sgerksinwi
Member
As a fellow 21 RT owner.
How did the dealer explain how the water get in the fuse box?
How did the dealer explain how the water get in the fuse box?
Wasn't there a TSB on this back a fair while (2013/14 or maybe 15??) I have a vague recollection that BRP told everyone it might be an issue &/or provided a different gasket for the fuse boxes/did some other fix?!? :dontknow:
However, if that IS the case & BRP are aware it could be an issue, & your Spyder hasn't had the suggested/mandated remedial work done, then I don't think they've got a leg to stand on as far as denying the claim - they certainly wouldn't here in Oz!! Known issue that they've suggested/provided a fix for that hasn't been done to your bike, then it's up to them to prove that you elected not to have it done.... :banghead:
Can anyone else remember what happened re the 'Water in Fuse Box' issues way back whenever?!? Or is it just my Forgetory??![]()
For people asking how water gets in the fuse box, be aware, there are 2 covers on the fuse box. The first cover in the frunk simply keeps water out of the frunk and has a foam gasket. It has nothing to do with keeping water out of the fuse boxes. The second cover is actually on the fuse box. It is sealed with a yellow silicone gasket, but the cover must be fully seated (you should hear 2 clicks). Grease, vaseline, or dielectric grease can be added to the yellow gasket to help with the seal. You must be sure that cover is fully secured or water will get in no matter what.
This is bad. The water was green because it contained copper and organic compounds, indicating advanced damage.
I recommend removing the frunk; removing and inspecting all relays and fuses; mechanically cleaning (no abrasives) all contacts (for relays and fuses this is easy, not so much for the block); reinstalling the relays and fuses; and then conducting a stationary end-to-end systems test.
I think BRP uses sealed ATC fuses for the F-series rather than open ATO fuses. If they are ATOs then replace them. And I'm thinking the J-series are open -- if so replace them. The relays should all be sealed so no replacement needed.
For cleaning sprays, I recommend the cheaper CRC 5103 Quick Dry Electronic Cleaner for initial cleaning followed by Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT for final cleaning and lubrication of the contacts.
The relay/fuse blocks are the environmentally weak part of the Spyder electrical system. Most of the rest has excellent sealing protection.
Best wishes.
Would a good shot of contact cleaner on the fuses(electronic ) help to keep the moisture out?
No sir. Contact cleaner is made to evaporate away to nothing. It evaporates grease and oil but leaves no protective film behind. There are some cleaners out there that claim to be somewhat corrosion protective but defeat the purpose in my opinion. CRC QD (which is one of the best) makes no such claim.
I have a 21 RT.
Took outer covers off.Yep little water in each.
Inner one's look ok.
Would a good shot of contact cleaner on the fuses(electronic ) help to keep the moisture out?
....Well I just wanted to know how long your Spyder was in the Shop?
Sometimes a month or two is more than enough.
Stay Healthy. ....:thumbup: