Brakes...

[bruiser]

On Bruisersbaby's 2010 RTS, when she starts it after sitting overnight she gets the brake failure indication. But as soon as she touches the pedal it goes out and stays out. This is an intermittent issue and just started as the weather turned colder at night. There are no active codes. I've been through the brake system several times and can't find anything. No air in the lines. The fluid is full and was just changed in June. It only occurs on occasion and once it does on the initial start doesn't happen again. Brakes work fine. Just throwing this out to see if anyone else may have run across this.

 

[jerpinoy]

Perhaps the computer is just rebooting.

 

[ulflyer]

Brake pads good?

 

[Magdave]

Brake fluid full?

 

[Bob Denman]

Sitting overnight? Perhaps everything is just draining down to the lowest possible location in the system... she pumps it back up as soon as the pedal takes a jab... :dontknow:

 

[Magdave]

Sitting overnight? Perhaps everything is just draining down to the lowest possible location in the system... she pumps it back up as soon as the pedal takes a jab... :dontknow:

:agree: Check your fluid levels before you pump the brake. These bikes are quite picky about the levels.

 

[bruiser]

The fluid is full and was just changed in June. As stated in the original post.

 

[Magdave]

The fluid is full and was just changed in June. As stated in the original post.

That doesn't mean you haven't worn the pads and lowered the level when did you check it last? It only takes a fraction of an inch to pop the light and If changed some air may have been induced that is starting to bubble up to the cylinder. I can't hurt to check.:thumbup:

 

[billybovine]

Do you get the message before or after you start the engine? Any devices in the VSS system could be at fault. Maybe time to get a code.

Have you checked the fluid level? :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

 

[Schnauzer]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but once you get a brake failure indication, you need to have it reset thru the BUDS. Just to make the warning go away..Our rear shoes are completely worn out,Changing out t'day, no warning at all. Other than the cramp in my leg from rolling my ankle far enough to get them to contact.:roflblack:.

 

[billybovine]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but once you get a brake failure indication, you need to have it reset thru the BUDS.

Another myth, just like removing the key or doing the chicken dance. :roflblack: The status of a fault will change from active to occurred when the cause of the fault is corrected. Depending on the fault it may clear immediately, after a period of time or restart cycle.

 

[CyncySpyder]

We had a similar issue & here's what we discovered.... Can't hurt to check

On Bruisersbaby's 2010 RTS, when she starts it after sitting overnight she gets the brake failure indication. But as soon as she touches the pedal it goes out and stays out. This is an intermittent issue and just started as the weather turned colder at night. There are no active codes. I've been through the brake system several times and can't find anything. No air in the lines. The fluid is full and was just changed in June. It only occurs on occasion and once it does on the initial start doesn't happen again. Brakes work fine. Just throwing this out to see if anyone else may have run across this.

When it 1st gives the Brake Failure Indication, before tapping the brakes to make it go away, have you tried pulling up the codes at this time to see if any show? I know you stated that there are no active codes, but I'm curious if you checked after the brakes were tapped & the Brake Failure Indication went away, as it would no longer be 'Active'...... just ask'n :dontknow:

We had a similar issue with Teds Red Sled (2011 RT-S) and like you thought our Brake Fluid Level was full. Upon closer inspection, and going thru our Maintenance Manual for help, we discovered an issue I was unaware of. When you remove the caps from the resevoir, flip the cap over and check under the cap and you'll notice there is a black rubber lining. That lining has a small V shaped slit cut into the center of it. On one of our caps the lining looked flat, the slit barely visible and it looked as it should compared to the picture in our manual. The other cap however didn't look like the first one, and the rubber lining was 'pooched/puckered' out and the V shaped slit was very visible.

You know I'm not a mechanic & I forget what the manual said the reason or purpose of those were, but I do remember that it said that condition (pooched out) can happen and all you need to do is push the lining back into the cap so that it once again lays flat like the first one was.

Another issue we noticed was, even tho our fluid level on both resevoirs were showing at the FULL Mark, our upper resevoirs 'Float Valve' was sticking and not giving an accurate reading. So even tho visually we could see the resevoir was full, the computer was getting a different signal indicating a Brake Failure Warning. We were able to take a small flat head scredriver (eye-glass type) and play with the float-valve up and down and we got it working just like the front one was.

I'm not sure if any of this is your issue, but it can't hurt to check these things as well and Teddy & I hope you get it solved :thumbup:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but once you get a brake failure indication, you need to have it reset thru the BUDS. Just to make the warning go away..Our rear shoes are completely worn out,Changing out t'day, no warning at all. Other than the cramp in my leg from rolling my ankle far enough to get them to contact.:roflblack:.

Another myth, just like removing the key or doing the chicken dance. :roflblack: The status of a fault will change from active to occurred when the cause of the fault is corrected. Depending on the fault it may clear immediately, after a period of time or restart cycle.

Interesting In our 2011 Repair/Maintenance Manual, it DOES indicate that after certain Brake Failure Warnings/Codes, that they can/have to be MANUALLY CLEARED from the system, and NOT by using BUDS. I forget the exact sequence, but its something like turning the key to on, waiting 30 seconds, turn the key to off and firmly press down on the brake pedal til you hear the first click, then keep pressing til you hear a second click, then turn the key back to on and wait 30 seconds, and then the code should be cleared. We actually had to do it 3 or 4 times before we could get ours to clear, but it finally worked and the Code/Warning went away :thumbup:

 

[billybovine]

Interesting In our 2011 Repair/Maintenance Manual, it DOES indicate that after certain Brake Failure Warnings/Codes, that they can/have to be MANUALLY CLEARED from the system, and NOT by using BUDS. I forget the exact sequence, but its something like turning the key to on, waiting 30 seconds, turn the key to off and firmly press down on the brake pedal til you hear the first click, then keep pressing til you hear a second click, then turn the key back to on and wait 30 seconds, and then the code should be cleared. We actually had to do it 3 or 4 times before we could get ours to clear, but it finally worked and the Code/Warning went away :thumbup:
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I don't remember seeing that procedure before and I can't find it in the 2013 manual. What section was that under? Maybe I just missed it and need to narrow my search. Maybe the VSS needs a special procedure?

There may be some confusion on how faults work. When a fault is active that is when it causes the warnings to happen. When the cause of the fault is corrected its' state changes to occurred and disappears as far as the operator is concerned, but does not go away, it is stored and can only be cleared by BUDS. In the brakes section of the service manual it instructs the tech to clear the brake faults in BUDS. They mean the occurred faults and that's important because you don't want the tech looking for problem that no longer exists because it was not cleared the last time it was in the shop.

In my previous post I mentioned that a restart was needed to change some faults from active to occurred. I should also mention that means the key should be off for more than 30 seconds.

 

[ulflyer]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but once you get a brake failure indication, you need to have it reset thru the BUDS. Just to make the warning go away..Our rear shoes are completely worn out,Changing out t'day, no warning at all. Other than the cramp in my leg from rolling my ankle far enough to get them to contact.:roflblack:.

I did the front & rears on a buddy's RT last wed and afterwards when I started it up the "Brake Failure" light had disappeared.

If you've not done yours yet, after you thoroughly clean the "pins" that the rear pads float on, smear a little moly or anti-seize on them where they go thru the holes of the pads.

Those pins often rust and cause the pads not to float as they should and they'll wear prematurely. If you use OEM pads they come with new pins for the rear.

Front OEM's come with clips already installed; otherwise you have to remove the clips from the old pads and reinsert into the new ones and they can be a bitch to get out. Does anyone know of a source for just the front pins? They're easy enough to insert, just hard to get out.

Edited: His code was C0049. Mine was C1282. Both were due to worn brake pads although the C1282 points one towards about everything but brake pads.

Also, his '11 RT had around 26-27K on the OEM's. My rears wore out much earlier at 20K.

 

[CyncySpyder]

I don't remember seeing that procedure before and I can't find it in the 2013 manual. What section was that under? Maybe I just missed it and need to narrow my search. Maybe the VSS needs a special procedure?

Just got home so I could double check, and the manual reset I posted about is for clearing a LPS (Low Pressure Switch) Fault in the Braking System. After the problem has been resolved, the manual states:

it is necessary to clear the occurred fault in the VCM as follows:
& it continues with the step by step directions.

This is on page 700, Section 07 CHASSIS, Subsection 05 (BRAKES) In the 2012 Spyder RT Plus green-manual :thumbup: