• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Boiling fuel, hot legs & feet, melted boot glue & passive limp home modes

I don't know if race-car aero packages would be workable; you need ground clearance in the real World...
maybe something as simple, as some sort of "scoop" to direct more air around the converter... could something be hung off of that to channel some air up to it? :dontknow:
Of course; it'd need to be tucked up enough so as not to get crushed on every speed bump or pothole that is encountered... :shocked:
 
Race car aero is also designed to keep the car gripping the road. They literally get sucked to the pavement at speeds. our goal is to get air through the unit.
 
I have fog lights on the ST

However, reducing the pressure by removing the cap could result in boiling... what does one do when you need gas? the cap has to come off to keep traveling
When you remove the cap, and it's boiling, what does it do? Do you just hear it? smell it? see it?

Just curious. I've only ever heard it sizzling away and never thought much of it. Never smelled anything or saw anything spurt out... I just dump cold gasoline on top of it and it shuts up.

I did notice the gas cap was hotter than I'd ever noticed on my 2009 GS. I mean really hot, like you described. But only when I wasn't wearing gloves. Maybe other people aren't noticing because they open it before they take their gloves off?

My plans to solve this are wrap or coat the pipes (all of them) and possibly remove the cat (replace with a test pipe or one from http://www.spyder1attitude.com/cat-bypass.html)

And possibly bitch at BRP if they ever answer my call without being on hold for over an hour. I don't have that kind of time to wait.
 
Downforce would create the negative pressure needed to draw air from the underside, scoops on the A-arm would have a ram air effect to create a positive pressure in the engine compartment. Thinking the net effect would be airflow from positive to negative pressure, thereby removing heat.

Just thinking out loud. I'm not an aerodynamicist, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night. ;)
 
Downforce would create the negative pressure needed to draw air from the underside, scoops on the A-arm would have a ram air effect to create a positive pressure in the engine compartment. Thinking the net effect would be airflow from positive to negative pressure, thereby removing heat.

Just thinking out loud. I'm not an aerodynamicist, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night. ;)

Doing anything to get air routed to the engine compartment would take a redesign. Currently, air is routed through the radiator and the oil cooler, not through the engine compartment in any quantity.
 
Many super bikes have an intake port beneath the headlight. While our configuration makes this difficult, it's not far fetched to place intake ports on the RT. Perhaps both sides of the nose, mid body and of the same size as the RS fog light inserts. Eliminate the coffin and widen (gasp) or gap out the sides beside the tank to allow passage. I agree, eliminate the metal tank. Switch to a composite or racing gel type tank.

I think our spyders just went up another 2 grand and lost frunk space.... Lol
 
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If you squint at the Spyder or look at it without glasses, our configuration is much like the front end of a formula one racer. In the off season I should crawl under the Spyder and see if there's a way to install some race car styled diffusers to manage the negative pressure. I think maybe the bumpskid / under tray could be modified it could draw air out.
diffuser_underbody.gif


Hmm.. some winglets on the A-arms, other aero bits... maybe a big sprint car wing! :yikes:

Are there any computational fluid dynamicists in the house? ;)



Maybe a helmet mounted Sprint Car wing I think that would be awesome
 
The ST's seem to have a big air intake under the headlights already. (mine's still in the shop with a melted master cylinder or I'd take pictures)

That appears to be true .. according to the press photos.
can-am-zm-3940e18.jpg


So the question is.. is that a high pressure spot or a low pressure spot?
 
The ST's seem to have a big air intake under the headlights already. (mine's still in the shop with a melted master cylinder or I'd take pictures)

exactly what melted on your master cylinder...Mark is not home...where is it located
 
I'll do some 'simple things 1st....1.Wrap the pipes to keep a large portion of that radiant heat out of the engine compartment.... made a big difference on FB's 09 RS....2.Place a heat shield on the fuel tank to reflect radiated heat away from the tank. Those two actions may reduce the heat in the effected areas enough to solve the problem. The engine is water cooled, and has not overheated. but the heat from the engine and the more extreme from the pipes may be making more of a heat load than can be vented from the engine bay. I really think a wrapped pipe system will make a big difference getting the heat out the back. Will know more this weekend...hg
 
As I posted earlier in this thread.. The heat is causing issues but I have sat here and thought about it.... My Boss Hoss 350CI Chevy Trike was WAAAAAAAAAY hotter in the summer in bumper to bumper traffic. I got caught in a traffic jamb on the interstate coming into Chattanooga one time going to the Trail of Tears ride. It was so hot that my wife got throw up sick. The fan would come on and blow what felt like 1000 degree air on us.


I have boiled the gas in the carburetor several times. Usually it happens when you shut it off to go into a store and then come back out and try to restart it.

yqevaga8.jpg


hutyqa7u.jpg
 
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As I posted earlier in this thread.. The heat is causing issues but I have sat here and thought about it.... My Boss Hoss 350CI Chevy Trike was WAAAAAAAAAY hotter in the summer in bumper to bumper traffic. I got caught in a traffic jamb on the interstate coming into Chattanooga one time going to the Trail of Tears ride. It was so hot that my wife got throw up sick. The fan would come on and blow what felt like 1000 degree air on us.


I have boiled the gas in the carburetor several times. Usually it happens when you shut it off to go into a store and then come back out and try to restart it.

yqevaga8.jpg


hutyqa7u.jpg
Man...I can imagine. Look at the size of the radiator and fan!
 
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