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Brake fluid change

cbredneck

New member
If the brake fluid change is done without the buds unit, how many panic stops would it take to purge the ABS system. It would seem that this could be done and then bleed the system again to have fresh fluid in the entire system. Any thoughts. Thanks
 
If the brake fluid change is done without the buds unit, how many panic stops would it take to purge the ABS system. It would seem that this could be done and then bleed the system again to have fresh fluid in the entire system. Any thoughts. Thanks

Are you aware that there is a bleeder on the ABS controller. Unless there is air in the system, the small amount of remaining fluid is not a big issue.
 
Ditto

If the brake fluid change is done without the buds unit, how many panic stops would it take to purge the ABS system. It would seem that this could be done and then bleed the system again to have fresh fluid in the entire system. Any thoughts. Thanks

My thought is the same as yours. I am going to do mine this spring exactly how you said. I work at a quarry that has a long dirt hill. I'm going to flush and bleed the system, ride it to the top of the hill and lock 'em up a few times on the way down. Then go home and flush and bleed again. I know there is a bleeder on the ABS and there might not be much captured inside but I'm going to try this anyway.
 
My thought is the same as yours. I am going to do mine this spring exactly how you said. I work at a quarry that has a long dirt hill. I'm going to flush and bleed the system, ride it to the top of the hill and lock 'em up a few times on the way down. Then go home and flush and bleed again. I know there is a bleeder on the ABS and there might not be much captured inside but I'm going to try this anyway.

And of course you will let us know how this works out right?:thumbup:
 
Don't know. ..!!

What I do know is that to get the nanny to apply the brakes you need to his some fast corners or lift a wheel...:yikes:
 
My thought is the same as yours. I am going to do mine this spring exactly how you said. I work at a quarry that has a long dirt hill. I'm going to flush and bleed the system, ride it to the top of the hill and lock 'em up a few times on the way down. Then go home and flush and bleed again. I know there is a bleeder on the ABS and there might not be much captured inside but I'm going to try this anyway.

Have you considered that if all three wheels skid, there is no difference in wheel rotation speed and the ABS may not activate?

BTW, all the best on the dirt road. Take care not to pick up a stone and puncture the belt.
 
Don't need nanny. I just need to get ABS to activate to pump dirty fluid out of controller then flush and bleed again to remove it.
 
Have you considered that if all three wheels skid, there is no difference in wheel rotation speed and the ABS may not activate?

I believe my "antilock braking system" will not allow my wheels to skid.

If a wheel stops turning or slows significantly faster than another, the brake pressure to that wheel is reduced until it regains rpm.

if all three wheels skid, there is no relative wheel speed or even gearbox output shaft speed, therefore you may find the abs confused think the Spyder is not moving and the wheels will lock up.

For grins, try it with a car first, lock up all the wheels quickly, see if the system releases the brake pressure to all four wheels. Seems unlikely but maybe.

If the wheels on the Spyder will not skid, then the computer is sensing rate of decelleration change of all wheels, and honestly, that could be scary in some situations.
 
Bleeding brakes/replacing fluid?

I have been riding motorcycles for almost 40 years. Other than adding some fluid occasionally I have never replaced all the fluid in any motorcycle I have ever owned. Now that I think about it I have never done it on any vehicle that I owned except for the one that had a broken line and I lost most of the fluid. Somebody educate me on the need to replace the brake fluid please.:dontknow:
 
If a wheel stops turning or slows significantly faster than another, the brake pressure to that wheel is reduced until it regains rpm.

if all three wheels skid, there is no relative wheel speed or even gearbox output shaft speed, therefore you may find the abs confused think the Spyder is not moving and the wheels will lock up.

For grins, try it with a car first, lock up all the wheels quickly, see if the system releases the brake pressure to all four wheels. Seems unlikely but maybe.

If the wheels on the Spyder will not skid, then the computer is sensing rate of decelleration change of all wheels, and honestly, that could be scary in some situations.

I have tried it with my car. Up here in the winter my abs kicks in a few times daily when the roads are slick. If I stomp on the brake pedal and hold it there the abs will not allow lock-up. I don't know how you could make your wheels lock if the system is working properly.
 
I have been riding motorcycles for almost 40 years. Other than adding some fluid occasionally I have never replaced all the fluid in any motorcycle I have ever owned. Now that I think about it I have never done it on any vehicle that I owned except for the one that had a broken line and I lost most of the fluid. Somebody educate me on the need to replace the brake fluid please.:dontknow:

Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs moisture from the air. After a couple years it absorbs enough to start corroding your brake system from the inside. The fluid itself will get very dark (new fluid is clear) , your brake pedal will travel further and you will be pushing it harder to stop because it is contaminated. The degradation is subtle over time but if you replace the fluid you will see a big difference.
 
I have tried this on a car while driving down a dirt road, and all of the wheels locked up. Was fun though.

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