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Bumpshid

I have the unlighted version. I can't tell you how many times I've scraped my driveway. My driveway and the curb cutout must not be at a very good angle. A scrape is not as bad as hitting a gater on the highway but it is a frequent reminder that the protection is there.
 
I had one on my 2011 RT and loved it. I now have a 2015 and based on the recommendation of my Spyder mechanic, I am forgoing it on this bike. He has told me that the 14/15/16 are quite a bit lower than the earlier models and the bump skid will make it low enough that it will bottom out on the smallest speed bump etc.. It is better to scrape the bottom plastic a bit and maybe get a scratch than having the undercarriage take a big hit from a speed bump at speed!

Just me thinking and its just my opinion.
That's a very good point. I have been on the fence about it myself. Can anyone verify what 'quite a bit lower' really is? Can someone with a stock '13 or prior with no skid measure the distance from ground to bottom of stock plate? Then we can compare and see how much of a difference there is. And... How thick is the bumpskid compare to stock plate on the '14 -16? I'd also hate to go any lower but you can also conclude that with front end lower it may even need more protection? And are the stock plates on '14-16 and different/thicker than the '13 and prior?
 
I had one on my 2011 RT and loved it. I now have a 2015 and based on the recommendation of my Spyder mechanic, I am forgoing it on this bike. He has told me that the 14/15/16 are quite a bit lower than the earlier models and the bump skid will make it low enough that it will bottom out on the smallest speed bump etc.. It is better to scrape the bottom plastic a bit and maybe get a scratch than having the undercarriage take a big hit from a speed bump at speed!

Just me thinking and its just my opinion.


From my experience, my 12 was lower in the front than my 15 is. and scraping and cracking the front end is what the Bumpskid prevents.

Cruzr Joe
 
Bump Skid

I like the looks of the lighted version but cringe at the thought of having to replace it cost wise as compared to the unlighted model. Decisions, decisions!! I imagine insurance would cover it though. hmmmmmm
 
bumpshid

I have the unlighted one on mine because it was installed before they had the lighted one.
If I could install the light kit on mine and make it look right i sure would
Ken
 
I like the looks of the lighted version but cringe at the thought of having to replace it cost wise as compared to the unlighted model. Decisions, decisions!! I imagine insurance would cover it though. hmmmmmm
If you were to have coverage for accessories on your bike policy: yes, it would! :thumbup:
 
I have the unlighted one because I already had LED on the front when I bought it. But, am happy it worked out this way, because the skidplate now protects my LED's instead of sticking them out in front. I live on a gravel road, and am thankful for the skidplate.

David

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I have non lighted and just removed mine for work that I am doing on the Spyder. When the Skid plate goes back on I will be using a weather strip between the lower body and the skid plate.

As for lights go buy a roll of LED lights and put them on the front end if you like..It would save you some cash.
 
Now you all are frightening me; have bottomed a few times on rough roads, but so far have managed to avoid road debris. With pulling a trailer this is going to get much more difficult to do. Will have to seriously consider this update.:yikes::yikes::yikes:

Al in Kalamazoo

If you will be pulling the CanAm trailer you should get the bumpskid for it also. It is so easy to scrape the rear of the trailer while moving it around by hand.
 
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Here in Montana we have pot holes that you can see China at the bottom. And then Road Construction during the Summer. So i have the Bumpskid to save my under side!!!! Didn't get the lights, as i didn't want to see China...
 
I have non lighted and just removed mine for work that I am doing on the Spyder. When the Skid plate goes back on I will be using a weather strip between the lower body and the skid plate.

As for lights go buy a roll of LED lights and put them on the front end if you like..It would save you some cash.


If you are going to put LED's on a non lighted bumpskid be sure to put a groove in the bumpskid that the LED's will fit into, just placing them on the outside will result in them getting broken and hanging down, the lighted ones from Spyderpops is made with the inlaid groove so that the LED's are protected.


Cruzr Joe
 
If you are going to put LED's on a non lighted bumpskid be sure to put a groove in the bumpskid that the LED's will fit into, just placing them on the outside will result in them getting broken and hanging down, the lighted ones from Spyderpops is made with the inlaid groove so that the LED's are protected.


Cruzr Joe

No plans for lights on the skid plate. Just the weather strip to help keep the peebles and crap off the top of the skid plate.
 
What can be done to fix the front suspension? I have a 2014 STL - I believe that comes with Fox shocks. Can they be adjusted?

I could really use the extra height as well. I have a bumpskid and do scrape periodically, especially on gravel / dirt roads.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

iGot2Fly,

It depends on what you weigh, do you ride 2 up (alot), and to some extent how you ride. These factors + bike weight translate to loads that the front and rear suspension have to handle.

You can google some youtube videos and see how low the front nose dips, especially when you brake [hard]. The weight transfer really drops the nose.

I would suggest you start with dialing in all your preload on the shocks as a first step (since you indicate you scrape now). Depending on what you weigh, you have 2 options, the aftermarket preload adjuster or the spring spacer. If you are around 180 or less and you don't ride 2 up, the preload adjuster might give you enough extra capacity to not bottom out. If you are north of 200 and/or you ride 2 up a lot, I would suggest the spring spacer as this device changes the effective rate of the spring and has the potential to give you the most extra capacity.

There is no free lunch; each of these types of devices uses the oem [weak] spring. If it were me, I'd just change the spring as that cost is about the same neighborhood as these devices. Your other alternative is to get aftermaket shocks with the stronger springs (that also have greater preload adjustability). but they are 5-7 times the cost of these devices/spring change.

Hope this helped.

Jerry
 
iGot2Fly,

It depends on what you weigh, do you ride 2 up (alot), and to some extent how you ride. These factors + bike weight translate to loads that the front and rear suspension have to handle.

You can google some youtube videos and see how low the front nose dips, especially when you brake [hard]. The weight transfer really drops the nose.

I would suggest you start with dialing in all your preload on the shocks as a first step (since you indicate you scrape now). Depending on what you weigh, you have 2 options, the aftermarket preload adjuster or the spring spacer. If you are around 180 or less and you don't ride 2 up, the preload adjuster might give you enough extra capacity to not bottom out. If you are north of 200 and/or you ride 2 up a lot, I would suggest the spring spacer as this device changes the effective rate of the spring and has the potential to give you the most extra capacity.

There is no free lunch; each of these types of devices uses the oem [weak] spring. If it were me, I'd just change the spring as that cost is about the same neighborhood as these devices. Your other alternative is to get aftermaket shocks with the stronger springs (that also have greater preload adjustability). but they are 5-7 times the cost of these devices/spring change.

Hope this helped.

Jerry
Thank you for the advice here- that does help a lot! I am slightly north of 200, but I actually weigh 100 lbs less then I did this time last year, so I am wondering now if that will help out my ground clearance.

Do you know if modifying the stock suspension would effect the stability? I don't know much about this, but I am thing about it cornering differently and sitting higher.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
 
I must not understand your reasoning, but I haven't had that problem, and I ride on a gravel road every day.

David

I pulled mine down and there was peebles and crap on the top of the plate. There is a small gap where the push on nuts go over the plastic and creates a small gap. So with that the weather strip to fill the void comes to mind. Not saying this will stop all things from coming into that area but if I can cut it down that's a plus for me anyway. :thumbup:
 
Food for thought

How many have installed bumpskid and what is your thoughts at to it need/utility? Lighted or plain?

I got the unlite version.. I have lots of other LED's on my bike, dont want it to look like a Xmas tree going down the road..One other feature to your "Bumpskid" besides protecting the undercarraige is that it provides more "downforce on the front end of your bike" better handling on them windy days..
 
I pulled mine down and there was peebles and crap on the top of the plate. There is a small gap where the push on nuts go over the plastic and creates a small gap. So with that the weather strip to fill the void comes to mind. Not saying this will stop all things from coming into that area but if I can cut it down that's a plus for me anyway. :thumbup:

Thanks for the explanation, I don't plan on taking the bumpskid off so IF there is any trash between it and the belly of the trike, so be it.

David
 
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