Changing oil on f3-s procedure/guide

[JKMSPYDER]

I thought I would explain the procedures for changing the oil on a 2015-2017 F3 or F3-S. It may also be the same for the new F3T or F3Ltd. First of all, no panels have to be removed to get to both oil plugs. If you have not replaced your oil plugs with Dimple or Gold plugs, the plug on the left side (as you sit on the Spyder) is a 45 Torx. The plug on the right is a #6 Allen. After my dealer changed my oil at the 3000 mile service, I had him replace the original plugs with Gold plugs. These plugs are SAE, but I found that mm sockets are a better fit. The left side uses a 15mm socket and the right side uses a 17mm socket. Before I changed the oil I rode the Spyder for about 20 minutes to get the oil to the proper temperature. I then drove the front wheels onto ramps I have. Some people like to lift the rear of the Spyder also, but just having the front wheels off the ground works for me. I began by loosening the Gold plug on the left side. This is the plug that has the two O rings on it. Oil really starts to flow out as soon as the plug is loosened. I had on rubber gloves but the oil was still almost too hot to handle. I think next time I will drain the right side first since it is easier and the oil doesn't flow as freely until the plug is all the way out. The right side plug does not use O rings. Once I drained the oil out of both sides I took off the right side panel to expose the oil filter housing. I think J C Thorne has mentioned that you can get to the oil filter by just taking off the right lateral panel, but I had much more room to work by taking off the large panel. Four screws and three push pins, and it's off. The oil filter cover uses a 36mm socket. To get to it I had to loosen and move the brake reservoir. If you look behind the reservoir you can lift and pull it out. Brake fluid won't spill as it is sealed. By loosening and moving the reservoir it makes getting to the filter housing so much easier. Once I loosened and removed the filter cover, it has a large O ring and two smaller O rings. These all come with the oil filter kit from BRP or BajaRon. So I replaced the oil filter, all O rings on the filter housing and the left oil plug. I also replaced the crush washers on each plug. I tightened everything up then filled with 5 & 1/3 qts of Amsoil. BRP or other oils are fine as long as they meet specs. I apologize for not taking any photos. I hope this helps someone that wants to change their own oil and save some money. It also is good for getting to know your Spyder better.

 

[BeRight]

Thanks for sharing

 

[SPYD3R]

U

U da MAN..... :firstplace: :yes:
THX

 

[jcthorne]

For some folks removing the side panels is easier for changing the filter as you can see and work with more room. Having done a large number of these, I no longer need to see the whole housing and do not remove any side panels or the master cylinder reservoir to change the filter. Using a 36mm ratcheting box end wrench from the side to remove the cover.

Its not a hard job at all and lets you spend some quality time getting to know your Spyder better.

 

[JKMSPYDER]

OIL CHANGE

J C now I can visualize your technique. By using an open end ratcheting box wrench I can see how you would need a lot less room to work vs those of us that use a socket wrench. Either way works and it all depends on the tools one has on hand.

 

[always young]

Hot oil on hands

On my other forum someone else mentioned a good trick. Put a cotton work glove on and put a rubber gloves over it. The rubber glove keeps your hand dry and the cotton glove insulates you from the hot oil. I tried it and dang, it works! :yes:

 

[cptjam]

Trick

Put on a pair of cotton work gloves. Pull on a pair of nitrile or rubber gloves. Change oil, no pain!! At 10 pair for a couple of bucks, you can pitch them if you get them dirty. I normally don't have time to wait on oil to cool off. That, and a fresh roll of paper towels, and done is good!

 

[ussoldier]

I thought I would explain the procedures for changing the oil on a 2015-2017 F3 or F3-S. It may also be the same for the new F3T or F3Ltd. First of all, no panels have to be removed to get to both oil plugs. If you have not replaced your oil plugs with Dimple or Gold plugs, the plug on the left side (as you sit on the Spyder) is a 45 Torx. The plug on the right is a #6 Allen. After my dealer changed my oil at the 3000 mile service, I had him replace the original plugs with Gold plugs. These plugs are SAE, but I found that mm sockets are a better fit. The left side uses a 15mm socket and the right side uses a 17mm socket. Before I changed the oil I rode the Spyder for about 20 minutes to get the oil to the proper temperature. I then drove the front wheels onto ramps I have. Some people like to lift the rear of the Spyder also, but just having the front wheels off the ground works for me. I began by loosening the Gold plug on the left side. This is the plug that has the two O rings on it. Oil really starts to flow out as soon as the plug is loosened. I had on rubber gloves but the oil was still almost too hot to handle. I think next time I will drain the right side first since it is easier and the oil doesn't flow as freely until the plug is all the way out. The right side plug does not use O rings. Once I drained the oil out of both sides I took off the right side panel to expose the oil filter housing. I think J C Thorne has mentioned that you can get to the oil filter by just taking off the right lateral panel, but I had much more room to work by taking off the large panel. Four screws and three push pins, and it's off. The oil filter cover uses a 36mm socket. To get to it I had to loosen and move the brake reservoir. If you look behind the reservoir you can lift and pull it out. Brake fluid won't spill as it is sealed. By loosening and moving the reservoir it makes getting to the filter housing so much easier. Once I loosened and removed the filter cover, it has a large O ring and two smaller O rings. These all come with the oil filter kit from BRP or BajaRon. So I replaced the oil filter, all O rings on the filter housing and the left oil plug. I also replaced the crush washers on each plug. I tightened everything up then filled with 5 & 1/3 qts of Amsoil. BRP or other oils are fine as long as they meet specs. I apologize for not taking any photos. I hope this helps someone that wants to change their own oil and save some money. It also is good for getting to know your Spyder better.

This is awesome. I would like to know if you could do a set-up on a video. I know you just did it, but it would be nice. I know there was a video for a 2014 oil change on a Spyder RT 1330. I am more of a visual. So, if anyone has an F3-S Video than this would be greatly appreciated it.

 

[deer30084]

An excellent post. I am one for 99% of the time changing my own oil on my vehicles. I will copy and print out your instructions and have it on hand when I do my first oil change on my 2015 F3. I have 2,100 miles on it now.

 

[jcthorne]

J C now I can visualize your technique. By using an open end ratcheting box wrench I can see how you would need a lot less room to work vs those of us that use a socket wrench. Either way works and it all depends on the tools one has on hand.

Absolutely.

One of the major benefits of owning and operating a shop is that it easy to justify buying tools to make a job easier rather than continuing to do things a more time consuming way with the tools you have. One can never have too many tools and operating a shop allows me that option.

We have had a number of customers that come by and get an oil change on their spyder and 'watch' while asking questions etc to learn. They then do their own changes in the future to save some $$. Does not bother me a bit, they usually become some of our best customers for other things. Some even buy oil and filters from our shop as we always have stock on hand.

 

[Darren111]

Thank You

A BIG thank you for sharing this info.:thumbup:

 

[fencepost]

I got my 36mm wrench from eBay, did a search for Harley axle wrench. Got at a good price and can use to remove rear wheel as well.

 

[AeroPilot]

Just how does the brake fluid reservoir lift up?

" To get to it I had to loosen and move the brake reservoir. If you look behind the reservoir you can lift and pull it out. "

I wiggled and wiggled to try to get the reservoir loose-- never did. What step or tab am I missing? Push in? Pull Out? I'm sure it's easier than what I make it out to be, but.....

 

[xpeschon]

An excellent post. I am one for 99% of the time changing my own oil on my vehicles. I will copy and print out your instructions and have it on hand when I do my first oil change on my 2015 F3. I have 2,100 miles on it now.

 

[JKMSPYDER]

BRAKE RESERVOIR

Aeropilot, as I remember, I just lifted the reservoir straight up and then out toward me. After installing the new oil filter I just slowly dropped the reservoir into it's cradle from above. Hope this helps.

 

[AeroPilot]

Thanks JKM - I'll try it next time I have the right panel off the F3

Also looked at Lamonster's oil change video, and may just keep some old rags to stuff underneath, and then snake the cap and filter out below it.

Probably the easiest way with less chance of breaking off anything. Thanks,

Andy

 

[WackyDan]

My understanding is that the SE6 and SM6 have slightly different oil capacities. I believe Lamont made a post about it.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Excellent explanation.

I was thinking it was 5 quarts on the SE6. There was some confusion in the manual back in 2014 and I thought BRP revised it to 5 quarts. Went through that with our '14 RT.

 

[JKMSPYDER]

It is my understanding that if you put in only 5 qts in a 1330 engine with the SE6 transmission, you will be at the minimum on the dipstick. It was suggested to add another 8 to 12 ozs and you will be between the minimum and maximum. This is what I do. Seems to work fine.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Actually, the dipsticks are slightly wrong. Look up some threads about proper oil level. I will try to find them and post them.