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998cc Brass shavings in engine oil

My friend is currently away on holidays for a week or two and we'll talk when he returns.
I've offered to strip it and have a look which gives me the opportunity to do a little diagnosis myself. As suggested I'm also looking into which model Aprillia's had the same engine to see if it increases the chances of getting a good engine from a wreckers if required.
It will be a slow process going forward at the moment but as it is the machine sits in my friend's yard under a tarp not touched. It will still sit in my yard because I don't have a workshop of or garage but I can erect a crude shelter to keep it protected and give me somewhere dry to work (we've been getting more rain than I remember getting during summers).
I'm looking into getting the diagnosis module if I can pick one up for a decent price with a license for the diagnostics software. This may answer a few questions about the machine.

If I can get the machine in a good working, saleable condition without the need for a full strip down or engine rebuild/replacement this will be the best outcome. I'm doing this free to help a friend.

Thanks again everyone for the much appreciated replies and suggestions!
 
My friend is currently away on holidays for a week or two and we'll talk when he returns.
I've offered to strip it and have a look which gives me the opportunity to do a little diagnosis myself. As suggested I'm also looking into which model Aprillia's had the same engine to see if it increases the chances of getting a good engine from a wreckers if required.
It will be a slow process going forward at the moment but as it is the machine sits in my friend's yard under a tarp not touched. It will still sit in my yard because I don't have a workshop of or garage but I can erect a crude shelter to keep it protected and give me somewhere dry to work (we've been getting more rain than I remember getting during summers).
I'm looking into getting the diagnosis module if I can pick one up for a decent price with a license for the diagnostics software. This may answer a few questions about the machine.

If I can get the machine in a good working, saleable condition without the need for a full strip down or engine rebuild/replacement this will be the best outcome. I'm doing this free to help a friend.

Thanks again everyone for the much appreciated replies and suggestions!

An Aprillia entire engine will not plug and play since the Aprillia is 6 forward gears and the Spyder is 5 forward gears and one reverse gear.

Apparently some parts interchange. My suggestion was talk with Aprillia mechanic as they may know your exact issue and likely are more skilled in fixing it. Then again, they may not want anything to do with a Spyder which is understandable also.
 
Pretty sure this is what you will be discussing in reference to Aprillias. As I mentioned, you might consider searching out a specialist and asking about the possible source for metal in the oil.

As I also mentioned, somewhere buried in the topics here, there was a guy that had metal and did his own work. That topic is one you should find and learn from in regards to if you wish to tackle this yourself.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aprilia_RSV_1000_R
 
Someone may know this, is the Rotax engine using a cassette type gearbox?
If so it could (I'm not saying it is or would) be a simple matter of dropping one gear cluster/cassette out and replacing it with the original Spyder unit if that's in good condition still. I'll have to look into it, I know a lot of bikes built for the track run a system like this which makes gear ratio swaps a simple matter of swapping out a pre-configured cassette type system. I haven't had experience with these gearbox assemblies as such but have seen mention (my all time dream bike, MV Agusta's run cassette type gearboxes).

OK, I lied, my Honda CX500 had exactly this system (I did more research), a cassette type gear cluster I learned to hold the correct way when sliding it out of the crankcase after dropping every individual gear on the ground because none of the 3 service manuals mentioned anything. I put one washer in the wrong place and split the final drive output section of the crank case. I had it TIG welded by a specialist but it didn't hold and I scrapped a VERY expensive full rebuild (lightened and balanced, cam, pistons, everything was the best money could buy) because I was always impressed by the ugly old CX500 Honda I'd owned and done a lot of K's on (with suspension and other enhancements which made it handle like a dream - 1980 model, still own an 81 model with genuine 39,000 kilometres on it in a very ratty condition due to poor storage) Plus it was one of the most reliable bikes I've ever owned, not fast, but served me well going half way around Australia with the then missus on the back and a lot of camping/touring gear.

I will search for the thread mentioned and thanks again folks!
 
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