Bouncing Fuel needle on 2011 Spyder RT

[jimbombeck]

I have a 2011 Spyder Rt Limited and my fuel needle bounces alot. Suggestions?

 

[ARtraveler]

A common situation for 2010 and 2011 Spyders. Many have disconnected the analog fuel gauges and went to the digital ones that are built into the machine.

Note: to make this fix work, you need to disconnect both the fuel and temperature gauges. The result is that the analog gauges will go dead and your display will have both the temperatures and fuel levels shown in bars.

The disconnect is just remove the front instrument panel and disconnect the wires to the gauges.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have a 2011 Spyder Rt Limited and my fuel needle bounces alot. Suggestions?

If you dis-connect it ..... the gauge will become a bar graph shown on the instrument cluster ..... most folks here prefer that ..... Mike hyea:

 

[Grandpot]

If you disconnect both gauges as stated above, you can replace the gauges with two other devices, like a clock and a 12V accessory socket or USB socket.

 

[Mikey]

Disconnected mine and got two blanks to go into the holes from BRP, I like the digital gauge better, works for me!:2thumbs:

 

[Arion]

Disconnected the analogs on both our RTs and replaced them with a voltmeter on the right and a dual USB port on the left. Much nicer and the digital gauges are more accurate as others have said.

 

[jimbombeck]

so where exactly do the digital gauges show up on the bike?

 

[Mikey]

It will be on both sides of your display screen!! One on one side, one on the other, you'll see!

 

[Trbayth]

so where exactly do the digital gauges show up on the bike?

They show up as vertical bar graphs on the left and right of the digital speedometer. Fuel on the right, temperature on the left.

 

[lt538]

I disconnected both gauges. Both are displayed digitally. However, the temp gauge shows bars. The fuel gauge is not working and the "fuel pump" light is displayed. Any suggestions?

 

[Mikey]

With out being there, you may have a bad sending unit in the tank! Any one else???:dontknow:

 

[ARtraveler]

I disconnected both gauges. Both are displayed digitally. However, the temp gauge shows bars. The fuel gauge is not working and the "fuel pump" light is displayed. Any suggestions?

That is a new glitch for me. So far, the fix has worked for everyone that has done it. Sounds like "other" problems. Did you try re-booting by using the start-up procedure again? It would be nice if it worked the "second or third" try. Fingers crossed for you.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I disconnected both gauges. Both are displayed digitally. However, the temp gauge shows bars. The fuel gauge is not working and the "fuel pump" light is displayed. Any suggestions?

How much gas is in the tank?

 

[bronzeflex42]

This is the main thing i used to hate on my Spyder..

 

[lt538]

It has 11miles since I filled up.
The needle would bounce slightly when I filled up. Then it would bounce more as the miles increased.
The "gas pump" light is intermittent.

 

[lt538]

I did restart twice. No change

 

[MONK]

Just out of curiousity (and I'm guessing the answer is "yes"), does this work for all pre-'18 F3s (with the full gauge package). Mr. traveler mentioned 2010 and 2011. I plan on buying a 2018 or newer F3 so it won't matter but would be good info to have if I found a screaming deal on a '16 or '17, I guess.

 

[ARtraveler]

Just out of curiousity (and I'm guessing the answer is "yes"), does this work for all pre-'18 F3s (with the full gauge package). Mr. traveler mentioned 2010 and 2011. I plan on buying a 2018 or newer F3 so it won't matter but would be good info to have if I found a screaming deal on a '16 or '17, I guess.

My actual knowledge is with the RT 2010 and 2011's. I did the changeover successfully on both. Not needed on my 2014 RT...where the analog gauges are rock solid.

I am new to the F3 as of December 2019. I am happy with the gauges as they are. Hopefully, an F3 user can give you a better answer to your question. :bbq:

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

It has 11miles since I filled up.
The needle would bounce slightly when I filled up. Then it would bounce more as the miles increased.
The "gas pump" light is intermittent.

It is indeed strange. As long as ALL of the wires were disconnected from BOTH of the gauges and you are getting this issue, I suppose if it was me, I would put it back the way it was and see if the gas gauge returned to indicating the correct level when not moving. That would narrow it down to being a sender problem or not. In model year 2012, a new gauge was developed that had some mechanical dampening in the meter movement. You'd still get swings in the gauge during braking and maneuvering, but not as severe as earlier years. After all, the level in the tank is, in fact, sloshing around. There were still complaints about their accuracy at the low end. The gas gauge is not something to stare at anyway. Using the trip odometer, stop about every 120 miles-ish. The Low Fuel light - what you're calling the gas pump light - is independent of the gauge and is usually spot on.

I recall that you had some other electrical issue with a brake code. What's up with that, although I"m not making any connection between the two as of yet.

 

[lt538]

Tried suggestions, I can ride about 10 miles when it goes into limp home mode and flashes spyder light. Check engine light stays on. Next trip is on a trailer to the dealer.