Belt tracking

[Fatcycledaddy]

Had to replace rear tore, now belt tracks a little farther out than before.
Does this look OK?

 

[Bob Denman]

Question:
Did you ride the bike straight-ahead for at least 30 feet, before taking the picture?

(The belts DO move around on the sprockets, and you need to let stabilize in their "comfy place", before starting to get worried about them. nojoke)

 

[vided]

That looks like mine.:thumbup::thumbup:

 

[Pampurrs]

That doesn't look right to me. It should be much closer to the flange.

Pam

 

[oldgoat]

Specs are 1mm - 5mm gap at the flange. ( 1/32" to 3/16")

 

[Fatcycledaddy]

Question:
Did you ride the bike straight-ahead for at least 30 feet, before taking the picture?

(The belts DO move around on the sprockets, and you need to let stabilize in their "comfy place", before starting to get worried about them. nojoke)

Bike was ridden about 85 miles after tire was changed, position has stayed the same.

 

[JayBros]

Listen to Pam and oldgoat; they're right. Check your Operator's Guide if you don't believe 'em.

 

[Fatcycledaddy]

Specs are 1mm - 5mm gap at the flange. ( 1/32" to 3/16")

I looked in the book and found a minimum distance, but nothing more. Where did you get the 3/16" from? I will put the caliper on it, but I am pretty close to that I bet.

 

[AY4B]

I discussed with Mike Brown who is a Rolo alignment specialist that did my Laser alignment party last week. He said he likes it a business card gap between the belt and the flange.

 

[AY4B]

Actually his exact words were that some people use a credit card as a gap reference. He likes it a little closer. You should be able to stick a business card in there and turn the wheel and it just falls out.

 

[spyderCodes]

I believe the critical value is the minimum distance between the belt and the flange.

 

[Cruzr Joe]

Looks a little too far out to me

Cruzr joe

 

[spyderCodes]

From the owner's manual

Drive Belt Alignment
The gap between the belt and the sprocket internal flange should be sum of "X" + "Y" = 3.25 mm ± 2.75 mm(.13 in ± .11 in).
If belt goes beyond the outside edge of sprocket, have the belt properly aligned by an authorized Can-Am roadster dealer as soon as possible.
NOTE: Belt can be in contact with ONLY ONE flange from ONLY ONE of the sprocket s at a time.

A is Gap Y

 

[AY4B]

OP
Whoever did your tire replacement did it the hard way. We all use the shock bolt removal method. That way you don't have to realign the belt. The belt will go back to where it was before.
Sorry for all the typos, I'm typing on my phone

 

[Gunner3773]

That belt looks pretty close to mine. Your belt is within factory specs. Since I adjusted my belt so that it rides in the center of the sprocket, similar to yours, I have had very little of the belt vibration/rumble when I ride around 74mph. In fact, when I recently had the tire changed by the dealer, I advised them not to move the belt and the service manager said that the belt was in factory spec so he would not adjust it and only adjust tension if needed.

Gunner

 

[Chupaca]

Agree...

From the picture it is way to far out. You should check after running forward when going backward belt may walk out that far....:thumbup:

 

[Bob Denman]

It seems to me (Based upon Roger's quote from the manual... :bowdown, that you're okay...
As long as it's not rubbing on one sprocket, and riding off of the other: they seem to call that good enough. :thumbup: dontknow: Mine is about a credit card's width from the rear sprocket flange...)

 

[cptjam]

Double check

Raise rear of bike. With bike in neutral, engine off, roll wheel forward 10 revolutions. Check belt position. Roll wheel backward 10 revolutions. Check belt position. The key issue is if the belt remains in the same place, the wheel is properly aligned. If it migrates, that is normal, so long as the migration is 3/16" or less. The belt should never be proud of the pulley (extending beyond the edge) or pressing so hard on the flange it wears.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

As Joe says. If it stays close when you run in reverse for a short distance then leave it where it's at. My local service tech says as long as the belt stays between the outer edge and the flange you're OK. The actual belt alignment spec as shown above is too complicated for us ordinary mortals to get too wound about it. Changing the alignment could be as simple as a 15 minute job, or as frustrating as a 5 hour job. Don't chance making it worse. It's not worth the effort and it's good as is.

Read this to find out what it's like when it does not go well! http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...Problem-amp-Question&highlight=belt+alignment