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Can't get enough cable slack - Installing Custom Dynamics Risers

xinu

xinu

New member
I'm hoping someone on here has had experience installing Custom Dynamics risers on a 2012 RSS.

I got some 4.5 Inch Custom Dynamics Easy Risers for our 2012 Spyder RSS. Has anyone out there installed these risers on a recent RS model Spyder. I can't seem to get enough slack on the left bar electrical cable so I can turn the bars without stressing this cable. I have already stress pulled the outer wire cover out from the switch gear. No matter how I route the cables there isn't enough slack. I have followed the instructions but I don't see how to get enough slack from left switch gear cable for any practical bar height. Do I now have to take tupperware off to find where that cable might be tied somewhere in the front internal area or is there an easier way? I would be happy to remove tupperware if there was a way to liberate more cable for the left riser.

I would appreciate any advice.
 
There are usually some cable ties holding the cables to the steering and other components. The locations and quantities seem to vary. Pulling at least some of the body panels helps...as does a strong light and tugging on the cables to see where they run.
 
Yes, there are cable ties that have to be cut, I installed the 4.5 inch risers on my "11" , there is plenty of cable down there. Removing the cluster may be the easiest access point.
 
There is Plenty of slack

I have the Heli Bar riser on top of a BRP riser total of 5 inches and there is plenty of cable
and plenty of wire all you have to do is trace back the cables and wires and cut off the zip
ties mount the riser and then retie the wires and cables with new zip ties.... make sure you
turn the bars as far left and right it make sure all clears ok... that's it:thumbup:
Dave

xinu said:
I'm hoping someone on here has had experience installing Custom Dynamics risers on a 2012 RSS.

I got some 4.5 Inch Custom Dynamics Easy Risers for our 2012 Spyder RSS. Has anyone out there installed these risers on a recent RS model Spyder. I can't seem to get enough slack on the left bar electrical cable so I can turn the bars without stressing this cable. I have already stress pulled the outer wire cover out from the switch gear. No matter how I route the cables there isn't enough slack. I have followed the instructions but I don't see how to get enough slack from left switch gear cable for any practical bar height. Do I now have to take tupperware off to find where that cable might be tied somewhere in the front internal area or is there an easier way? I would be happy to remove tupperware if there was a way to liberate more cable for the left riser.

I would appreciate any advice.
Click to expand...
 
Have to agree..!!

do have to get under and find those cable ties. Once released you will have enough slack. Then find where to tie them down again so they don't get pinched or limit your turning... :thumbup:
 
I direct you to my thread-- I installed these on my 2010 RS. It was... challenging.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-Easy-Risers-and-the-nightmare-of-cable-slack

The "mystery" tie(s) are almost always located low and forward underneath the console. The best (only?) way to find and reach them is to take off the foglight side panels and open the frunk-- then you should have a good view into the front of your Spyder. I never found the last tie myself; my dealer found it by looking at the bike straight on with the frunk open and the fuse panel removed.

Word of warning, however-- even with all the ties off, you are REALLY close to the margin with these risers. My left switch box (with the SE transmission) has a short in it where the transmission cable connects to it-- every few months or so that cable loosens up just enough to prevent me from selecting reverse. I jiggle the cable at the box and it works fine, so I've put off replacing it, but I'm convinced that even after all the ties are off the cables, you run a risk if you go full lock-to-lock (which you will do if you choose to lock the handlebars when you park the Spyder).

Bottom line: be careful, or it's an expensive, non-warranty fix to replace either handlebar switchbox (they can't/don't repair them, they'll just replace the entire unit and charge labor).

That all said... I love the risers, they greatly improve the riding position on the RS.

P.S. One other caveat-- the stainless steel bolts used to secure the risers to the handlebars aren't the best quality, i.e. they WILL rust in the rain. A little Simichrome polish and a toothbrush cleans them up fine enough, but you may want to look around for better-quality replacements if looks are important to you.
 
Thanks to all for the advice.

I have the instrument cluster off are per instructions and I can see the left side electrical cable routed as described previously. There are no visible ties looking down through the cluster. So if there is going to be any slack obtained it seems like I will need to start removing tupperware.

Dave - Thanks for the link to your thread. I'm beginning to feel the pain and frustration you probably felt. I have not cut off the bars yet. I wanted to make sure everything works before I go past the point of no return. I also opened a ticket (I think) with Custom Dynamics and see if the respond with anything enlightening.

The Clutch hydraulic cable may also be an issue as well. Will have to go slowly now resolving each issue one step at time on what I thought was going to be a Saturday project in a warm garage in the winter.

daveinva said:
I direct you to my thread-- I installed these on my 2010 RS. It was... challenging.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-Easy-Risers-and-the-nightmare-of-cable-slack

The "mystery" tie(s) are almost always located low and forward underneath the console. The best (only?) way to find and reach them is to take off the foglight side panels and open the frunk-- then you should have a good view into the front of your Spyder. I never found the last tie myself; my dealer found it by looking at the bike straight on with the frunk open and the fuse panel removed.

Word of warning, however-- even with all the ties off, you are REALLY close to the margin with these risers. My left switch box (with the SE transmission) has a short in it where the transmission cable connects to it-- ...
Click to expand...
 
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I have the he lie bar risors and the ties do intact need to be cut also be verry careful not to tug to hard on the left signal side cable as it will sever the wire to the signal switch ask me how I know.
 
Yeah, unfortunately, it's impossible to reach all the cable ties just looking through the console panel-- you do need to remove some tupperware to get at the ones buried deep inside. Use the brightest flashlight you have, and a pair of long needlenose pliers will come in handy.

That said, the tupperware removal up front is easy as pie, so that shouldn't be an issue.

Good luck!
 
I'm going to have to stew on this all week until I have the time to get out in the garage on the weekend when it only costs a small fortune to heat when compared to week days. Electric heat has got to go!

mcaccamise - I hope I don't need to ask you what happened to your signal light wiring (although I think I know:opps:) and how you resoled it.

Thanks,

Greg
 
I had to remove the instrument cluster then the plastic surround it fits into in order to access all the required cable ties. After doing the installation the reverse cable (I have the SM5) was the only thing on the left with maybe not enough free play on a full turn. The electrical wires were ok.

My hands were badly scraped though!
 
oldgoat said:
I had to remove the instrument cluster then the plastic surround it fits into in order to access all the required cable ties. After doing the installation the reverse cable (I have the SM5) was the only thing on the left with maybe not enough free play on a full turn. The electrical wires were ok.

My hands were badly scraped though!
Click to expand...

Good to know Mr. Goat. I was hoping I could gain access through the frunk on the upper part. That area looks easy enough to remove the tupperware and is close to where the cables route from the cluster. I thought about removing the plastic surround but my lazy nature had me thinking about another way. I have to look again but I think I need to remove the windshield to take off the cluster area surround tupperware and that maybe the way to go. Injuries are not uncommon when one has to deviate from the instructions given:D Better the body than the bike or are my priorities wrong?

Thanks,

Greg
 
I did this mod on the day I brought the Spyder home. On reflection it is easy to remove the frunk & maybe I could have snipped the cable ties that way. As I had only had the Spyder for 2hrs I wasn't brave enough to tackle the trunk at that point.

To be honest I damaged both my hands & the Spyder. That is totally normal for me.
 
Great tip!

NancysToy said:
On Nancy's, I removed the Y-panel in front of the seat and had enough access.
Click to expand...

Just for an update on my progress.

It was nice and warm in the garage today.

Thanks NancysToys for the tip on removing Y cover ahead of the seat. That gave me the access to the cable tie to relieve enough slack for the left switch gear housing to get steering lock.

I’ll attempt take some pictures tomorrow where to cut the cable tie to release the switch module cable slack.

Not sure where I can find more clutch cable slack but I think there is just about enough there if I play the banjo a bit.

Pictures so far… Can't seem to get better ones than these uploaded.


Greg





IMGP7761.jpgIMGP7768.jpgIMGP7770.jpgIMGP7771.jpgIMGP7772.jpg
 
Last edited:
xinu yes you have to do some digging to get to the forward most lower cable tie and when cliped u will have plenty of slack also i had to replace the entire turn signal switch when i tugged to hard on the wireing before cutting all cable ties to the left controls.
Good luck youll enjoy the risors when completed,
Mike
 
mcaccamise said:
digging to get to the forward most lower cable tie and when cliped u will have plenty of slack also...

Mike
Click to expand...

You described that perfectly. The 'U' loupe with the cable tie that you access from the right side is what I cut. That relieved the needed slack.

You know, I don't why Custom Dynamics doesn't include this kind of info in their instructions. Yes it's going to look more complicated but that wouldn't have been a deal breaker for me.

Greg
 
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