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Brake failure so thinking of these brakes

when I looked at the fluid it was still clear in the reservoir. But idk the line.

The fluid in the reservoir is not the fluid that has been worked and heated. Besides, contaminated fluid can still be clear. Water is clear and brake fluid absorbs water over time and makes it compressible. Just because the fluid in the reservoir looks clean is not a reason to skip required maintenance. In this case, nanny has told you there IS a problem, just fix it and move on. Arguing with her will get you no where.
 
I think it's looking at the line pressure when buds is hooked up. I haven't played to much attention to it either. But I beli very you have to be at a certain line pressure for it to reset?
 
brake pressure

I'm not sure if this will work for you but before I changed fluid and bled brakes this what my brake pedal was like.
Push pedal down and listen for switch clicks the first one is for brake lights and the second click is for the pressure monitor.
After flushing and bleeding I can now only get the switch for the lights to click. and the pedal is rock solid.
My spyder is 2009 SE5
Dave
 
ok. Checked all brakes. Front and back. THey looked great

checked fluid. It was full

bleed the back brakes. Was great. Didn’t need it

redjusted parking brake because it needed it and now it’s great

brake failure code is still there.

If if I have to goto the dealership and spend $112 for a one hour thing to clear a code then that’s just plain bull****
 
Could be bad sensor

Had a similar continual issue on mine dealer did some OHM test found rear sensor had failed,
replaced & back to smiles:2thumbs:
 
Ok for $52.50 Seneca powersports will turn off the brake failure code of the problem has been fixed by me. If it hasn’t then of course they can’t turn the code warning off
 
Try This first

Ok for $52.50 Seneca powersports will turn off the brake failure code of the problem has been fixed by me. If it hasn’t then of course they can’t turn the code warning off
After you fix the issue , remove key and put it away from the Spyder …..Remove both Battery terminals , wait 5 min. then re-attach.....I think this might clear your codes …… and it's free …… Mike :thumbup:
 
After you fix the issue , remove key and put it away from the Spyder …..Remove both Battery terminals , wait 5 min. then re-attach.....I think this might clear your codes …… and it's free …… Mike :thumbup:


Lol will try that tomorrow

so basically just go out side. Remove battery. Re attach it later and put key in and see what happens
 
Well I topped off the brake fluid and couldn’t the code off

I checked the brake lights and they are fine

i checked the brakes and they still have life in them


so next thing I’m going to do is bleed the brakes and see what that gets me

This might be a little late in the game & it might even be something you've already tried, but for what it's worth, if it isn't too late/you haven't tried it yet/for all those others who might be reading to try & sort their own similar issues..... did you take your Spyder for a ryde?? :dontknow: Yeah, I know, you definitely DO need to be careful doing that, maybe even stick to just ryding up & down your driveway a few times, but often when I've seen a brake warning code pop up after someone's changed the pads & gone on to make sure everything else is fine only to still have a brake warning pop up, it goes away after ryding it for a bit!! :2thumbs:

Sometimes it's just taken a few yards of ryding & one application, sometimes it's taken almost a mile of gentle ryding &/or a few gentle brake applications during that ryde distance; but like I said, if the only thing done has been to change the pads & everything else checks out OK, going for a gentle ryde seems to be high on the list of things to do that just might work! So if you haven't done that yet, maybe you should give it a go?!? If you have, then hopefully this might help someone else! :thumbup:
 
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This might be a little late in the game & it might even be something you've already tried, but for what it's worth, if it isn't too late/you haven't tried it yet/for all those others who might be reading to try & sort their own similar issues..... did you take your Spyder for a ryde?? :dontknow: Yeah, I know, you definitely DO need to be careful doing that, maybe even stick to just ryding up & down your driveway a few times, but often when I've seen a brake warning code pop up after someone's changed the pads & gone on to make sure everything else is fine only to still have a brake warning pop up, it goes away after ryding it for a bit!! :2thumbs:

Sometimes it's just taken a few yards of ryding & one application, sometimes it's taken almost a mile of gentle ryding &/or a few gentle brake applications during that ryde distance; but like I said, if the only thing done has been to change the pads & everything else checks out OK, going for a gentle ryde seems to be high on the list of things to do that just might work! So if you haven't done that yet, maybe you should give it a go?!? If you have, then hopefully this might help someone else! :thumbup:


yes ride for a few days thru the mountains
 
Try this first before you take it to a dealer:

The code may have occurred after the brake caliper was removed and reinstalled, then the key was on when the brake was applied. This will cause a low pressure code. Always pump the brakes up hard after a brake job before turning the key on.

Sequence to try:
turn key on
press down on brake pedal as far as possible. you should hear 2 clicks.
hold brake pedal down firmly
turn key off and wait at least 30 seconds
turn key on and code should be cleared.

This is out of the repair manual. But it does not state whether or not to hold the pedal down while the key is off and waiting 30 seconds. I would assume you can release the brake after the key is turned off.

didnt do a brake job. Just came on one day.
 
I told him the brakes need to be flushed and that requires BUDS. Then while in BUDS, clear the code. Job done. Its required every 2 years.

Because doing the job correctly costs money because he has to pay someone that has the tools to do the job. The diagnoses has been given . He just refuses to deal with it.
 
I told him the brakes need to be flushed and that requires BUDS. Then while in BUDS, clear the code. Job done. Its required every 2 years.

Because doing the job correctly costs money because he has to pay someone that has the tools to do the job. The diagnoses has been given . He just refuses to deal with it.

If you have to pay to clear codes every 2 years then that’s bogus. Glad my Yamaha R1 isn’t like that
 
If you have to pay to clear codes every 2 years then that’s bogus. Glad my Yamaha R1 isn’t like that


You own the darn spyder, if you don't want to pay what it costs to get it fixed then sell it & use your R1. You've been told how to get it fixed properly by an expert. Either do it or quit whining.
 
If you have to pay to clear codes every 2 years then that’s bogus. Glad my Yamaha R1 isn’t like that

No, the system requires BUDS to do a proper flush and that is required every 2 years.

You only have to clear the code because the service was not done and now the contaminated fluid has set a fault code.

I was just explaining you need BUDS to do the flush, resetting the code while in there does not take any more time. You either buy the tools to work on the bike or pay someone that has bought the tools. Bike maintenance is not free. Other bikes and some cars with ABS systems have similar requirements for flushing.
 
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