Checking oil level

[JkRbbt]

I realize cold readings mean very little, but so does a hot reading with the entire dip stick dripping in oil. I'm trying to get a good reading, not too hot and not too cold. Maybe I'll get Goldilocks to read it for me and it will be "just right"! :banghead:

 

[NancysToy]

I realize cold readings mean very little, but so does a hot reading with the entire dip stick dripping in oil. I'm trying to get a good reading, not too hot and not too cold. Maybe I'll get Goldilocks to read it for me and it will be "just right"! :banghead:

If the entire stick is dripping with oil when the engine is hot, your oil tank is overfilled...plain and simple. Buy a $10 oil suction gun at the auto parts store and suck some out.

 

[retired1]

I've used a $1(dollar store) turkey baster.

 

[JkRbbt]

Will do! Thanx, guys.

 

[Jeriatric]

I've used a $1(dollar store) turkey baster.

But Honey!!! If it's good enough for the kitchen.......

Oh, OK, the dollar store :lecturef_smilie:

 

[Blue Star]

If the entire stick is dripping with oil when the engine is hot, your oil tank is overfilled...plain and simple. Buy a $10 oil suction gun at the auto parts store and suck some out.

When I bought my 12 RT it was over filled, so I got a piece of 1/4 inch tubing (fish tank air hose) and siphoned out a little oil at a time. Just made sure the container I used was clean in case I had to put some back it.

 

[bruiser]

BB's 2010 came home from the dealer one time after service. When I checked the oil the next day it was at bottom of the dip stick opening. Took it back to them.

Today was oil change day at Bruisers shop. Changed the oil in my Spyder (mentioned earlier), changed the oil in my Silverado. Tomorrow it's the riding mower's turn.

 

[flybuddy]

Dry sump systems are notoriously inaccurate on stick readings since the oil is in 2 places and only one can be checked. This makes them prone to overfilling. I just went nearly 4K between oil changes and having added NO oil in between changes I measured what drained out and it was low only about half a pint (some of which was probably soaked into the filter). The various suggestions on checking must have consistency to them. If you check 30 seconds after a full run shutdown one time and 5 minutes after the next--you won't get same reading. Suggestion...the first time you get to operating temp after an oil change, check the level at a specific time after shutdown (say one minute)..See where the reading is and use that as a baseline.

 

[pickelhead]

I just drain the oil and measure how much there is and add as necessary. Never used the dip stick.

 

[Firefly]

Didn't someone out here run into a tech that showed them how to check oil with engine running?

Still been doing it the way I did with my 2008 GS--- after a ride pull into level garage. Let idle for a minute. Pull stick, wipe off, replace all the way screwed down and check it.

 

[Bob Denman]

The Turkey baster is a great fix for stuff like this! (Just don't let your Missus catch you rummaging around in the kitchen drawers for it! :lecturef_smilie::yikes I've even used one to put some suction into the brake bleeding process on a Polaris ATV that was so airlocked... :gaah::cus::gaah:

 

[bruiser]

Back in my day, we used the old siphon method. I tried it on BBs Spyder before taking it back to the dealer. The hot oil burned my lips :gaah: :shocked: :roflblack:

 

[donec]

1. Enough to get it down to the full mark.

2. Based on how you described it you waited long enough.

2/3. Read the section on Transportation and storage in your owner manual.

Thanks for your reply.

I ask here hoping I really would not be told to read the manual as it doesn't give the needed information. It's like this I have read the "section on Transportation and storage" and it says to change the oil before putting it in storage.

However! Oil when it sets tends to get thicker with time (not precisely correct but good enough for this discussion). This is why they say to change oil every 3 months. However I don't know much about true synthetic oil and don't know if it also thickens with time and if so how much. Also if it is just a matter of the oil aging with time will that have much practical effect on the filter? So anyone that knows the answer I would appreciate you sharing the information.

 

[NancysToy]

Strange, but I never had to check the oil level in my Gold Wing like I do with this Can Am. The question is WHY does this engine go through so much oil? Is it burning it? If so, why? Is it due to leaky valve guides? Due to leaks elsewhere in the engine block or trans housing? It would be nice for those us not familiar with this engine to get the reason(s) why.

I have no definitive answer, but if I had to guess I would venture that it had more to do with low ring tensions and the tendency for synthetic (or part synthetic) oils to cling to the cylinder walls and other parts more tenaciously than dino oils do.

 

[boborgera]

Could it be that some are over filling then trying to keep at that level , And burning that overage off, I would put in exactly 4 Qt and never had to add between changes at 3k [Sm5 08] :dontknow:

 

[Wazoo]

Analyzed

For what it's worth the 2010-2011 RT service manual says:

NOTE: The oil quantity between ADD mark and "F" mark is 0.5 L (.5 qut (U.S. liq.)).

This statement is made in the section on adding oil when the level is under the operating range. That means the oil is at operating temperature.

I use a rather large syringe (the kind without the needle) with a length of tubing on the end to extract oil from my tank when I have it analyzed. Should work well for pulling the excess out of your tank.

Where and why do you have your oil analyzed?

 

[2 Cruysyn]

Where and why do you have your oil analyzed?

Sorry for the late replay. Just returned from Spyderfest.

I send my samples to Oil Analyzers, Inc. I use Amsoil MCF 10w-40 Synthetic. I have it analyzed to see how the oil is performing and how the innards of my engine are holding up. Still unresolved is the reason for excessive fuel dilution which I would not have known had I not had the oil analyzed. At nearly 5k miles the oil was otherwise still serviceable.

I realize that some just don't care and that's okay. I'm not one of them though. Talked to a guy at Spyderfest who changes his oil at 2k. If that makes one comfortable then who am I to argue.

 

[mdale46]

Oil Over Fill

I'm an idiot! Didn't check oil by the book when I brought it home. I have just put 500 miles on our RT, 200 of that today. I checked the oil after the ride, following the procedures outlined (by the book). It appears it was overfilled. Dip stick wet all the way past full when at op temp and 1/4 cold. My dealer isn't worth a S--T! One of a hand full of issues. Anyway, what damage may have been done? Knowing this dealer, he will tell me, "no problem". I will opt for the advice of fellow Spyder owners. Help, PLEASE!

 

[BajaRon]

I have no definitive answer, but if I had to guess I would venture that it had more to do with low ring tensions and the tendency for synthetic (or part synthetic) oils to cling to the cylinder walls and other parts more tenaciously than dino oils do.

That combined with high RPM...

I'm an idiot! Didn't check oil by the book when I brought it home. I have just put 500 miles on our RT, 200 of that today. I checked the oil after the ride, following the procedures outlined (by the book). It appears it was overfilled. Dip stick wet all the way past full when at op temp and 1/4 cold. My dealer isn't worth a S--T! One of a hand full of issues. Anyway, what damage may have been done? Knowing this dealer, he will tell me, "no problem". I will opt for the advice of fellow Spyder owners. Help, PLEASE!

Not good but still not the end of the world. One reason I change my own oil but I realize this approach isn't for everyone. You probably haven't done any damage. Blown seals is the most common outcome of too much oil. Oil in the air box is another. If you have a paper filter I'd get that checked. Oil in a paper filter is not good.

Get the oil at the proper level and go from there. You'll probably be just fine.

 

[2 Cruysyn]

I'm an idiot! Didn't check oil by the book when I brought it home. I have just put 500 miles on our RT, 200 of that today. I checked the oil after the ride, following the procedures outlined (by the book). It appears it was overfilled. Dip stick wet all the way past full when at op temp and 1/4 cold. My dealer isn't worth a S--T! One of a hand full of issues. Anyway, what damage may have been done? Knowing this dealer, he will tell me, "no problem". I will opt for the advice of fellow Spyder owners. Help, PLEASE!

What Ron said.

You're not the first I've heard of being over filled. Not likely to have caused any damage but, as I understand it, you may have ended up with a bit more oil in your air box than you would normally. Why this happens I'll leave for others here who understand it better than I do.

In the mean time bring your RT up to temp and withdraw some of the oil from the tank with whatever means you have at hand. I use a 60 ml (2 oz) syringe (the type NOT made for a needle) with a length of tubing attached when I draw oil for sampling. Remove enough to bring the level at least down to the full line. A bit more isn't going to hurt. I imagine there are more than a few of us who run with the level at the first "X" below the full line.