Brake failure so thinking of these brakes

[Stridersr7]

So everyone says check your brake fluid. I did and topped it off with Motul Dot4. Still says it. Saw these pads for $19.99. Thought might as well change the brakes out. Bike might have 12k miles on it

https://www.amazon.com/2008-2012-Sp...der+2009&qid=1533511140&sr=8-1&ref=mp_s_a_1_1

 

[Stridersr7]

So everyone says check your brake fluid. I did and topped it off with Motul Dot4. Still says it. Saw these pads for $19.99. Thought might as well change the brakes out. Bike might have 12k miles on it

https://www.amazon.com/2008-2012-Sp...der+2009&qid=1533511140&sr=8-1&ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Ok. Brakes looked fine. But a code came up when I went thru codes

 

[Stridersr7]

Maybe I should bleed them. Idk

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BRAKE PADS

So everyone says check your brake fluid. I did and topped it off with Motul Dot4. Still says it. Saw these pads for $19.99. Thought might as well change the brakes out. Bike might have 12k miles on it

https://www.amazon.com/2008-2012-Sp...der+2009&qid=1533511140&sr=8-1&ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I'm super FRUGAL ( ie Cheap :roflblack: ) ...... ever heard - you get what you pay for ....... BajaRon sells EBC Quality Brake Pads :clap:and they are a WELL KNOWN commodity. Maybe the best pads sold .... Do you want to take a chance the ones from Amazon aren't really all that good ..or worse poorly made and the pad comes off the backing plate :gaah:. I know tires but not Brake pads ...but I know Ron and trust He is buying the best for your Spyder .....jmho .... Mike ...PS He is a Sponsor/ vendor on the Forum .....

 

[Chupaca]

Here's the thing....

Brake warnings come from many places. The fluid is only one. Others include brake light switch, brake pressure, ryding the brakes, bulbs, brake pads are related to the low fluid. I do agree to got with the EBC pad from BajaRon. :thumbup:

 

[yellow peril]

brakes

Had same problem. Bleed brakes changing all fluid at the same time. Air and water was in rear brake line. Pedal came back to original position and was solid. To remove brake warning I turned key on let it scroll through all messages,pressed down hard on brake pedal turned key off waited at least 30 seconds. turned key on and message was gone.

 

[BajaRon]

I'm super FRUGAL ( ie Cheap :roflblack: ) ...... ever heard - you get what you pay for ....... BajaRon sells EBC Quality Brake Pads :clap:and they are a WELL KNOWN commodity. Maybe the best pads sold .... Do you want to take a chance the ones from Amazon aren't really all that good ..or worse poorly made and the pad comes off the backing plate :gaah:. I know tires but not Brake pads ...but I know Ron and trust He is buying the best for your Spyder .....jmho .... Mike ...PS He is a Sponsor/ vendor on the Forum .....

I started to post here a few times but deleted it. I just feel tacky posting less than positive things about another product that competes with what I sell. On the other hand, i feel an obligation to warn Spyder riders about a product if I have knowledge of it. Plus, you can take or leave what I say. It doesn't hurt my feelings either way.

Kevlar sounds cool! But this just means these are Organic pads similar to the OEM pads. But there can be different qualities and amounts of Kevlar in a brake pad. And like doctors, you don't know if you got a good one until it's too late! OK, a bit of an exaggeration. Bad pads can be replaced. Getting the wrong kidney removed... not so much.

I have had a few customers doing research call me and say; 'Why should I buy your pad set when I can get 3 sets of these for the same price?' In the beginning I couldn't say one way or the other because I had no experience with the Kevlar pads. In the cases where they purchased these pad sets I got another call awhile later asking to purchase a set of my pads. They said that these pads did not stop as well, faded easily, and wore out much more quickly than the OEM pads. Even though they were less expensive, they didn't want to have to do a brake service every time they turned around.

Will you have the same experience? I can't say. They are getting good reviews on Amazon. Reading the postings there it sounds like they are happy with them but have not ridden them much yet or not at all.

That's my 2 cents. My advise. Whether you get them from me or not, purchase the EBC Semi-Sintered (2008-2012) or the EBC Fully Sintered (2013-2018). They work very well and they last longer.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

WELLLLLLL NOW THAT YOU MENTION IT

I started to post here a few times but deleted it. I just feel tacky posting less than positive things about another product that competes with what I sell. On the other hand, i feel an obligation to warn Spyder riders about a product if I have knowledge of it. Plus, you can take or leave what I say. It doesn't hurt my feelings either way.

Kevlar sounds cool! But this just means these are Organic pads similar to the OEM pads. But there can be different qualities and amounts of Kevlar in a brake pad. And like doctors, you don't know if you got a good one until it's too late! OK, a bit of an exaggeration. Bad pads can be replaced. Getting the wrong kidney removed... not so much.

I have had a few customers doing research call me and say; 'Why should I buy your pad set when I can get 3 sets of these for the same price?' In the beginning I couldn't say one way or the other because I had no experience with the Kevlar pads. In the cases where they purchased these pad sets I got another call awhile later asking to purchase a set of my pads. They said that these pads did not stop as well, faded easily, and wore out much more quickly than the OEM pads. Even though they were less expensive, they didn't want to have to do a brake service every time they turned around.

Will you have the same experience? I can't say. They are getting good reviews on Amazon. Reading the postings there it sounds like they are happy with them but have not ridden them much yet or not at all......Something else that's interesting about Amazon reviews .... I have made some ...the positive ones get posted the negative one - - not always :lecturef_smilie:..... As to folks who really like the KEVLAR Pads , maybe they are comparing them to OEM pads they have used so haven't compared them to EBC !!! ... Like on the Forum with Tires :yikes::banghead: .... I would bet most of the KENDA lovers have NEVER tried Car tires :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:...jmho ...Great product/s Ron ..... Mike :thumbup:

That's my 2 cents. My advise. Whether you get them from me or not, purchase the EBC Semi-Sintered (2008-2012) or the EBC Fully Sintered (2013-2018). They work very well and they last longer.

See above in RED .................Mike :thumbup:

 

[willey]

breaks

have i told you how much i like mike.you paid $25.000 for your toy and you are trying to save$20.00 on a product that can save your life and save your bike.set up a pay pal account,text Ron and tell him what you want and about 3 days later they will show up on your door step.30,000 miles from now your brakes will still be working fine and you for got that they cost you an extra $20.Mike has the best advice and Ron has the best products as well as great service.while you are at it you might as well order a oil change kit.

 

[Easy Rider]

Maybe I should bleed them. Idk

Maybe you should find out what the code MEANS. Just maybe.

 

[Stridersr7]

Maybe you should find out what the code MEANS. Just maybe.

Well I topped off the brake fluid and couldn’t the code off

I checked the brake lights and they are fine

i checked the brakes and they still have life in them


so next thing I’m going to do is bleed the brakes and see what that gets me

 

[Easy Rider]

so next thing I’m going to do is bleed the brakes and see what that gets me

BAD PLAN.

Taking a wild guess at fixing a problem often ends up leaving you worse off than when you started.

In this case, because of the ABS/STABILITY control system, extra procedures are needed when servicing the brake system (bleeding).
I think I remember that a BUDS computer is required to do it right.

And I was trying to suggest that the code probably means something more than just "general brake failure" and knowing exactly what it is supposed to mean might save you a lot of time and money.

As a matter of fact, I found out the hard way that "riding the brake" just very lightly will bring up a trouble light when there really is nothing wrong......except with the rider.

 

[bscrive]

Just so that you know. We tried those Kevlar pads. They don't stop you anywhere near as good as the EBC pads that Ron sells. My wife had the kevlar pads on for a very short period of time because they were horrible.

If your brakes have never had the fluid changed, it would be a good idea to change it. The DOT4 brake fluid doesn't pick up water as much as the DOT3, but like anything else, it has a certain life span.

 

[Stridersr7]

BAD PLAN.

Taking a wild guess at fixing a problem often ends up leaving you worse off than when you started.

In this case, because of the ABS/STABILITY control system, extra procedures are needed when servicing the brake system (bleeding).
I think I remember that a BUDS computer is required to do it right.

And I was trying to suggest that the code probably means something more than just "general brake failure" and knowing exactly what it is supposed to mean might save you a lot of time and money.

As a matter of fact, I found out the hard way that "riding the brake" just very lightly will bring up a trouble light when there really is nothing wrong......except with the rider.

well after looking at the brakes and adding brake fluid and checking all the lights then what elsewhere could it be? People say Goto the stealership and spend money for the BUDS system. The ones around here when you call they don’t know everything. So they are going to charge you $110 a hour and scratch their head and hopefully only do that for one hour. Bike rides fine but doesn’t stop as well as it should be. So it seems to me maybe the fluid in the brake lines

 

[Cleg]

Brakes and B.U.D.S.

Glad to read that bleeding brakes takes more than the conventional ‘bleeding’. Spoke with my mechanic, and although he is independent now he IS BRP certified. Bleeding brakes without BUDS is only doing the job 1/2 way. Need to release the ‘guts’ to get the fluid to flow properly. Brake fliud is normally clear, once it is grey or no longer clear...change it!! Safe ridin, just sayin !

 

[Easy Rider]

well after looking at the brakes and adding brake fluid and checking all the lights then what elsewhere could it be?

It could be several things.

When you have ABS, the master cylinder does not operate the slaves directly.
There are sensors and "actuators" for each wheel.

Based on inspection, if you actually NEED brake pads, then do them, but I think that probably won't solve your problem.
And I am sure that the bleeding will not be as easy as you think.

 

[BajaRon]

have i told you how much i like mike.you paid $25.000 for your toy and you are trying to save$20.00 on a product that can save your life and save your bike.set up a pay pal account,text Ron and tell him what you want and about 3 days later they will show up on your door step.30,000 miles from now your brakes will still be working fine and you for got that they cost you an extra $20.Mike has the best advice and Ron has the best products as well as great service.while you are at it you might as well order a oil change kit.

Thank you for the kind words.

Just wanted to note that you do not need a Paypal account to use their service anymore. Used to be true. But Paypal now processes payments without having to open an account.

 

[jcthorne]

Error code C1282 is a low pressure detected code.

First look for leaks, if there are none, it indicates either old contaminated brake fluid (most likely) or a failing master cylinder. (not likely but possible).

The brake system is supposed to be flushed and bleed every 2 years. This is the nanny complaining that it was not done.

Full system flush and bleed is in order here. Then reset the code while in BUDS and should be good to go.
Yes, you need BUDS to do the full job and reset the code. If you are going to work on the bike, you need the tools or take it to some one that does.

 

[Stridersr7]

Error code C1282 is a low pressure detected code.

First look for leaks, if there are none, it indicates either old contaminated brake fluid (most likely) or a failing master cylinder. (not likely but possible).

The brake system is supposed to be flushed and bleed every 2 years. This is the nanny complaining that it was not done.

Full system flush and bleed is in order here. Then reset the code while in BUDS and should be good to go.
Yes, you need BUDS to do the full job and reset the code. If you are going to work on the bike, you need the tools or take it to some one that does.

when I looked at the fluid it was still clear in the reservoir. But idk the line.

 

[oldguyinTX]

I'm super FRUGAL ( ie Cheap :roflblack: ) ...... ever heard - you get what you pay for ....... BajaRon sells EBC Quality Brake Pads :clap:and they are a WELL KNOWN commodity. Maybe the best pads sold .... Do you want to take a chance the ones from Amazon aren't really all that good ..or worse poorly made and the pad comes off the backing plate :gaah:. I know tires but not Brake pads ...but I know Ron and trust He is buying the best for your Spyder .....jmho .... Mike ...PS He is a Sponsor/ vendor on the Forum .....

I put BajaRon's EBC fully sintered pads and rotors on my 2013 RTL and never looked back. Waaaayyyy better than OEM. And you can't ask for better customer service. You can bet that down the road when I need new brakes for my 2017 RTS, I'll be getting them from Ron.