Thanx everybody! I tried disconnecting the battery thing 2000 miles ago before taking it in..All kinds of problems..Started shifting all by itself lights flashing..took it in replaced battery, brakes. clear codes ect all for the original brake failure warning..like I said maybe I've have lemon but this bike is driving me nukin futz!!
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Brake Failure and again again!
- Thread starter wilpir
- Start date
Which dealer? It does make a difference!
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I've had a brake failure message several times..I've reset it myself several times after numerous attempts! I've also taken it in to the dealer twice in 2 yrs... 1st time they did a flush, new pads, reset, ect at a cost of almost $1000! 2nd time they just reset - cost... $275! This time, I've been trying for over a month and it wont reset... I'm at my wits end! Is there another trick or something to do before I trade it in (2012 RT Limited only 10000 miles, 2000 since the brake job) on a Vanderhall! Thanx for any helpopcorn:
Did you buy it from the dealer or what?
Grandpot
Active member
This works on a 2011RTS. Not sure about a 2012.
Brake Warning Reset Procedure
If you do not have any codes, but still have a brake warning, it is possible the low pressure switch has been activated. There are three switches in the brake circuit. 1. Brake light switch, 2. Hydraulic pressure switch, and 3. Low pressure switch (this is really a limit switch that just senses the pedal has traveled too far). This can be reset by the following procedure.
After a low pressure switch (LPS) problem has
been solved, it is necessary to clear the occurred
fault in the VCM as follows:
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Wait 30 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch ON.
4. Press the brake pedal, you should hear two clicks.
NOTE: The 1st click will come from the brake light
switch. Continue to strongly press the brake pedal to hear
a 2nd click. This one will come from the low pressure
switch. You may not hear the click, just push the pedal real hard.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF.
6. Wait 30 seconds.
7. Turn ignition switch ON.
8. Validate fault was cleared.
What caused the condition in the first place? This has happened to me a couple of times. When the parking brake is ON and your foot is on the brake pedal, then you release the parking brake, you will feel the brake pedal go down an additional amount. If it goes down far enough to activate the 3rd switch, that is when you get the brake failure message. Now I'm just careful of the pressure I put on the brake pedal when I release the parking brake. No more problems.
Brake Warning Reset Procedure
If you do not have any codes, but still have a brake warning, it is possible the low pressure switch has been activated. There are three switches in the brake circuit. 1. Brake light switch, 2. Hydraulic pressure switch, and 3. Low pressure switch (this is really a limit switch that just senses the pedal has traveled too far). This can be reset by the following procedure.
After a low pressure switch (LPS) problem has
been solved, it is necessary to clear the occurred
fault in the VCM as follows:
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Wait 30 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch ON.
4. Press the brake pedal, you should hear two clicks.
NOTE: The 1st click will come from the brake light
switch. Continue to strongly press the brake pedal to hear
a 2nd click. This one will come from the low pressure
switch. You may not hear the click, just push the pedal real hard.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF.
6. Wait 30 seconds.
7. Turn ignition switch ON.
8. Validate fault was cleared.
What caused the condition in the first place? This has happened to me a couple of times. When the parking brake is ON and your foot is on the brake pedal, then you release the parking brake, you will feel the brake pedal go down an additional amount. If it goes down far enough to activate the 3rd switch, that is when you get the brake failure message. Now I'm just careful of the pressure I put on the brake pedal when I release the parking brake. No more problems.
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canamjhb
Well-known member
There are only 2 dealerships in this area that I know about. Both have more than one store. Ride Now and Nash Motorsports. I have delt with them both. Never had a good experience with Ride Now, not ONE! Nash was a bit better. If it were me, I'd arrange to have the bike hauled to Sierra Cycles in Sierra Vista. Probably 175 miles but worth it. IMHO..... Jim
That's what I was thinking.
I've done everything suggested here - tried reset every day for over a month, bled brakes, ect... didnt work... Yes, contacted Ride Now and just contacted Nash yesterday... I've heard good things about Sierra, but again not an option... If I still had my Goldwing I'd have 100 choices for repair! The BUDS system is only available to a handfull of dealers around here... It WILL be for sale very quickly as soon as its sorted out!
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BajaRon
Well-known member
So, it isn't a hanging caliper piston...
Might be but beyond my scope...
What is the history of this bike? Did you buy it from an individual or a dealer?
BajaRon
Well-known member
If you can remove the calipers, easily done, then it is very do-able. Not rocket science. A lot less expensive and much quicker than going to a dealership.
safecracker
Active member
On the 2010 to 2012 models, the oil low switches are not supervised. you can just unplug the connector under the brake fluid tank. On 2013 and up the circuit is supervised. Shawn Smoak had a video on it awhile back. I know this is not the problem you are having. Bruce
inspectsir
Member
This happens with our (2) 2014 bikes also. Just need a sip of fluid.
Did that, first thing... didn't reset! I have an appointment for service... still 3 more weeks away and they said backlog is 2 weeks beyond that! So I'll be without the Spyder for over 3 months! Like I said, I looked at a Vanderhall and now a Slingshot..Those dealers are out of their minds! I've asked/visited no less than 15 Vanderhall and Slingshot dealers for a price and not one EVER gave me one! They made excuse after excuse but NONE gave me a price! I dont get it! Vanderhalls are there on the showroom floor for the buying, but they wont give me a price or take my cash! Slingshot dealers (ALL of them) dont have any in stock and the wait is 2 to 6 months! But still no Price from any of them! Slingshot guys even wanted me to give them a non refundable deposit on one if it ever came in and then they would give me a price after! AHHH NOOOO!!! Very frustrating on all 3 brands!!!
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BertRemington
New member
Try harder:
https://www.cycletrader.com/Slingsh...make=Slingshot|765326882&zip=92152&radius=any
https://www.cycletrader.com/motorcycles-for-sale?keyword=vanderhall&zip=92152&radius=any
I considered a Slingshot before the Spyder but the side-by-side was too wide for my taste although there was much to like about the machine mechanically and styling.
Vanderhall not so much.
https://www.cycletrader.com/Slingsh...make=Slingshot|765326882&zip=92152&radius=any
https://www.cycletrader.com/motorcycles-for-sale?keyword=vanderhall&zip=92152&radius=any
I considered a Slingshot before the Spyder but the side-by-side was too wide for my taste although there was much to like about the machine mechanically and styling.
Vanderhall not so much.
Yep contacted several Dealers off of Cycle trader for a Slingshot and A Vanderhall..not one ever contacted me back! even called a few and nothing! The slingshot dealers around here and neighboring states want $5000 Delivery/Prep fee on a $22000 model just insane!
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