Blowing fuses Help!

[Omcge]

Just as I turned into my drive 1/2 mile from home everything went dead except the engine.:banghead:
It was still running but no clutch (2014 RTS Limited SE6) and had a blank screen. After towing it home
I found Fuse (Wake up Tcm, DPS/Cluster) blown. I replaced and it blows again after a minute or so.
I'm in the process of checking all connections, battery and connections are good.
Anybody have any suggestions.

Even though it is under warrantee I hate to take it to the Dealer and let it
set for 3 weeks and still may not be fixed. Thanks for any Help.

Larry

 

[kbwitt]

repair dealer

I would bring any electrical problem to a certified can am dealer. If he has it that long and does not have it fixed . I would call can amand report it. Why not get the problem corrected right free.

Sorry to hear about your problem hope it gets corrected fast
Good luck
Kenn

 

[iSpyder]

Any Mods?

Do you have any mods on your bike (like adding a 12v port or other)?

Do you have trailer hitch installed?

EDIT: actually just saw your signature line. My guess one of the electrical mods is the culprit. Maybe bare wire somewhere?? My guess would be something related to the mirror or turn signal mods...

EDIT #2: I really can read...eventually...
I see your electrical mods seem to be on the 2013. Do you have any electrical mods on the 2014?

 

[Omcge]

Do you have any mods on your bike (like adding a 12v port or other)?

Do you have trailer hitch installed?

EDIT: actually just saw your signature line. My guess one of the electrical mods is the culprit. Maybe bare wire somewhere?? My guess would be something related to the mirror or turn signal mods...

EDIT #2: I really can read...eventually...
I see your electrical mods seem to be on the 2013. Do you have any electrical mods on the 2014?

The only mods are led turn signal indicators. It blew a couple of times just sitting and idling.


Thanks

 

[finless]

Unplug the DPS and see if it still blows.

Bob

 

[jtoro1]

The only mods are led turn signal indicators. It blew a couple of times just sitting and idling.


Thanks

Unplug your led turn signals indicators

 

[bmccaffrey]

That's why i keep things simple and stay away from the electrical mods.

 

[bruiser]

Check the relay for that fuse. If the relay is shorting it will cause the fuse to blow. If it blows just idling without any other inputs I would suspect a relay or loose wire to the relay.

 

[Omcge]

just an update

I had all plastic and frunk off, unplugged all led's, swapped all relays, checked all connections . The display came on, started so I took it out for a short ride.
It ran about 5 minutes and I was about 3/4 of a mile from home, when the fuse blew again. I towed it home and now it will blow the same fuse F7 on the left bank every time you turn the key on. I called my closest dealer and he was out 4 weeks for an appointment. I took it to another dealer that had about a 2 week waiting list. I figured since it is dead now maybe they can trace it down if they know what they are doing and maybe under warrantee.

Thanks for all the responses.
Larry

 

[billybovine]

Let us know what they find.

 

[Omcge]

An Update on my Problem blowing fuses

I had all plastic and frunk off, unplugged all led's, swapped all relays, checked all connections . The display came on, started so I took it out for a short ride.
It ran about 5 minutes and I was about 3/4 of a mile from home, when the fuse blew again. I towed it home and now it will blow the same fuse F7 on the left bank every time you turn the key on. I called my closest dealer and he was out 4 weeks for an appointment. I took it to another dealer that had about a 2 week waiting list. I figured since it is dead now maybe they can trace it down if they know what they are doing and maybe under warrantee.

Thanks for all the responses.
Larry

The Spyder has been shop 3 weeks. The service rep says that they can't find the problem and they have started a case with BRP. They want to blame it on the added leds such as the turn signals and added brake bar even though they had been unplugged. They say that the Harness is super sensitive to added resistances. I understand that but when they have all been disconnected ,I can't see where they can be a problem. This is on the 2014. :banghead:

 

[Bob Denman]

If they're trying to blame this on an unplugged light; I'd be nervous! :shocked:

 

[ARtraveler]

If they're trying to blame this on an unplugged light; I'd be nervous! :shocked:

Don't the 2014's have increased capacity when it comes to electrical power???

 

[Marker]

I have Custom Dynamic LED lights on my 2015 RT SE6 and no problems such as you describe. If the add on LED lights are unplugged and fuses are still blowing then my guess would be its in the OEM spyder wiring harness somewhere.

 

[pitzerwm]

The Spyder has been shop 3 weeks. The service rep says that they can't find the problem and they have started a case with BRP. They want to blame it on the added leds such as the turn signals and added brake bar even though they had been unplugged. They say that the Harness is super sensitive to added resistances. I understand that but when they have all been disconnected ,I can't see where they can be a problem. This is on the 2014. :banghead:

Blame anything you can but yourself BRP, you can't fix stupid.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

JUST MAYBE A POSSIBILITY

I have a lot of LED's with no issue's...........And I know you said .....After you dis-connected your LED's the FUSE was still blowing..... Buuuuut, the problem may have been caused while you were adding the LED's to the OEM wiring............And that problem still exists ...soooooooooo whether your LED's are connected or not won't matter..........You may want to check all the connections you made to see if there is a connection causing a SHORT ................jmho.........Mike :thumbup:

 

[Omcge]

Update @ 5 weeks in shop

Just an up date ,been in shop 5 wk Tuesday. Since the service rep won't return phone calls, I called every day last week and they don't answer just leave name and they will call back, I went to dealer yesterday to see what's going on.

The service manager says that they have checked everything that BRP has advised to and it's still shorted and looks like the main harness. He shakes his head and acts like they can't or doesn't want to go any farther.

Anyone know how hard to change out Harness?

Anyone have a good # for BRP or contact other the one on the main web site. 888 2729222

I told the service mgr that this is costing me a Hell of a lot of money since I had to go out and buy my wife a new Slingshot to have
something to ride. He starts asking a lot of questions about it. They also have Heat problems because the muffler is directly in front of the passenger floor board and a 150 deg + floorboard on a 90 deg day here in Texas isn't going to work. I'm in the process of doing an outside rear exhaust and insulating the engine compartment.

Thanks

 

[SpyderAnn01]

You could try this number tel.819.566.3366. It probably will take you to the same menu as the 800 number though. Have you tried sending an email?

 

[pitzerwm]

I think its time to talk with a lawyer, if nothing else to write them a letter (the dealer).

 

[AMTJIM]

Some dealers only work exactly in the allowed time frame preset to a task BRP assigns for trouble shooting, they sometimes have to allow for restoring removed parts to normal. That eats alot of time and doesn't allow for improvisational visual inspection. You may just simply have a friction point between wire and frame, I'm a little shocked they haven't tried ringing to ground or use a fox and hound.