... HDX will, I'm sure, be happy to tell you how to contact a Harley shop for trade-in information...
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Thanks Ron for your help on this. Lets say I replace the whole assembly, would I have to bleed the air out by the engine, or should it be ok just swapping it out ??


I'm having alot of trouble finding the throttle box lever. Do you think you could post a picture of that so called lever ??? :roflblack:
 
I don't agree with Ron that this is a normal wear item. If we count every moving part as a wear item, there will be nothing left to warranty. I'd certainly run it by the dealer first if my Spyder was still under warranty.

If you do replace the MC, the system will have to be filled and bled. IMO, vacuum bleeding from the top would be best.
 
I don't agree with Ron that this is a normal wear item. If we count every moving part as a wear item, there will be nothing left to warranty. I'd certainly run it by the dealer first if my Spyder was still under warranty.

If you do replace the MC, the system will have to be filled and bled. IMO, vacuum bleeding from the top would be best.

I agree, it never hurts to run it by the dealer. Certainly the MC should be leak free for at least the length of the warranty. It was simply my opinion that it would not be covered. I hope Scotty is right and I am wrong.

I worked in a brake specialty shop for many years and there are ways around bleeding the system even when changing out a MC. But you'd better plan on bleeding the entire system like Scotty said.

Pictures? :dontknow: We don't need no stinking pictures! :lecturef_smilie:
 
CLUTCH LEAK

I could be wrong here but, most things that are assembled can also be dis-assembled. check with the dealer first of course and hopefully it's a warranteed part. If not, after you put it away for the season take a crack at dis-assembly and see if you can do something with a leaky seal.....That might not be the problem though. ?? My guess is they figured that piston was going to go back and forth like a zillion times so should the seal be leaking ???....Just some thoughts ...good luck....Mike...:thumbup:
 
update

Called dealer 830 am and gave him my info of what I need. He said he will check with the warranty company and call me right back.


Called dealer at 230 pm (because he was supposed to call me right back). Dealer said he was so busy he never got a chance to call. Dealer promises me he will get back to me before days end.

Called dealer at 550 pm (they close at 6pm) service dept was closed and left for the day.

And people wonder why I think what I think about service depts.
 
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Called dealer 830 am and gave him my info of what I need. He said he will check with the warranty company and call me right back.


Called dealer at 230 pm (because he was supposed to call me right back). Dealer said he was so busy he never got a chance to call. Dealer promises me he will get back to me before days end.

Called dealer at 550 pm (they close at 6pm) service dept was closed and left for the day.

And people wonder why I think what I think about service depts.

Really!! You have a opinion about dealerships? :dontknow:
 
Really!! You have a opinion about dealerships? :dontknow:



I'm sorry, I should have not said that last sentence. :opps: It just gets me so frustrated when a two minute phone call to the warranty company could of got the ball rolling with the part ordered and service appointment scheduled. :gaah:

I even made it easy on him (thanks to you Ron) by giving him the part number of what I needed.
 
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I'm sorry, I should have not said that last sentence. :opps: It just gets me so frustrated when a two minute phone call to the warranty company could of got the ball rolling with the part ordered and service appointment scheduled. :gaah:

I even made it easy on him (thanks to you Ron) by giving him the part number of what I needed.

Not a problem, just my weak attempt to agree with you that the treatment was less than stellar.

Some dealerships tell you what you want to hear so you don't notice their hand in your pocket.

Some delaerships go way beyond the call of duty.

And there are a lot of dealerships inbetween. If you're riding one of the big name machines you may have several dealerships to choose from. With a Can-Am your choices are usually limited. It's the nature of the beast but doesn't mean you should be ok with it.

I feel your pain!
 
38 minutes !!! So why do you have to get me fired up so early in the morning. :roflblack::roflblack:
 
I don't agree with Ron that this is a normal wear item. If we count every moving part as a wear item, there will be nothing left to warranty. I'd certainly run it by the dealer first if my Spyder was still under warranty.

If you do replace the MC, the system will have to be filled and bled. IMO, vacuum bleeding from the top would be best.



Do you have to have a special tool to do this vaacuum bleeding ?? How would one go about doing this ??
 
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