Wilpir. Even though you don’t have the code for low fluid level, yes, the floats should float. Top off both reservoir chambers. They will look very full. That’s expected. Make sure the floats work properly.
C1282 - there are 2 micro switches operated by the brake pedal linkage. As you depress the pedal under braking, the first one to actuate is the Brake Light Switch (BLS). What it does is self-explanatory. As you depress the pedal harder, it travels further. Under moderate to heavy braking, the pedal will travel far enough to actuate the second micro switch. The official name of that switch is the Low Pressure Switch (LPS). (Not the low pedal switch, so yes Ron, you did see it here) It is normal and expected for that switch to actuate under those conditions. Despite the name, that switch measures pedal travel. When the LPS actuates, it triggers the ECM to look at actual real live brake system pressure. That pressure sensor is in the VCM. If the actual pressure has not risen above a minimum value set point by the time the LPS actuates, then C1282 code is set. The problem of course is that C1282 locks in and requires you to fix something before you can clear it.
What to do about it - Address things that can cause the brake pressure to not rise high enough as the pedal is depressed. Old brake fluid or air in the system is most common. Bleed the system. If you are going to do it yourself, use Speedbleeders. You may need to bleed the VCM even though it’s a pain to get to. Keep in mind that if you DO actually have an air problem, the “by the book” method to bleed the system is by using BUDS in order to cycle the ABS valves during the process. And also a Brake Pressure Adaptation if necessary. You may or may not be successful in removing any trapped air bubble without BUDS. Give it a shot yourself or take it in.
To be clear, you don’t need BUDS if all you’ll need to do is flush out the old fluid. But any air trapped in the ABS unit may or may not be flushed out without it. And when you're all through, you'll still need to go through the reset process to clear the code. Be sure that you are standing on the pedal HARD, and keep standing on it well after you turn off the key until the display shuts down.
Other causes are leaks, excessively worn brake pads, and worst case scenario, a failing master cylinder or caliper. Did they replace ALL pads or just the fronts? Any leaks or weeping bleed fittings? Check it all.
Or - unless you were joking, if you want to get out from under these maintenance issues with a 10 year old machine, trade it in. Who knows, you might get an offer from somebody on here. Good Luck.
opcorn:
