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Belt tensioner Roller failed, ruined my belt.
- Thread starter AY4B
- Start date
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
:agree::agree::agree: ………...Please share, it could be very important to other members here ….. not me tho, years ago I just decided lowering the belt tension considerably below spec was good enough for me …... Mike
hyea:
h0gr1der
New member
:agree::agree::agree: ………...Please share, it could be very important to other members here ….. not me tho, years ago I just decided lowering the belt tension considerably below spec was good enough for me …... Mike
I'm with BLUEKNIGHT911 on this. I had a good vibration dampener from a reputable source, but chose to lower my tension and live with the very small amount of vibration that only happens occasionally for this very reason. If I recall correctly, Spyderanne01 had exactly this kind of roller failure, which led me to the removal of mine. It sure killed all the vibrations, but the risk to that very expensive belt is also ever present.
I have removed the vibration dampers from both our RT & F3-S. Originally I had the front & rear sprockets [pulleys] belt clearance on both machines absolutely perfect & almost no vibration. I decided to fit the dampers to try & eliminate the little vibs I had. I've spent untold hours moving the dampers on both bikes so that the rollers were precisely at right angles to the belt with the same over hang of the roller either side of the belt. I then ride it for a good distance & the last 200mts dead straight before I stop. Check the belt, & find the belt tight up against the rear sprocket flange, & tight up against the outer or inner flange on the front sprocket. I kid you not, the clearance was adjusted & checked at least 50-60 times. I don't give up easily & persisted TILL IT ALMOST DID MY HEAD IN.
I finally came to my senses & removed both dampers. I've found once these belts have been run out of alignment for some distance, they are very difficult to get back into line. After a lot of belt alignment procedures on both bikes, I finally have the belt clearances back to normal, with little vibration.
The dampers I purchased were NOT BRP.
MeudtPG
Member
How long and how many miles before this failure? Thanks
h0gr1der
New member
The picture shows it wasn't OEM, as it has a metal arm. There are several out there constructed like this. I made my mind to delete due to a situation like Treva above, but on top of it all I kept smelling burning rubber (the dampener was aligned properly with no damage to the belt), which went away when I pulled the dampener. Not speaking against dampeners, they are in my "Best Improvement for a Buck" category, but in my mind I figured why risk it?
AY4B
New member
It is a RR Damper Purchased in January of 2018 with 20,000 miles on it. It was one of the first things I bought for my new F3L. I did not hear any noise but my Spyder has a loud RLS exaust and I am an aggressive ryder that is hard of hearing. Doc is sending me another roller because it is still within the 2 year warranty. Also I was offered a Spider extras Damper at half price which I will get. I asked Doc what is the life of his roller supposed to be, hes said 25,000. I would recommend having it changed at 10,000-15,000 IMO.It looked like the barring froze up which caused the failure. I guess it can be taken apart and lubed but replacing it would be better or go without one. I did also have my front sprocket replace the first of this year due to red dust.
AY4B
New member
Looking back I had something happen that caused a bad vibration after Lamonsters Pie Run at Spyders in the Ozarks. I have felt minor vibration since and was wondering where it was coming from. I also noticed my missing belt guard is broken, probably from the pieces flying off the damper. I need to go back in to remove whats left.
LifeLongRider
New member
Good information :thumbup: When you removed the left rear footrest support bracket and jacked the rear end up to remove the lower shock bolt was there any misalignment of the bolt holes getting it reassembled?
Attachments
AY4B
New member
There are 3 bolts on the inside, 2 of which are used to mount the belt damper and one on the side. The 2 frame pipes do move around some and the lower one needs a little play to get it out. Putting it back together is not hard. There's one more smaller bolt that has a nut on the back side you need to remove as well.
AY4B
New member
The shock bolt needs to be aligned using the jack. Just play with the jack up and down to take the weight off the bolt or align it. Not hard. Once it’s out just jack it up a little more till your belt loosens up enough to slide it off. Same procedure as when you remove the wheel. You just don’t need to mess with the wheel or belt adjustment bolts.
That roller mounting bolt looks like it's loose. Did you find it that way on inspection? If so, that's the problem.
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