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Brake fluid,open can

kman

New member
I added a small amount of brake fluid last winter when I had intermitent brake failure message due to level being a tad low.I am now getting the same intermitent message again.The question is can I use the fluid from the can I bought last year or is this a no-no as I read on the can?
 
Well since I'm Cheap; I'll use what's in the can until it's used up... :opps:
I'm probably being a bit paranoid; but I think they say that to simply sell more cans of the stuff... :gaah:
 
Sure

Sure you can use it, but it's gotta be a PITA eventually. Rusty stuff in the master cylinder and all those other expensive parts. Toss the can, buy some new and drain/bleed the system and then probably get Nanny pissed at you and scream all the time. Dealer will love it when you call to do the repair job. Like Mr Pitman says, it's hydroscopic and besides that, it sucks up water!!
Please don't ask me how I learned this factoid, many years ago :banghead:
Tuck
 
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I added a small amount of brake fluid last winter when I had intermittent brake failure message due to level being a tad low.I am now getting the same intermittent message again.The question is can I use the fluid from the can I bought last year or is this a no-no as I read on the can?

Don't use it, For the few bucks your gonna save, You might pay for it in the long run.
Water in the brake lines will not be a good thing.
 
Technically, you should not use it. If it is still nearly full, has been tightly sealed, and is in heated storage or a dry climate, you will probably be OK, though. Pour a little into a clear container and look for any signs of visible water. If none, top off your master cylinder. I would be more worried about why it is low again. Either you have a brake system leak, or your brake pads are being used up at a rapid rate. I'd have the brake system inspected at your earliest opportunity.
 
Try Silicon Based Brake Fluids

When in doubt, it is almost always best to not use older brake fluid that has been open for any length of time. Some of the newer synthetic stuff seems to have a longer life and is not supposed to attract moisture as bad. You still do not want to mix different types of brake fluids.

A long time ago, a friend told me that 'starting is an option, but stopping is not' so I tend to be more careful with anything that keeps me stopping correctly.

There is more info on the subject of brake fluids on the attached link talking about water retention, absorption, application and compressibility. Other links note that all brake fluids degrade over time. Probably the reason that the maintenance sheet on my Spyder recommends changing the brake fluid at 12k miles.
http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/fluid.shtml
 
I added a small amount of brake fluid last winter when I had intermitent brake failure message due to level being a tad low.I am now getting the same intermitent message again.The question is can I use the fluid from the can I bought last year or is this a no-no as I read on the can?

How old is your Spyder? When the last time your brake fluid replaced? How many miles are on your Spyder? Is the parking brake adjusted correctly? How worn are your brakes pads? When a new can of brake fluid is opened, it's ok to use for 2 - 3 years. When kept in a cool dry place. But my car owner manual said to replace the brake fluid every 5 years. When I have my brake fluid changed I buy my own brake fluid from Auto Zone and ask for the best brake fluid they sell. That's IMHO.


Mike
 
In lieu of bringing it to the dealer for a drain/bleed job-
Could you suck out half the fluid in the brake reservoirs with a bulb pump and then add the proper amount of New fluid-thus refreshing about half the fluid in the system? How could this hurt?:dontknow:
 
New can of Dot 4 Brake fluid - about $10.00

Knowing that you're not introducing water into your brake system - priceless
 
Can you really see if there is water in brake fluid? It supposedly is absorbed. I thought that would make a solution of water and fluid. That would be like trying to see a shake of salt in a glass of water. Tell me where I'm wrong.

If your bottle is sealed well I wouldn't be concerned about using the old stuff. Maybe after 2 years. My latest brake fluid is synthetic and says that it's completely compatible with the original stuff.

What's the best way to pour fluid into the Spyder without removing the seat? I bought a tester for anti-freeze for a buck and took the floating balls out and then used that. It works pretty well if you only need to add a small amount like trying to keep the Nanny happy.

My other worry is how to dispose of the old fluid responsibly. It's nasty stuff and nobody talks about how to dispose of it. Years ago I read one person saying to bury it 2 spades deep. Hmmmm. :sour:
 
Brake Fluid and Brake Fluid Reservoir

When I installed my Comfort Seat, I noticed that it would be easy to top off the brake fluid, if it needed it, it didn't. Since then, I couldn't help noticing the location of the reservoir and how hard it is to view let along fill. Looks to be a real PITA! Glad I read this thread, now I will have to find a sucker upper and spitter outer with a long flexible nose, Probably could use a mirror and a small trouble light just to see when the level is correct. Don't you just love designers who don't have to service what they design? If and when I need it, I will purchase a fresh bottle/can of fluid. Didn't realize something like brake fluid could get bad.

If your local sanitation department supports recycling, they should accept brake fluid along with motor oil and unused paint.
 
old oil

most all auto parts chain stores like autozone, ect.accept used oil. i'm told it gets recycled into lighter weight oils, and fuel oil.:thumbup:
 
A word of caution if you are going to use a "sucker-upper, picker-outer" to fill your brake fluid reservoir. Brake systems are very sensitive to the slightest little bit of contamination! You should always pour directly from the bottle of brake fluid. If you absolutely can't, pour some into a clean, dry container, then transfer from there. Make sure your "syringe" is scrupulously clean and dry, too. Fill your "syringe" enough to make the transfer in one fill. Do not go back into the container for a second helping. Your life may depend on this, so it is no place to cut corners! nojoke
 
A word of caution if you are going to use a "sucker-upper, picker-outer" to fill your brake fluid reservoir. Brake systems are very sensitive to the slightest little bit of contamination! You should always pour directly from the bottle of brake fluid. If you absolutely can't, pour some into a clean, dry container, then transfer from there. Make sure your "syringe" is scrupulously clean and dry, too. Fill your "syringe" enough to make the transfer in one fill. Do not go back into the container for a second helping. Your life may depend on this, so it is no place to cut corners! nojoke

:roflblack: Say it isn,t sooo??
 
Agree with the conservatives. Brake fluid absorbs moisture which lowers the boiling point and increases the compressibility. Both undesirable although you may not notice the difference unless you're a professional racer. Or headed down a long mountain and the fluid boils. The moisture also causes corrosion. Depending on the materials used, the pistons can corrode and become difficult to move in the calipers. Just ask anyone who owned an old British sports car in the 60's with Girling brakes. Or a mid-year Corvette ('65 onward had 4-wheel disc brakes). I re-fitted my 'Vette with stainless steel sleeves in the calipers to prevent corrosion, and bleed them as often as I bleed the motorcycles -- every two years. Hopefully the "modern" vehicle mfrs are choosing their materials better and reducing the incidence of corrosion but it still happens. And don't even think about using old fluid. Just my two cents' worth.
 
My sucker/spitter was new out of the package. I punched a hole in the seal of the new can to draw the fluid out. It took about 3 times to get the level filled enough. It is now in a zip-lock bag labeled for brake fluid only. If too much time goes by before needing it again I'll buy another. It was 97 cents! I understand the need for cleanliness but I can't imagine any mechanics shop coming anywhere near the standards suggested here. To pour directly into the reservoir would require me to remove the seat. Even then I wouldn't try to pour w/o using a funnel. You can't get near the opening and spills can be very serious.

The choice is yours. Pick your 'poison'! :pray:
 
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