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Checking The Oil Level

As I understand it French is the legally required first language in Quebec which means all documentation must be prepared in French and then translated. It makes no difference the largest market base is English. Another issue I've seen is inconsistency in the the nomenclature of parts. Look for microswitch in the manual. You won't find it even though that is the universal English word for the switch for the frunk lid and the parking brake pulley.
 
To give you an idea of just how much of s**t BRP doesn't give about the up to date status of their operator's guides just look at pg 131-132 of your op guide. The picture of the Spyder on a rollback truck is exactly the same pic that appeared in their 2008 op guide. Yes, the principles of transporting our three wheeled vehicles haven't changed but you'd think the company selling the vehicles would at least update photographs to correspond with the vehicles manufactured in the MY of the op guide. Would Harley, or Honda, or Kawasaki or BMW use 13 year old pictures? Hell no!

Yes , but BRP is like any other company out there that don't want to spend any more money than they have to, and want to do more with less! Like not change there body styles for how long from start to now? Making us do more R+D for them, and then not owning up to there screw ups and making us pay for them! On and on and the worse part is they are all doing it, and not just bikes! :gaah:
 
Okay, went for a ten mile ride, stopped the motor and checked the oil level within 2 minutes of stopping the engine. Oil level read completely full, up to the upper ball on the dipstick.

Immediately restarted the engine, let it idle for 10 minutes, stop the engine and within 2 minutes checked the oil again and got the exact same reading as the first check above.

*after stopping the bike at the ten mile mark, I did not move it until after both readings were completed, i.e. both readings taken with the bike in the exact same position no chance in different levelness (word?) having any affect on the reading.

That’s the last time I’ll let it idle 10 minutes just to check the oil.
 
Lot's of good info. My problem is being able to actually see the oil on the almost same color dipstick. I guess I need dirtier oil.
 
Okay, went for a ten mile ride, stopped the motor and checked the oil level within 2 minutes of stopping the engine. Oil level read completely full, up to the upper ball on the dipstick.

Immediately restarted the engine, let it idle for 10 minutes, stop the engine and within 2 minutes checked the oil again and got the exact same reading as the first check above.

*after stopping the bike at the ten mile mark, I did not move it until after both readings were completed, i.e. both readings taken with the bike in the exact same position no chance in different levelness (word?) having any affect on the reading.

That’s the last time I’ll let it idle 10 minutes just to check the oil.
Thanks for doing that little bit of research. Bob have you thought of using Lew's suggestion? Or to make a mark at the right level.
 
Okay, went for a ten mile ride, stopped the motor and checked the oil level within 2 minutes of stopping the engine. Oil level read completely full, up to the upper ball on the dipstick.

Immediately restarted the engine, let it idle for 10 minutes, stop the engine and within 2 minutes checked the oil again and got the exact same reading as the first check above.

*after stopping the bike at the ten mile mark, I did not move it until after both readings were completed, i.e. both readings taken with the bike in the exact same position no chance in different levelness (word?) having any affect on the reading.

That’s the last time I’ll let it idle 10 minutes just to check the oil.

I let it run till the fan runs, then shut it down, check, good to go!!!
 
I let it run till the fan runs, then shut it down, check, good to go!!!

Do you mean after riding for 9 miles or more you let it idle until the fan runs or do you mean from a cold start up you let it idle until the fan runs without any miles driven?
 
I am with you shipmate....(USN USS Yosemite AD19)...I have 300 miles on odometer and following the owners manual that tells you to check the oil at 300miles...I have yet been able to see the oil level on the dipstick. With or without 10 mile and 10 minutes....is there a secret to seeing clean oil on a yellow dipstick? I am open to any suggestions.
 
I ......I have yet been able to see the oil level on the dipstick. With or without 10 mile and 10 minutes....is there a secret to seeing clean oil on a yellow dipstick? I am open to any suggestions.

As Lew suggested in p oost #25, it's not hard. :thumbup:

Just get yourself some paper towel, and lay it down near the Spyder. Do whatever it takes to extract the dipstick and immediately lay it down on the paper towel. The (wet?) oil will immediately start to 'wick out' into the absorbent paper - the wet mark you can clearly see on the paper & adjacent to the dipstick where it is closest to the top of the dipstick will reveal the oil level! :ohyea:

Easy as! :cheers:
 
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Thanks, I'll give it a go this afternoon.....really can't understand why BRP made the whole oil thing so involved...Thanks again...
 
Thanks, I'll give it a go this afternoon.....really can't understand why BRP made the whole oil thing so involved...Thanks again...

Let me offer a variation of an explanation above that may help you understand why the procedure is what it is. Think of a tank with three connections. One is at the top where oil is pumped into the tank from a small pool in the sump under the crankshaft. The second one is at the bottom that connects to the oil pump so oil from the tank is pumped through all the engine parts. The third is a small connection to the sump under the crankshaft. When the engine is running the oil sucked up from the sump is the same flow rate as the oil that drains to the sump via the small connection plus the oil pumped throughout the engine. The oil pumped throughout the engine drains down to the sump. When you shut down the engine the oil flow via the pumps into and out of the tank stops. But oil continues to drain down to the sump through the small connection. Checking the oil level in the sump wouldn't work because it keeps going up as the tank drains down. Checking oil level in the tank works as long as you check within a short time after shutting off the engine. If you wait too long the tank will drain down and oil level will be low. In fact, if you wait a really long time, like a few months, the oil in the tank will drain down so far it won't touch the dipstick.

So the reason for running the engine for awhile first and then checking within a couple of minutes is to make sure the oil flow, i.e., the amount going into and out of the tank, has been stabilized and then is measured before it drops very much. The high and low points on the dip stick are the oil levels in the tank the engine designers have determined provide the ideal amount of oil for the engine to function properly.
 
Let me offer a variation of an explanation above that may help you understand why the procedure is what it is. Think of a tank with three connections. One is at the top where oil is pumped into the tank from a small pool in the sump under the crankshaft. The second one is at the bottom that connects to the oil pump so oil from the tank is pumped through all the engine parts. The third is a small connection to the sump under the crankshaft. When the engine is running the oil sucked up from the sump is the same flow rate as the oil that drains to the sump via the small connection plus the oil pumped throughout the engine. The oil pumped throughout the engine drains down to the sump. When you shut down the engine the oil flow via the pumps into and out of the tank stops. But oil continues to drain down to the sump through the small connection. Checking the oil level in the sump wouldn't work because it keeps going up as the tank drains down. Checking oil level in the tank works as long as you check within a short time after shutting off the engine. If you wait too long the tank will drain down and oil level will be low. In fact, if you wait a really long time, like a few months, the oil in the tank will drain down so far it won't touch the dipstick.

So the reason for running the engine for awhile first and then checking within a couple of minutes is to make sure the oil flow, i.e., the amount going into and out of the tank, has been stabilized and then is measured before it drops very much. The high and low points on the dip stick are the oil levels in the tank the engine designers have determined provide the ideal amount of oil for the engine to function properly.

Is there a printable skematic somewhere that would show the oil flow process that you so eloquently described?
 
An excellent explanation, Mac! I agree w/- 2dogs; a schematic would be great to put this issue to bed for good.
 
I think there's a diagram in the service manual but I'm away from home until after the Fourth and don't have a copy on my laptop.
 
I agree with the less-than-great manual. I was trying to find the VIN on my 2021 RTL. Take a look at this drawing from the manual. Since it doesn't state which side of the bike to look at for the swing arm, I assumed left because it is a left view of the bike. Stupid me, :joke: it was on the right.

20210624_113550.jpg
 
I agree with the less-than-great manual. I was trying to find the VIN on my 2021 RTL. Take a look at this drawing from the manual. Since it doesn't state which side of the bike to look at for the swing arm, I assumed left because it is a left view of the bike. Stupid me, :joke: it was on the right.

View attachment 190576

Weird my vin plate on my 2021 RTL is on the left side of the swing arm. Your bike must have been built on a Monday or a Friday afternoon :roflblack:
 
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