• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Clunk When putting into Gear - is it normal, or what?

Back when I read the entire owner's manual for my new 2015 RTS SE6, it called this neutral-to-first clunk "positive engagement".
 
I get the "clunk" when going into gear on both :ani29:'s AND my 900 Vulcan.

On my poor, old, slow V-Max I get the clunk if I don't do the following-------- pull the clutch in and release 6 or 7 times. Then no clunk. Haven't heard much about a :spyder2: gear box failing. MY 2014 has had NO problems.
Lew L
 
Yeah what they said. Really loud in garage with cold engine. Ipull it out let it warm up for sure SE6 Tran. We live in the city have large drive way. We only have 1 rule no one backs out into the street! WE meet here everyone is in gear and takes off smoothly. The time it takes to go from R to 1st could be a problem. I have used my extended warrenty and glad we've had it. So do not freak on the small stuff. Join a group of SPYDER RYDERS! They helped me to buy what is needed, avoid the $$ pitfalls. Taught me how to do maintence and best of all how to have a good time. Happy safe miles.
 
Motorcycles are kinda like helicopters. Some people refer to some of both as choppers. The standard safety briefing for a CH-47 (Chinook) includes a warning about hydraulic fluid on the rear ramp is a slip hazard when entering/exiting the aircraft, followed immediately by the crew chief saying, "And if there isn't any leaking onto the ramp, don't get on board. It means the bird is OUT of hydraulic fluid." If you stop hearing/feeling that clunk, don't try to ride it!

Kinda like an aircraft radial engine. When it is not running, if it is not leaking oil, don't start it...it is out of oil.
 
The CLUNK - Yep, what everyone else said ….. however, if it really, really upsets you or others … The warmer the engine is, I believe the less it will CLUNK …… at least that has been my observation..... Personally since the CLUNK isn't at all harmful, is it worth the time and Gas to diminish the CLUNK ….. Test out my theory and decide for yourself …… good luck …. Mike :ohyea:

Well said! Mine is a 2010 SE5, and still being a very [unusual] February here in the Northeast, I’ve gotten my first rides in as a Spyder owner. I too, was worried about the Clunk, but as you stated, it definitely calms down once the engine reaches full temp. I do find that it still clunks when downshifting, regardless of if I do it, or just let the bike do it itself, which is usually the case. We get lazier in our old age lol.
 
I've posted and explained the procedure here before as to how to avoid the clunk if it worries or annoys you. The clunk is because of the type of transmission BRP chose to use in their spyders. There is also a full explanation of the transmission along with pictures posted here on this site. In short, after the engine fires watch the tach, and as the needle rises and just before its high point and before drops, make your shift into first or reverse and there will be no clunk. It takes practice to find that sweet spot, but it's there, believe me. I'm getting better and better at catching it myself. I'm getting it now about 80% of the time. Good luck, it takes practice.
 
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