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Calling Spyder gurus

Pandy

Pandy

Member
The Spyder in question is a 2011 RTS that has developed an annoying habit of losing the LH headlight. Bulb has been replaced with everything from OEM to generic to Silverstar. Most times it's not the bulb. Oh, I replace the RH side at the same time but it never fails like the left. Now for the quandary, is there a way to trick the machine into keeping the headlight circuit energized for troubleshooting in depth? What I do now is start the machine, use kill switch to shut off and leave key on. I only do this after a ride or been on the tender for a few days. So, whaddaya think?
Patrick

Oh, Pyder has about 56K on the clock.
 
There is no way I know as a user to trick the system to keep the headlights on.
Only BUDs can do that. BUDs has routines in the software that can energize pretty much everything on the Spyder for troubleshooting.

Bob
 
Well,
You can jump the headlight relay with a piece of wire, I did that to test my HID's that were installed. Problem is for troubleshooting sake if the headlight relay is causing your issue, you will not be able to test it because you have to remove the relay to jump it. I would check in your fuse block for a loose relay. They are the little black things and sometimes they work themselves loose. They just plug in, and you can give them a shove to reseat them. Some of the relays are the same and you can try moving them around to see if the issues move with the relay. There is also a load shedding relay, you may have to jump that as well for the headlights to come on. I would bet you have a loose or bad relay.


Also make sure all the fuses are properly seated as well.

Good Luck,
Louie
 
Before I look

Before I break out my manual, do really mean to say that the headlights are individually fused or have a relay for each side? If that is so, I will search this out and let one and all know what happens next.
Patrick
 
Pandy,I also had this on my RS and wonder if it is that the power goes to the left bulb first them the right, so the right gets less power and lasts longer,don't know as I never looked at the harness.
 
9robot

tobor9 said:
Pandy,I also had this on my RS and wonder if it is that the power goes to the left bulb first them the right, so the right gets less power and lasts longer,don't know as I never looked at the harness.
Click to expand...
I wonder if that what the print is really saying? Or my thinking is backwards. From the print, it looks like R6 feeds both from the same common point. Oh, and it's not always the bulb. On a personal note, I'n no longer in the C.O., I was surplused a year ago and and now an FT in cable repair. Talk about irony....
Patrick
 
Bob wins !

Don't know if it was self induced or been that way from day one but:
attachment.php
attachment.php

Now off to the parts store for a replacement.
Patrick
 

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Interesting. Looks like it started with a bad connection which causes resistance. Resistance causes heat which causes this to burn and of course as it does that it creates more resistance until failure.

Wonder if it was a bad crimp of the wire to the pin in the connector or maybe water got in there somehow?

Bob
 
9005 socket

One 9005 socket later, and Pyder is binocular. To Finless, that's why I questioned whether self induced, or bad crimp from day one and took this long in the heat to fry it. Either way, going to take a long look at the RH side as well. And just to vent; those #$%&* mirrors.
Thanks for the replies and attention.
Patrick
 
What a great resource this is. That is the kind of thing you would pay a mechanic a lot of money to find,but the actual repair is so simple.
 
Pandy said:
One 9005 socket later, and Pyder is binocular. To Finless, that's why I questioned whether self induced, or bad crimp from day one and took this long in the heat to fry it. Either way, going to take a long look at the RH side as well. And just to vent; those #$%&* mirrors.
Thanks for the replies and attention.
Patrick
Click to expand...

:congrats: :clap: :2thumbs:
Yeah... the mirrors! :agree: :banghead:
 
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