Andy Cserny
New member
breaking key
Hi Mike,
thanks for the heads up on thiss. I wonder if using a softer spring might solve this problem. I hate not to lock the seat since I have put my fuse holder for all the farkles, the auxiliary relay for the farkles and the positive and negative auxiliary distribution panels under the seat. I can just see some 13 yo mischievious kid with a screwdriver seeing what he can do under there. I have to quit working on the Spyder and devote my attention to the boat if I am going to take it to Florida for the winter.
Andy
:gaah:....Andy, I don't know if you ever saw my Post about " Breaking the Key while releasing the SEAT LOCK "...........This is where you are more likely to break the KEY.....What I did was to partially open the seat lock by using wire on the SEAT LATCH to hold it 90 % open ....ALL the time ......Yes, it no longer LOCKS ,I just pull up on the seat in the front to open it ......I no longer have to use the IGNITION KEY...........I bought the wire at Home Depot, it's called Galvanized Steel wire 16 Ga., it's made for twist ties , it doesn't break like copper wire .....................IMHO the amount of pressure needed to open the seat is more likely to break the KEY than that of the FRUNK ....at least on my RT.......................Mike :thumbup:
Hi Mike,
thanks for the heads up on thiss. I wonder if using a softer spring might solve this problem. I hate not to lock the seat since I have put my fuse holder for all the farkles, the auxiliary relay for the farkles and the positive and negative auxiliary distribution panels under the seat. I can just see some 13 yo mischievious kid with a screwdriver seeing what he can do under there. I have to quit working on the Spyder and devote my attention to the boat if I am going to take it to Florida for the winter.
Andy