Best Power Source for a 3.5 Amp Inline Blower - Suggestions?

[Dan McNally]

To help resolve the heat issues under the tupperware on my 2013 RT Limited, I plane to install a ducted vent fan http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Turbo-3000 - it is 12 volt, and uses up to 3.5 amps. I have never messed with the wiring on a Spyder so am concerned I may hose something up. I was thinking of running a connection to the 12V power source in the trunk if I can't find another appropriate source. Any suggestions as to a better source for power?

 

[Atonic]

Why not use the battery terminals and an inline fuse?

 

[srwilli]

I would suggest that you install a power block under the seat. For unswitched it is connected directly to the battery, and for switched I tapped into the passenger grip heater wiring. Purchased my block from the below website.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/3_Circuit/3_circuit.html

 

[3 Wheel Addict]

Those bilge blowers are not designed for continuous operation. Find a place to mount a switch and run it while stopped, like at a light or when your not moving. I'm going to remove my fog lights and put the front vents back in and maybe duct them to the top of the Tupperware to push the heat out while moving. Might not do a thing but somebody has to try something. I have been checking my gas cap with a thermal temp gun and so far i'm recording temps right at 150 degrees.

 

[NancysToy]

Another vote for an auxiliary power block. It is best to do these things right. If you are uncomfortable installing one, perhaps you can solicit the help of a friend or pay a dealer to do it. I use the Eastern Beaver 3CS, but there are several other good choices, including some from SpyderLovers sponsors.

 

[jcthorne]

I was doing a good bit of work on my RT today and had all the panels off along with the frunk. Took a long look at the designed in air flow. Most of the incoming air is from the oil cooler front vent on the left. the Radiator exhaust goes out the side directly. Also the two vents at the top are exits, not intakes as the vent shields create a low pressure zone at those vents when underway. There are also a few scoops in the belly pans. Most of the air is exhausted out the rear toward the tire. Anyway. the one large opening is the oil cooler. There is no fan on it like the radiator so when standing still there is nearly no air movement under the Tupperware. Would it not make more sense to add an electric radiator fan to the oil cooler? Would help both the engine temps and move a good deal of air through the engine bay. It appears an 8" would fit like the ones used on car intercoolers and trans coolers.

 

[Magdave]

I was doing a good bit of work on my RT today and had all the panels off along with the frunk. Took a long look at the designed in air flow. Most of the incoming air is from the oil cooler front vent on the left. the Radiator exhaust goes out the side directly. Also the two vents at the top are exits, not intakes as the vent shields create a low pressure zone at those vents when underway. There are also a few scoops in the belly pans. Most of the air is exhausted out the rear toward the tire. Anyway. the one large opening is the oil cooler. There is no fan on it like the radiator so when standing still there is nearly no air movement under the Tupperware. Would it not make more sense to add an electric radiator fan to the oil cooler? Would help both the engine temps and move a good deal of air through the engine bay. It appears an 8" would fit like the ones used on car intercoolers and trans coolers.

Oil temps get pretty high just as much as coolant or more. Not sure that is a good idea pushing more heated air inside the Tupperware.

 

[jcthorne]

Oil temps get pretty high just as much as coolant or more. Not sure that is a good idea pushing more heated air inside the Tupperware.

The extreame heat under the Tupperware is from exhaust heat. FAR hotter than the 200 deg engine temp. Besides, with better air flow across the cooler, the discharge temps will never approach the oil temp. Any way, the air will be MUCH cooler than the heat source in the engine bay. Where do you think the air flow in most car engine bays comes from?

 

[Magdave]

The extreame heat under the Tupperware is from exhaust heat. FAR hotter than the 200 deg engine temp. Besides, with better air flow across the cooler, the discharge temps will never approach the oil temp. Any way, the air will be MUCH cooler than the heat source in the engine bay. Where do you think the air flow in most car engine bays comes from?

Not the oil cooler. Some people have drilled holes through the radiator swoop so instead of coming out the side it went inside. What do you think the results was ? INCREASED temps in the Tupperware. Only thing that might work is cold air being pushed inside period. Adding heated air will only help increase the temps. If heated air of ~200 deg+ would help don't you think the swoop would be gone? Why burn peoples feet if it would help cool the engine bay? I am not a rocket scientist but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.:roflblack:

 

[Dan McNally]

I appreciate all the great suggestions. :bowdown:And, as always, answers lead to more questions . . . On my 2013 RT, there are switches for the Parking Brake/Frunk Release, Grip Warmer, Rear Shock Adjustment, and Fog Lights. There are two to the left, two to the right, and what appears to be a place for a 5th switch, right in the middle. This would be an ideal place to mount a switch to power a ducted ventilation fan. Is anyone familiar with this? Is that a switch blank? If so, how do I remove it? Does it just pop out, or do I have to pull the whole assembly out? I assume this bank of switches is weather proof to some degree, or none of those switches would work in the rain. Is there an appropriate switch made to go there, that would fit nicely and maintain whatever weatherproofing is there? Thanks, again, for the great ideas. I suspect I'll install an auxiliary power block, just in case some other project needs power, in the future. There appears to be enough holes to find a way to get the wires run, without too much difficulty (yeah, I know . . . I just made it much harder just by saying that! :banghead

 

[jcthorne]

Not the oil cooler. Some people have drilled holes through the radiator swoop so instead of coming out the side it went inside. What do you think the results was ? INCREASED temps in the Tupperware. Only thing that might work is cold air being pushed inside period. Adding heated air will only help increase the temps. If heated air of ~200 deg+ would help don't you think the swoop would be gone? Why burn peoples feet if it would help cool the engine bay? I am not a rocket scientist but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.:roflblack:

I did not clearly state my response and will try again. The heat from the oil cooler is already going into the engine bay. A higher flow if air through it will not substantially increase the quantity of heat, but the discharge temp of the air will drop significantly as those same btus are distributed to many times more air (when stopped). Thus greatly cooling the engine bay. Engine and transmission oil coolers are often mounted in front of cooling system radiators using the same air flow due to this limited btu capacity. Sorry if I am having trouble explaining the reasoning to you but it is sound engineering. I did not stay at a holiday inn, thermal transfer engineering is what I do. (among others).

 

[Magdave]

I did not clearly state my response and will try again. The heat from the oil cooler is already going into the engine bay. A higher flow if air through it will not substantially increase the quantity of heat, but the discharge temp of the air will drop significantly as those same btus are distributed to many times more air (when stopped). Thus greatly cooling the engine bay. Engine and transmission oil coolers are often mounted in front of cooling system radiators using the same air flow due to this limited btu capacity. Sorry if I am having trouble explaining the reasoning to you but it is sound engineering. I did not stay at a holiday inn, thermal transfer engineering is what I do. (among others).

Let us know how it works for you :thumbup:

 

[nhoj]

Those bilge blowers are not designed for continuous operation.

We run our bilge blowers continuosly as long as the engines are running. Never had one fail in 36 years.

I'm going to remove my fog lights and put the front vents back in and maybe duct them to the top of the Tupperware to push the heat out while moving.

Good idea.

 

[Dan McNally]

We run our bilge blowers continuosly as long as the engines are running. Never had one fail in 36 years.
.

Which are you using?

 

[nhoj]

Which Bilge Blower

Which are you using?

Its been 17 years for this boat but they (4 of them) are the Seachoice like on this eBay page..
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/3-bilge-blower

 

[Rick11Flor]

the center connector slot

the center connector slot is not for a regular connection as the others, it is a round hole and yes you can just pull it off. here is what i recommend to install a http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=a9_sc_1?rh=i:aps,k:fuse+block&keywords=fuse+block&ie=UTF8&qid=1380431203 then install a relay https://www.google.com/search?q=fog...L-4GACQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=800&bih=418&dpr=1 this will help you get started.. once you decide where you are installing the fuse block, not to far install the relay.. the relay can be powered directly from a source (like the fog lights or the fan for the radiator) that would trigger the relay to power the fan, the actual power for the fan comes from the fuse block that comes from the battery directly.. :thumbup: