Brake Failure Code 1282 on 08 GS, need advice

[Spyder Monkey]

I have a 2008 GS with 22,000 miles on it. It is showing a brake failure code 1282 on it just like in these threads:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?38904-Code-1282-Brake-Failure&highlight=1282
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?24354-Error-C-1282&highlight=1282

I have extended warranty until 2013. Although I have only had the bike since Memorial Day weekend this year, I got the full service history printed out by the dealer that has done all the service, Wild West Honda in Katy, TX.

The bike has been worked on twice for a brake failure code on. Once in October 2010 and it was not under warranty. There were no details listed about what error code was showing but they replaced two slip joints and charged the previous owner $200 for parts and labor.

The second time it was worked on was May of 2011 and they replaced the master cylinder under a warranty claim.

Also the rear pads were replaced in October of 2011 and the brake system was flushed then.

The brake system does not seem spongey. I checked the fluid levels and they are topped off and the fluid looks clean and clear. There are no signs of any fluid leaks I can see anywhere under the vehicle.

So I spoke to the dealer on the phone and they said it is probably a warranty item but they will have to diagnose it. If it is warranty, I pay $50 and they cover the rest. If it is not warranty, I owe them $85 for a diagnostic fee.

So the dealer is close to an hour away and they would need to keep it for a few days.

Should I go ahead and bleed the system myself? I have no reason to believe that air got into the system. I did not open the system or mess with it. But if I don't bleed it myself and it turns out to be an air bubble, I will have wasted a lot of time and effort for a simple job I could do myself:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?15748-Yes-You-Can-Brake-Fluid-Replacement.

Is there any way that you guys know of to rule out air in the system before I go through all the logistical headache of getting the bike to and from a shop an hour away?

Any other advice appreciated,
David

 

[NancysToy]

I doubt it is air in the system. In order to get low system pressure, you would have to have quite a bit of air...enough to make the pedal spongy, IMO. The only way to check for air is to bleed the system. More commonly, this would be due to a leak. Does your fluid level drop? If so, you'll have to track the leak down. It could also be due to an internal leak, usually withing the master cylinder, where fluid bypasses the piston and returns to the reservoir. One other possibility, which the dealer should have been able to quickly rule out with BUDS. Riding the brake pedal lightly can cause this fault. The computer sees the brake switch on, and no brake pressure. A brake switch out of adjustment (or faulty) can cause the same thing. The dealer can check the brake pressure on BUDS, and see if it is up to spec. If not, the system will need attention. If so, the problem lies elsewhere.

 

[Spyder Monkey]

I doubt it is air in the system. In order to get low system pressure, you would have to have quite a bit of air...enough to make the pedal spongy, IMO. The only way to check for air is to bleed the system. More commonly, this would be due to a leak. Does your fluid level drop? If so, you'll have to track the leak down. It could also be due to an internal leak, usually withing the master cylinder, where fluid bypasses the piston and returns to the reservoir. One other possibility, which the dealer should have been able to quickly rule out with BUDS. Riding the brake pedal lightly can cause this fault. The computer sees the brake switch on, and no brake pressure. A brake switch out of adjustment (or faulty) can cause the same thing. The dealer can check the brake pressure on BUDS, and see if it is up to spec. If not, the system will need attention. If so, the problem lies elsewhere.

No sign of a leak at all under the vehicle and the reservoirs were both at the "max" mark. So if I don't have air and I don't have a leak, then I either have no problem or I have a faulty sensor. I went ahead and took it to the dealer, I don't have the tools yet to work on it here but I will start acquiring them. I hate the inconvenience of dragging it to the dealer to find out what is wrong.

David

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

THIRD, FOURTH OR FIFTH POSSIBILITY

Then again there is the possibility that there is nothing wrong with the brakes ......other than the computer thinking and telling you there is....I know that may sound illogical.....But that's how my computer's work....as soon as the :ani29: gets to 5 or 6 bars the dash lights up like a Christmas tree....the computer says all systems are failing .....Buuuuuut everything works OK.....except the messaging from the computer.......take all this for what you want......I have given up being concerned about the messages, as long as it's running that's what count's......Mike

 

[Spyder Monkey]

So I just got off the phone with the dealer, and they are replacing both front calipers under warranty. Don't know if I should be annoyed at such a big failure or if I should be happy at a full brake system overhaul for free.

Warranty is like a fire extinguisher, having it when you need it is better than not but needing it in the first place kinda sucks.

David

 

[NancysToy]

Glad you got it looked at right away, and glad it is all being taken care of. Being on the extended warranty makes it less painful, too. :thumbup:

 

[Camdenlake]

Always nice to see the end results of issues. Glad to hear the warranty kicked in. Wouldnt worry about a couple calipers could have sat at some point pherhaps:dontknow:

Josh

 

[Spyder Monkey]

I gotta vent about my dealer...

I have only been a Spyder Ryder since Memorial day weekend so this was my first interaction with the dealer. I already am avoiding the closest Spyder dealer because I have seen too many horror stories with that one.

I called them a week ago Saturday and discussed my symptoms. They said if I brought it in, they would diagnose it. If it was covered under warranty it would be a $50 deductible. If not, it would be an $85 diagnostic fee.

So I drop the bike off on a Saturday and they are swamped so I leave them alone until they re-open on Tuesday. I call them Tuesday afternoon to see if they have any news and they say "yeah, the parts are on order". I ask "What parts?". At that time they told me that it was covered by warranty and I needed two new calipers.

So I asked them would the new calipers come with pads or would they pull my old pads. They said they would pull my old pads and re-use them on my new calipers. I told them I would gladly pay for new pads since they were already in there.

So they say Friday that the bike will be ready Saturday. When I go to pick it up, the bill initially is over $200. When I ask to explain they tell me:
$50 deductible for replacing calipers
$50 deductible for replacing master cylinder (which was the first time they even mentioned replacing the master cylinder)
$30 for pads
.8 hours for replacing pads!!!

I hate arguing with them for my very first transaction but that was crap! I explained that it would have been more effort (and covered by warranty) to pull the old pads than just to open the package on the new pads. Plus I was more than a little annoyed by two deductibles for what I considered (and was told) was one job. After much bickering I paid the double deductible but not the pad labor and we both left irritated.

Am I being a jerk?

David

 

[wyliec]

So they say Friday that the bike will be ready Saturday. When I go to pick it up, the bill initially is over $200. When I ask to explain they tell me:
$50 deductible for replacing calipers
$50 deductible for replacing master cylinder (which was the first time they even mentioned replacing the master cylinder)
$30 for pads
.8 hours for replacing pads!!!

I hate arguing with them for my very first transaction but that was crap! I explained that it would have been more effort (and covered by warranty) to pull the old pads than just to open the package on the new pads. Plus I was more than a little annoyed by two deductibles for what I considered (and was told) was one job. After much bickering I paid the double deductible but not the pad labor and we both left irritated.

Am I being a jerk?

David

I have the BEST and it's $50 per incident, which means you should only have been charged 1 deductible.

Here is the exact wording from the BEST brochure:

"You only have to pay the first $50 of the total cost of covered components during each repair visit."

I'm assuming you have the BRP BEST warranty?

 

[Spyder Monkey]

And the drama continues...

So I found the "BEST Warranty" brochure on the BRP website that states the $50 per incident. And I called the shop to try to point that out to them, but it was a weird phone call.

The shop manager, Don, picked up. I had not talked to him yet, apparently he had been on vacation.

He was very professional and was more concerned with discussing how the problem was diagnosed and was not sure that they had found the root of the problem. When I tried to discuss the $50 extra deductible, he said that they will take care of that if necessary. But he was so intent on making sure the problem was addressed I could barely get a word in edgewise.

I decided to wait and see with the $50 deductible, the guy said he just got back from vacation and needed a few days to get caught up.

But my opinion of Wild West Honda in Katy Service has definitely gone up a notch.

We will see how this goes.