Changing SE6 Shifter Position

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I knew you guys would come up with a number of ideas and I thank each of you. After I start my treatment I will find which direction to head in. I'll keep you informed as to what I end up doing. Thanks again!

The shifter operates a "momentary on-off-momentary on" switch inside the left side switch module, i.e., it something like this. When you push "+" it makes contact from common to side A and when you push "-" it makes contact from common to side B. This switch is part of the internal processor in the LH module and does not connect to any wiring whatever outside of the LH switch module. The switch module is a Can Bus processor that sends digital signals to the ECM and TCM that tell them to execute a shift. That's why you can't connect anything into the wiring harness and have it work.

A person MIGHT be able to get to the inside of the LH switch module and connect wires to the shift switch and add a "momentary on-off-momentary on" toggle switch in parallel to the handlebar switch. This new toggle switch could then be connected to a foot operator of some sort.

My first step would be to see if you can find a used LH switch module from a motorcycle salvage yard. Take it apart and see if it's feasible or even possible to connect wires to the shift switch. I'm inclined to think it could be done. A new one costs over $400.

Another possibility is find a solenoid that can be powered to move in both directions. Connect it to a foot operated switch like I suggest above. Connect the plunger to a cable, something like a bicycle brake cable, and run that up to and connect it to the shift paddle. This approach uses the solenoid to mechanically operate the shift paddle with electrical power. The first idea above is to clone the electrical operation of the shift paddle.

Hope this gives you some ideas to chew on.

 

[ElmoLucy]

The shifter operates a "momentary on-off-momentary on" switch inside the left side switch module, i.e., it something like this. When you push "+" it makes contact from common to side A and when you push "-" it makes contact from common to side B. This switch is part of the internal processor in the LH module and does not connect to any wiring whatever outside of the LH switch module. The switch module is a Can Bus processor that sends digital signals to the ECM and TCM that tell them to execute a shift. That's why you can't connect anything into the wiring harness and have it work.

A person MIGHT be able to get to the inside of the LH switch module and connect wires to the shift switch and add a "momentary on-off-momentary on" toggle switch in parallel to the handlebar switch. This new toggle switch could then be connected to a foot operator of some sort.

My first step would be to see if you can find a used LH switch module from a motorcycle salvage yard. Take it apart and see if it's feasible or even possible to connect wires to the shift switch. I'm inclined to think it could be done. A new one costs over $400.

Another possibility is find a solenoid that can be powered to move in both directions. Connect it to a foot operated switch like I suggest above. Connect the plunger to a cable, something like a bicycle brake cable, and run that up to and connect it to the shift paddle. This approach uses the solenoid to mechanically operate the shift paddle with electrical power. The first idea above is to clone the electrical operation of the shift paddle.

Hope this gives you some ideas to chew on.

I guess I best put my teeth in first. :joke: Thank you for the sharing your knowledge.

 

[jerpinoy]

Good luck And I hope you'll get something to make it work.

 

[ElmoLucy]

Update

The lab work came back and we, the doctors and myself, are still in the dark as to what my illness is. But on the brighter side... I have solved my shifting issue. I removed the screws that hold the hand grip solid in place and the placed a Cramp Buster backwards on the grip as close to the up shift lever as possible. Now with a very slight twist of the grip I can up shift. I have no issues with downshifting so I am now as happy as a Spyder in her web. Now if I can just get those dumb doctors to figure out what's wrong with me. Thank you all again for your help in solving my problem and God Bless.

 

[Bob Denman]

Glad to hear that you found a workable solution!! :2thumbs:

 

[Peter Aawen]

Possibly a bit pointless now that you have a solution ElmoLucy, but potentially another idea that might help any others who find they have a similar problem some time down-track (the movement/dexterity in my RIGHT thumb is already compromised a tad by the prosthetic joint I now have in there, but hey, the pain is far less intrusive - and the Ortho-pod surgeon assures me that my left thumb needing the same fix is only a matter of time! :shocked: ) Of course, you'd hafta open the hand piece for this so it might be a bit fiddly, & maybe you'd need to use a soldering iron too (altho it does look do-able without one) Just swap the wiring connections activated by the paddle shifter so that the wire/s that originally went to the 'UP' paddle are now activated by a press on the 'DOWN' paddle & vice versa - it doesn't look all that hard to do (but please bear in mind that I only eye-balled it, I didn't actually try doing it!)

The semi-auto will downshift itself once the revs drop anyway, so if restrictions to your hand/thumb dexterity so demand, you can get by with only using the up-shift paddle to effect gear changes - & once the wiring is swapped, your index finger would be the one doing all the work regardless of the + & - labels being the wrong way around... Maybe you could consider that particular labelling feature as another 'security feature' unique to your Spyder, it'd certainly make it hard for anyone not in the know to ride your Spyder very far without a few fumbles to start with.... :yikes: :clap: