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Checking oil level info. Discrepancy

Poasttown

Member
I am looking at the directions on how to check the oil level on my 2019 F3L. The instructions on the sticker on the underside of the dip stick cover panel says ride nine miles, stop on level surface, LET IDLE 10 MINUTES, turn off engine, then check oil. The operators manual say the same thing except I should , LET THE ENGINE IDLE A MINIMUM OF 20 SECONDS. Big difference!

One video I watched says let the engine fan cycle once at idle, turn off engine and check.

I making an “educated guess” based on what I have picked up that the 10 minutes is closer to the correct time. Or basically, let the engine idle for a few minutes (5-10) then turn off engine and check oil.

Any comments are welcome.


Poasttown
 
I am looking at the directions on how to check the oil level on my 2019 F3L. The instructions on the sticker on the underside of the dip stick cover panel says ride nine miles, stop on level surface, LET IDLE 10 MINUTES, turn off engine, then check oil. The operators manual say the same thing except I should , LET THE ENGINE IDLE A MINIMUM OF 20 SECONDS. Big difference!

One video I watched says let the engine fan cycle once at idle, turn off engine and check.

I making an “educated guess” based on what I have picked up that the 10 minutes is closer to the correct time. Or basically, let the engine idle for a few minutes (5-10) then turn off engine and check oil.

Any comments are welcome.


Poasttown

10 minutes is so the Engine is at the correct operating Temperature ....... the 20 seconds of Idling is only AFTER the engine is warmed up .... this lets the Foam settle down ..... I've had Spyders ( various ) for over 10 years .... I NEVER waste 10 minutes to heat up .... I ONLY check the Temperature after I have gone for a ride to go somewhere ( over 10 minutes ) ..... this saves time and gas ...... hope this info helps .... Mike :thumbup:
 
Mike has given you the correct interpretation that is predicated on an engine in which the oil is at normal operating temperature. If is isn't at normal op temp, like if you've changed the oil & filter, let the fans cycle a couple of times before you shut off the engine to check the dip stick. If vou've ridden it nine miles the oil should be at normal op temp so waiting 20 seconds is acceptable. I, like Mike, check mine after a a ride and I generally let the engine idle while I remove my gear and then check it.
 
Best to let it idle for 10 mins

The complete procedure and specs from BRP call for a 10 minute idle time after a minimum 10 mile ride so that the 3 scavenger pumps can stabilize the oil level. Since it only needs to be done about once a month on these 1330 engines, it is not hard to pull it into the garage, take off the gear, walk inside while it idles and get a cold drink, then come back to check the oil after the cooling fans cycle the second time (10 mins) --- BRPs complete details below if you want to read them...
CHECKING THE OIL ON THE 1330 ACE ENGINE
There have been some questions on the right way for checking your oil on the 1330 engine. Below is the correct procedure:

Given the oil system design of the 1330 engine, oil level verification must be done under specific conditions which can influence the quantity of measurable oil in the engine.

These conditions are:
• Engine oil temperature must be between 80°C and 95°C (176°F and 203°F) which is considered as being the engine's normal operating temperature. Don't mistake coolant temperature for engine oil temperature! Coolant will heat up faster than the engine oil.
• Engine oil temperature is crucial since its volume changes based on temperature; that's enough to affect the measurable level.
• Engine must idle 10 minutes. The 1330 engine is a dry sump design with 3 scavenge pumps and 1 pressure pump, 10 minutes of idle time allows the scavenge pumps to stabilize the quantity of oil returned.


Complete oil level verification procedure:
1. Bring engine to operating temperature.
2. Ensure vehicle is on a level surface.
3. Allow engine to idle for 10 minutes.
4. Stop the engine.
5. Within 2 minutes of stopping the engine:
1. Remove and wipe the dipstick clean.
2. Insert dipstick and completely screw it in.
3. Remove dipstick and read oil level on dipstick.

6. Adjust level as necessary without overfilling.


Tips and Tricks:

Here are 2 ways the crucial criteria can be reached:
• An engine started cold (20°C or 68°F) will take approximately 25 minutes to reach oil level verification criteria (oil temperature and idle time). Oil level can be reliably verified when the radiator fans have cycled ON twice
 
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The easiest way to check it is to wait UNTIL the Spyder tells you it needs fluid by the Break Failure indication.
DO NOT freak out, your breaks are still good and workable. It just may take a little more pressure to stop (and I do mean "little).
When you get home (unless you are talking a long distance) add fluid.
If a long distance stop at local Auto-Zone, Pep Boys, etc and add fluid as necessary.
However, if you insist to check, on a level surface with no faults and known good brakes, use a magic marker and mark the level on the tank for a quick future checks.

AJ
 
The easiest way to check it is to wait UNTIL the Spyder tells you it needs fluid by the Break Failure indication.
DO NOT freak out, your breaks are still good and workable. It just may take a little more pressure to stop (and I do mean "little).
When you get home (unless you are talking a long distance) add fluid.
If a long distance stop at local Auto-Zone, Pep Boys, etc and add fluid as necessary.
However, if you insist to check, on a level surface with no faults and known good brakes, use a magic marker and mark the level on the tank for a quick future checks.

AJ

He's not doing brakes!! He's checking his oil in his motor!:roflblack: That is a fool proof way of checking your brake fluid, with the exception that you may want to give your brake pads a look at before you add, because as your pads wear the fluid replaces the pad thickness and you may need a a set of pads instead of fluid! Unless your one that do rotors with the pads and don't mind letting the pads go to iron!!!:dontknow: Not my choice, I am a cheap skate that don't like spending any more than I have to!!
 
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