Belt Tensioner noise...

[Bob Denman]

Dan,
How many miles do you have on the bike now?
I've never heard a bearing go bad: they usually just go "crunch", and things stop spinning for me! :gaah:

 

[Firefly]

Dan,
How many miles do you have on the bike now?
I've never heard a bearing go bad: they usually just go "crunch", and things stop spinning for me! :gaah:

I've had the rear go before and it did make a noise, but not like this one. Sure hope it's not the front bearing, but that could explain the vibration/wobble I've been feeling. There were issues with early F3's front sprocket ( which I've told two dealers to check) and bearings going bad.

We will see.
It's a bit of a pain to take it to the dealer as I strip most accessories off... Corbin smuggler, Corbin Seat, GIVI bags, F4 shield, Doc tensioner, etc. I don't want them pointing any fingers at 3rd part accessories and also don't want them trying to remove and replace them since they didn't install them.

8,000 miles now on this Spyder. Still love it despite the issues.

 

[Wildrice]

yes, the BRP belt tensioner. Junk.

My--how the attitudes change--when it was 1st released it was God's gift to Spyder's--- It's the same ole story--never throw the victory celebration in the 1st inning:banghead:

Also put the roller on the lower belt--no make that the upper belt--but I do agree--a bearing beats a bushing--no contest
Darrell

 

[bscrive]

I took off the BRP tensioner on my wife's F3. I don't know why people are saying that it is a bushing. It is a 6mm x 17mm x 6mm bearing in there. Probably a cheap Chinese bearing and the reason why they are failing. I am just going to replace it with a SKF bearing of better quality. It is a 2 minute job to change the bearing once you have the roller off. You don't even need to take the tensioner off. Cost for the high quality SKF 6x17x6 bearing is only $10. You could fit two side by side if you get a longer 6mm bolt. I may try that as well. There is nothing wrong with the rest of the tensioner.

Yes Doc, you can put me on your ignore list like you did Road-kill. Anyone who puts someone on their ignore list for such a silly reason is not someone I would do business with anyways. I am sure you lost other business with that comment as well.

 

[Rattlebars]

Firefly, I have listened to that video a couple of times and it really sounds like a bad bearing to me. Don't know if it is the one under the front cog, or if it the rear wheel. Maybe both? It kind of sounds like two different sounds at the same time.
Let us know what the dealer says. My wife owns a F3 as well.

Ditto. Sounds like the bearings on my avalanche which would require fixing every 30K or so.

 

[PW2013STL]

I took off the BRP tensioner on my wife's F3. I don't know why people are saying that it is a bushing. It is a 6mm x 17mm x 6mm bearing in there. Probably a cheap Chinese bearing and the reason why they are failing. I am just going to replace it with a SKF bearing of better quality. It is a 2 minute job to change the bearing once you have the roller off. You don't even need to take the tensioner off. Cost for the high quality SKF 6x17x6 bearing is only $10. You could fit two side by side if you get a longer 6mm bolt. I may try that as well. There is nothing wrong with the rest of the tensioner.

Yes Doc, you can put me on your ignore list like you did Road-kill. Anyone who puts someone on their ignore list for such a silly reason is not someone I would do business with anyways. I am sure you lost other business with that comment as well.

BTW,

The bearing in mine is a SKF #60601. I was unable to find that bearing number. I went to a bearing house and when I told him the bearing number he said that's not a good number. I had the roller with the bearing still in it so he checked it out and said "that is the part number, but it's not in their data base"
Since I also agree that the issue is the single small bearing used. I am looking at putting two larger bearings in the BRP roller. I am waiting to hear back from our machine shop if they can make the changes that I designed to the roller. If they can I will post the information.

Les

 

[irvin48]

American ingenuity in action. keep us posted on the progress. opcorn:

 

[bscrive]

BTW,

The bearing in mine is a SKF #60601. I was unable to find that bearing number. I went to a bearing house and when I told him the bearing number he said that's not a good number. I had the roller with the bearing still in it so he checked it out and said "that is the part number, but it's not in their data base"
Since I also agree that the issue is the single small bearing used. I am looking at putting two larger bearings in the BRP roller. I am waiting to hear back from our machine shop if they can make the changes that I designed to the roller. If they can I will post the information.

Les

You can get a SKF 6x19x6 bearing.

I am thinking of doing this as well if I can get a machine shop to cut out the roller. then you can put in 2 or 3 bearing in.

 

[Road-Kill]

American ingenuity in action. keep us posted on the progress. opcorn:

Damn! you beat me to posting that comment. I'm dying to find out the results. Now I have to investigate bearings and bushings.

 

[sandman53]

Tensioner

My bearing is shot in my BRP tensioner. Its just sitting on my work bench waiting to be fixed. Please keep me informed!

 

[Firefly]

My bearing is shot in my BRP tensioner. Its just sitting on my work bench waiting to be fixed. Please keep me informed!

The kit by Doc is a solid option to consider....

 

[Firefly]

My--how the attitudes change--when it was 1st released it was God's gift to Spyder's--- It's the same ole story--never throw the victory celebration in the 1st inning:banghead:

Also put the roller on the lower belt--no make that the upper belt--but I do agree--a bearing beats a bushing--no contest
Darrell

The device worked well and helped with the vibration issue... thus why it received great reviews. Those are honest and accurate reviews. Now with thousands of miles on them many are finding out that they are not built well and can fail. Those are also honest and accurate reviews. Doc's upgrade kit seems to solve the longevity issues thus far, but should it also fail then you will see honest and accurate reviews to that point.

That is how science works. Reviews and opinions change when new data (long term use in this case) is available.

This has nothing to do with 'attutidues', but with facts.

Prime example.... I felt my noise issue was due to the tensioner. After further testing this was found NOT to be the case... so the thread was properly updated.

The tensioner idea is a solid one and does make a difference. So does overall belt tension and alignment.

 

[Michaelscs]

BTW,

Since I also agree that the issue is the single small bearing used. I am looking at putting two larger bearings in the BRP roller. I am waiting to hear back from our machine shop if they can make the changes that I designed to the roller. If they can I will post the information.

Les

So, I had the same thought and have already done the 2 bearing upgrade.
Sorry, no pictures, but this is what we did:
We used 626 bearings - 6x19x6mm
We turned the roller end for end on how it's mounted on the BRP arm. (the stock bearing is recessed from the side away from the arm)
We machined that recessed hole to accept the 19mm bearing.
We then machined the other side of the roller (now the outside), just deep enough to accept the other bearing.
We machined a aluminum spacer to fit between the inner race of the 2 bearings.
We milled off about 1/8" of the arm where the bolt goes through to keep the roller the same distance from the arm.
We used a little longer bolt to bolt it all together. It doesn't matter if the bolt and nut stick out on the outside of the roller(it won't hit anything)

I hope that's clear as mud. Anyway, the new 2 bearing set-up works great! The roller is as solid as a rock.

 

[Road-Kill]

So, I had the same thought and have already done the 2 bearing upgrade.
Sorry, no pictures, but this is what we did:
We used 626 bearings - 6x19x6mm
We turned the roller end for end on how it's mounted on the BRP arm. (the stock bearing is recessed from the side away from the arm)
We machined that recessed hole to accept the 19mm bearing.
We then machined the other side of the roller (now the outside), just deep enough to accept the other bearing.
We machined a aluminum spacer to fit between the inner race of the 2 bearings.
We milled off about 1/8" of the arm where the bolt goes through to keep the roller the same distance from the arm.
We used a little longer bolt to bolt it all together. It doesn't matter if the bolt and nut stick out on the outside of the roller(it won't hit anything)

I hope that's clear as mud. Anyway, the new 2 bearing set-up works great! The roller is as solid as a rock.

This is one of those posts that has me in a twist. Now I have to attempt the same thing. A big thanks.

 

[PW2013STL]

So, I had the same thought and have already done the 2 bearing upgrade.
Sorry, no pictures, but this is what we did:
We used 626 bearings - 6x19x6mm
We turned the roller end for end on how it's mounted on the BRP arm. (the stock bearing is recessed from the side away from the arm)
We machined that recessed hole to accept the 19mm bearing.
We then machined the other side of the roller (now the outside), just deep enough to accept the other bearing.
We machined a aluminum spacer to fit between the inner race of the 2 bearings.
We milled off about 1/8" of the arm where the bolt goes through to keep the roller the same distance from the arm.
We used a little longer bolt to bolt it all together. It doesn't matter if the bolt and nut stick out on the outside of the roller(it won't hit anything)

I hope that's clear as mud. Anyway, the new 2 bearing set-up works great! The roller is as solid as a rock.

Mike,

That's along the same lines as I am doing. I am using 9.5x19mm bearings(I did not mic the thickness) other wise the same setup as yours.

Les

 

[bscrive]

If you are using a larger bearing, just make sure that the 'limiting speed' is the same, or close as the original, or you may have issues. Larger bearings can have a much lower speed than a smaller one.

 

[Wildrice]

That is how science works. Reviews and opinions change when new data (long term use in this case) is available.

This has nothing to do with 'attutidues', but with facts. The tensioner idea is a solid one and does make a difference. So

does overall belt tension and alignment.[/QUOTE]

If BRP used a touch more Science---there won't be a vibration problem---there have been more than a fair share of vibration complaints on this problem--it has affected the attitude of a multitude-- F3 Spyder owners--they never questioned science :shocked::bdh:

 

[Firefly]

:trike::duh:

 

[Wildrice]

:trike::duh:

Initially I had Bakers roller set--then just one upper roller, also at the time SmoothSpyder had the belt roller, Doc Humphrey had the belt roller. & then in 4th place bringing the belt tension roller to market was BRP & most everyone was so grateful for the BRP tension roller. Personally I didn't feel a difference. Lowering my "on the ground" belt tension to Krikit 125lbs did make a substantial improvement. I also have a gel insert seat, vibration pads on the footrest & the foam slip-ons on the handlebar grips. They all helped reduce the source of the vibration which is cause via BRP's 1330 engine---either the engine has a balance problem or lacks sufficient motor mounts. A long long time ago in a far off & very different land called "Wisconsin" I received an "Associate in Applied Science Degree in Automotive Technology" from the Milwaukee Institute of Technology. While many things have changed--the basic concepts have remained the same.
But I do appreciate the review of your Science lesson. God Bless.
Darrell

 

[Firefly]