Broken Adjuster, Help

[spyrog]

I took the Spyder to the dealer last week to have the shocks bumped up to 5. The left adjuster tab broke but the adjuster is still holding. The dealer ordered the new adjuster but it looks like it won't be here till
Tuesday. I am leaving for Gatlinburg on Sunday morning and the dealer says he thinks it would be ok to go but if the adjuster breaks the shock might collapse.

Any thoughts. I hate to cancel

 

[Lamonster]

I wouldn't do it. See if they will swap a shock for you from one of their demo's.

 

[Dudley]

I took the Spyder to the dealer last week to have the shocks bumped up to 5. The left adjuster tab broke but the adjuster is still holding. The dealer ordered the new adjuster but it looks like it won't be here till
Tuesday. I am leaving for Gatlinburg on Sunday morning and the dealer says he thinks it would be ok to go but if the adjuster breaks the shock might collapse.

Any thoughts. I hate to cancel

If a dealer can't adjust a shock without breaking part of it, would you trust them to actually perform technical services on your Spyder???

 

[spyrog]

Shock fixed

I looked at the adjuster today and it was almost gone. Literally minutes before I called the Red Roof to cancel the dealer (Honda of Winston Salem) called back. He had a Spyder delivered with a broken nose piece so he swaped the adjuster and will use the one they ordered for me on the other Spyder. I took the shock off and ran it over and they rebuilt it while I waited. Took 20 minutes and no charge. I didn't buy my Spyder here but if I get serious about an RT for "Aragog" (the wife) I will definately go here first.

I read on one of these sites that the adjusters are pretty shabby so that's why I took it to the dealer. They adjusted the right and rear with no problems but the left just ripped apart. I was there and they followed the procedure. They had to admit that the adjuster is really a piece of junk. I have never seen one of these made out of what I call "pot metal".

This dealer has been really good about getting me in and out on time and they are very knowledgeable about the Spyder. They also charge about 1/2 what the robber barrons in Arizona charge.

 

[Toys42]

Left adjuster

Good to hear your dealer took care of you Spyrog.

I agree the adjuster is not strong enough for the preload on the spring. Just as many others have experienced, it is the left adjuster that breaks. I am not sure why this happens. I had the dealer set ours on the 5th setting during the replacement but I would love to try the 4th if I thought I could ever make the adjustment without breaking it again.

Are the billet adjusters stronger?

 

[wyliec]

Good to hear your dealer took care of you Spyrog.

I agree the adjuster is not strong enough for the preload on the spring. Just as many others have experienced, it is the left adjuster that breaks. I am not sure why this happens. I had the dealer set ours on the 5th setting during the replacement but I would love to try the 4th if I thought I could ever make the adjustment without breaking it again.

Are the billet adjusters stronger?

I have the billet adjusters and Carlo (BRP) said they are not any stronger; he checked with his engineering contact. My stock left one had gotten messed up when adjusting it.

 

[BeRight]

Interesting - that is the same side that Lamonster broke on the RT - - looks like no improvement.

 

[spyryder]

Sounds like an opportunity for someone to "invent" a spring compressor to take the load off before trying to adjust.:f_spider:

 

[bone crusher]

Amazingly, I adjusted my front shocks with no lift and only the tool provider...a little elbow grease and all was fine...went from 3 to 4 and that's where she'll remain...

I'm surprised a lot of people/dealers have been breaking them...makes me wonder how they're trying to crank the darn thing...should be rotational with some pull...perhaps straight spinning is creating problem...

 

[Toys42]

Bone Crusher, I was using the tool and adjusted the right shock without a problem. I agree you need to pull in the direction of the rotation.

It definately requires more effort for the left shock than the right but I was on the blind faith that it should work. Others have sprayed WD-40 before adjusting but my point is that you should not have to oil up your front suspension to make this change. Either the tab on the shock needs to be thicker or the adjustment ring needs to be thicker or made of steel so it does not spread around the tab.

In comparsion to our other issues, this is minor one but I would hope BRP will improve on this design with the 2010 production.

 

[Beon1]

Spring Adjuster

I broke my right one today . Piece of SH-T. Out of warranty. IS BRP standing behind these out of warranty?:yikes::dontknow:

 

[SpyderWolf]

Glad to hear the dealer took care of you with the cannibalized part. The same thing happened to me, and the dealer took one off a Spyder that was on the showroom floor. I have been going back to them for any issues with my Spyder ever since. :thumbup:

 

[Firefly]

It's like a $12 part unless you buy the billet version which is $75 for a complete set. The billet version seems much more heavy duty - which is why I bought a set. A good dealer will most likely hook you up.

 

[KipDM]

since i weigh 300 lbs i had the dealer set my fronts at 4 (out of 5 for the 11 RSS) and the rear to 5 (of 7).

course this may explain the (slightly) stiff ryde.

but don't wanna go to a lower setting and it get all mushy under my girth.

 

[wyliec]

It's like a $12 part unless you buy the billet version which is $75 for a complete set. The billet version seems much more heavy duty - which is why I bought a set. A good dealer will most likely hook you up.

Firefly,

Look at post #6. Is the billet version really stronger?

 

[Firefly]

Bone Crusher, I was using the tool and adjusted the right shock without a problem. I agree you need to pull in the direction of the rotation.

It definately requires more effort for the left shock than the right but I was on the blind faith that it should work. Others have sprayed WD-40 before adjusting but my point is that you should not have to oil up your front suspension to make this change. Either the tab on the shock needs to be thicker or the adjustment ring needs to be thicker or made of steel so it does not spread around the tab.

In comparsion to our other issues, this is minor one but I would hope BRP will improve on this design with the 2010 production.

Agree with most of what you've said - except for needing to oil up (WD) the shock prior to adjustment. The shocks get dirty and stuck-- which is not a BRP problem-- you'll get dirt and whatnot in them that will cause binding when trying to adjust them. Spray a little WD and let it soak in.

 

[Firefly]

Firefly,

Look at post #6. Is the billet version really stronger?

It sure seems beefier to me.

 

[DougB]

Are you guys raising the front wheels off the ground? You should be.

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: Taking the weight off of the front end makes all of the difference in the World! :2thumbs:
Doesn't this fall under the "Read the dang manual" portion of the sermon?

 

[Beon1]

raising the front

Yes I did. That last part of the casting past the #5 saddle just crumbled. The material looks like pot metal (Crumbly cast) . Several pieces. From both sides of the shock on the right side.